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Lightweight Suspension Options for 2nd gen Fbody?
Hey guys,
Starting my 72 Camaro build, and pretty ignorant with domestic suspension companies, other than making my own QA1 stuff. Does anyone make Aluminum spindles or control arms or subframes or anything for these? Or even lighter steel/chromoly? I'm redoing the suspension anyways, so was wondering if I could shave some wieght. Also does anyone have a budget friendly reccomendation for a rear end? I know someone is going to probably get their panties in a wad over this, but the best idea I've got so far is modify an Explorer rear end, they're cheap, strong, and have discs which saves some cash too.. Extremely open to ideas from more knowledgable people. |
Blake at Speed Tech has AFX spindles coming and I'd go 69 Cougar 9 inch for the rear.
Lightweight and budget are seldom used in the same conversation but a little here a little there will make a difference. Vince |
best bet would probably be to call speedtech. I think I read somewhere that there front frame is lighter than oem. They also are making the aluminum spindles so you might be able to get everything from them. as far as rear suspension if you went with a G-link or something similar it would be lighter than the leaf's with the right setup.
nothing wrong with the explorer rear axle. it's strong and has disc brakes. not sure how much stronger it would be than the 10 bolt but it'll work. another option would be to just build up the 10 bolt a bit and get a LS disc brake setup from a camaro or ta. |
If youre going to go with an aftermarket subframe DSE is the way to go. The stock setup is pretty close to optimal though, and I would keep the stock subframe, and get hotchkis springs front and rear, and either hotchkis or pro touring f body control arms upper and lower. If youre doing brakes on a budget Kore 3 has very reasonably priced C5 and C6 setups. The stock 10 bolt can handle a lot of power if built right, just stuff good axles and weld the tubes.
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My 10 bolt is missing some pieces, and Exploder rearends are pretty cheap.
Was going to make control arms, and my own coilovers using QA1 stuff, but wanted to see what was out there too. What are "AFX" and "DSE"? Not very familiar with brands on this stuff. |
Bill Howell might have some left over light weight control arms he is no longer using. :-)
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[QUOTE=
What are "AFX" and "DSE"? Not very familiar with brands on this stuff.[/QUOTE] AFX is the spindle from Speedtech formerly made by ATS. AFX= A-body (chevelle) F-body (camaro) and X-body (nova). DSE = detroit speed and engineering (www.detroitspeed.com) Speedtech and DSE are both top notch for sure, but in terms of budget, not so much. youre getting what you pay for though. |
I am building my own sub frame for a 2nd. gen that will uses light wt.# alum. c6 componets.I will post some photo's in a day or two. I like the 8.8 rears if you are on a budget.Use 2 short axles and you can center the pinion.Done it for a few customers.Good luck.
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I would keep your 10 bolt. All second gens except the 70 came with the 8.5" rear end which is almost as strong as a 12 bolt. You can put an Eaton True trac and axles in it and never have to worry about the rear.
Also, you can literally bolt-on a set of disc brakes from a late model 4th gen F-Body (93-02 Camaro and Firebird) for practically nothing. You can get them at the salvage yards and swap meets for about $100 and be able to buy replacement pads and rotors at any parts store. |
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I did not know that you could bolt-on the 4th gen stuff. Thats a huge win since we'll be using c4 front spindles, so we can have OEM GM stuff all the way around.
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Glad to pass on what I have learned on my own projects. I had a set of factory brakes left over from my 4th gen after doing a Wilwood drag race setup. When I was upgrading the axles and posi in my 2nd gen, I decided to check just for the hell of it and see what it would take to get the 4th gen brakes on there. To my surprise they bolted right up!
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No way! Well that 100% solves that problem, thanks for passing that tip along as that is totally awesome!
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AFX spindles and SPC lightweight arms.... the AFX accepts C5 brakes so you can install good used brakes for cheap up front too....
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I'd love to be told that I'm wrong and that a 2nd gen ATS spindle is coming, but I don't recall ever conclusively seeing that one is. So my previous comment wasn't intended sarcastically if it came off that way, I sincerely would like to know if it's available. :yes: Thanx! |
I have them on my car...
and yes its a second gen. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC00850.jpg |
Something may have changed but they were available.
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Budget Suspensions can work very well...
The Hotchkis TVS kit is a no brainer IMHO! Pro-TouringF-Body also has an EXCELLENT budget setup that is great if you're looking to stick with leaf springs and stock control arms. http://pro-touringf-body.com/ I'd highly recommend something along these lines if you can swing it! Nothing like a kit that's already been scienced out for you!
... if not... you can do a little at a time to get there on a budget... a PST front end rebuild kit to get that squared away... get some 550ppi front springs (HO Racing or Hotchis)... getting a 1 3/8" sway bar vs 1.25" = 36% more stiffness and then with some good tires (BFG KD) you're better than 90% of the OEM cars on the road. For that killer/low stance on a budget you'll have to cut your new springs and use a lowering block or get some dearched rear springs... New springs can lower your front 1-1.5" and stock sagged rear springs worked well on my car though... cutting stock springs that low is just asking for trouble IMHO! The actual/intended usage of the car will dictate the suspension settings...for "hot street" 1/2 deg neg camber and 4-6 deg pos caster with 1/16" toe in will get you the feel you want. For brakes, you can get it to stop in 130-140 ft for $400... but if want under 120 ft stops it will take some bucks! Swap on a set of 12" B-Body brakes from the bone yard, install an adjustable proportioning valve, get a set of more agressive pads from Wilwood or Brute Stops from Raybestos. The 12" brake upgrade is an easy and inexpensive swap using factory components but it's not 13+ rotors with sexy calipers ... Checkout www.scarebird.com for rear disc brake options or swap in a WS6 complete rear with discs... or the 4th gen stuff as Brett has already mentioned. Budget shocks = Classic Red Konis will ride better AND corner better than KYBs but only by a little... Budget option #1 for second gen 1 1/4" front bar front springs 700-740 lb/in (1985 diesel S-10s drop in), stock rear springs and a 5/8" rear bar. Bigger rear bar will pick up the inside rear wheel on a tight hard turn or a really angled driveway. Bilsteins or Konis all around. Solid bushings. Budget option #2 540-560 ppi front spring with 1-3/8" front sway bar and a 7/8" rear bar which IS too big for road race but OK for slalom/autocross as it makes it easier to get around the cones(power induced oversteer). The combo of the 1-3/8" front bar and 560ppi springs will give a better road ride than the 770s with about the same combined roll stiffness. On a high speed road course, the 770s would probably be better. Solid or Poly bushings all around and you can take some bite out of the rear bar by using rubber mounts. Put in as much pos caster as feasable... 3-3.5 is pretty good without modifying the upper control arm. HTH :thumbsup: V/R, Ty :lateral: |
I've been poking around, and it seems just a custom Steel LCA and Aluminum UCA, C4 corvette spindles with some home-made nascar sway bars will find their way up front.
We'll probably engineer our own 3 link for the back, using 4th Gen brakes. Trying to increase steering angle, shave wieght, and allow big wheel/tire clearance with a super low stance is not yielding a lot of budget friendly options that do what we want. |
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