Shopping new brake Double Flaring tools
 

Well after having for 18 years or so my blue point double flare tool finally gave out so I'm looking around to see what's out there and I came accross this

http://store.fedhillusa.com/flaringtools.aspx

Anyone ever used this thing before? They claim perfect flares every time (of course!) It's not cheap at $325 but they have a little note for shops to call for wholesale pricing.

Take a look at MasterCool hydraulic flaring tool kit BEFORE you buy this one...


http://www.amazon.com/MasterCool-Uni.../dp/B00063YR2I

I was on the phone today with Jay in NH from Autobody Specialists talking about benders and flaring tools and he mentioned that mastercool kit too. We were talking stainless bending/flaring stuff mostly since I'm in love with it after doing this brake system in stainless I'll probably start doing my fuel systems in it as well.

Anyone using this Mastercool kit Greg has recommended or this other one I posted? The mastercool kit looks like it does a whole lot more for the the same price plus right under the link you posted you can get the 37* dies for a little bit more. Looks like a good package! :thumbsup:

One thing I learned about making up SS lines is, don't use a conventional tubing cutter, to cut the tubing. The cutting process work-hardens the material right at the point that you are going to try to create the flare.

Use an extra fine hacksaw blade (I have a 30/32 TPI blade just for this) and carefully make your cut that way, then use a disc sander to true up the end, being careful not to heat up the material. (A file can also be used if a disc sander isn't available) Then deburr the inner edge circumfrence, clean out the tubing, etc, then slide on your fittings / make your flare.

Before I figured this out I was having flares on stainless sometimes crack while trying to make them...drove me crazy until my Dad stepped in, LOL.

Some folks also will cut the tubing with an abrasive wheel, but I also found this heats up the stainless too much and hardens it as well.

Reason I mention this is, I was blaming my flaring tool for all of the problems I was having flaring SS...once I got this technique sorted...no more issues.

Also note that if you have some tubing and it's not annealed tubing, you will need to anneal it first before working with it.

Thanks for the tips!

Since this was my first foray into SS lines I did some reading on it and came across the "don't use a tubing cutter" tip. I used my air saw with a fine tooth blade and it worked great. I've always filed the ends when working with standard brake line so that wasn't anything new. Actually everything went really well- did the back half of the car today with all of the brake lines hidden. At the end of today I've realized that I didn't order enough tube nuts and sleeves so I'm reordering tonight to do the front of the car in a few days.

So far I actually like working with SS better than standard brake line. I love the look and I think it works better even when you need to do those fine tweaks that none of us ever have to do since our bending is perfect the first time. ;) On the next Non-UP car I do a fuel system on I'm going to use stainless. (The UP cars came with aluminum tubing and we go back with it since they are racecar-chic I think the stainless would look out of place.)

Jay gave me the list of benders he uses for his stainless fuel lines and some others on the market. Also told me about the copper washers/cones available to handle minor leaks on the SS due to seams.

I'll post pics when I'm done with the brake lines.

Good advice guys. I did all of the above, (I cut my tube on a band saw that I slowed way down) and used lubrication on the SS while flaring. I would then throw a plug on the end I just flared and stick it in a bucket of water. Stick the blow gun on the other end. No bubbles, no troubles!

Darren

Nobody have experience with either of these kits?

anybody have something better they are using?

I own this kit AND the 37* flare stuff as well.... as well as a needle bearing "rotary" style 37* flare tool as shown here (spelled EXPENSIVE):

http://www.newmantools.com/imperial/ft5.html

You can not go wrong with the Mastercool stuff... :cheers:

I also have a few benders and like this brand / style...

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/IMG_1018.jpg

greg the "some tools" in your signature needs to be replaced with "a **** load of tools". youve got so much and more....

btw, you can also buy the mastercool kit with just the 37* dies. i plan to use it on all of my brake and fuel lines, so no need to pay for the 45* stuff.

I've forgotten what many of them are for....


:rofl: :rofl:

Nice set of benders/tools. I used to do alot of tube bending on offshore platforms. I used the Imperial Eastman benders.

Whats the magnifing glass for?? lol

To find "it"....:rofl: :woot:

Greg did you really buy the Imperial 37* flare tool 400-F from newman tools?
You can get the same tool from aircraft spruce for $299 this is by far the cheapest I have found it as most places sell this tool for close to $400
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ringtools1.php

I just purchased this as my old 37* flare tool took a sh**

Money is no object.... :rofl:

I have this and the 37* "kit" for the MasterCool hydraulic set up I have...

Greg your a riot

Just a note Eastwood no longer recommends the Mastercool tool be used with stainless. Seems I wasnt the only one with Die issues.

I think I saw this on one of the other website listings on it as well. I'm going to order the Mastercool kit and the 37* dies today- its down to $308 on Amazon right now.

Never forget when shopping for tools just like these cars we build there is a difference between price and value. Spend a little more for a quality tool and it will last and make you more money in the long run!

FYI - the mastertool kit is also used by GM at all Canadian dealers (not sure about the US) as an essential tool, sold through Kent-Moore tools. I've used it many times and it's fantastic on the standard automotive stuff. I haven't had a chance to use it on SS.

Used the master cool for 37's still dont think it holds a candle to the the Ridgid 41162 that thing is spot on every time and is faster and easier to get lined up EVERYTIME.

I got the mastercool kit and have used it a few times now. It is definately akward when you first start using it. Double flares on standard brake lines have been perfect ever time. Just did some more aluminum fuel lines yesterday and after using the mastercool kit with the 37* dies I did find myself pulling out my imperial 37* tools as it just seemed faster and easier.

I'm obviously missing something (mentally) since I haven't been able to figure out the GM push connect flare. If I used the Silver die marked for GM Push connect with the short line holding die the tool does not have enough throw to compress the line. I use the GM push connect die with the tall line holding die push connect tool for the fuel line fittings the silver die isn't long enough to form the fuel line.

Does anyone know if the GM push connect flare is the same as an A/C line flare?

Ill give the mastercool set another vote. I bought the complete set, but have only used it to double flare stainless 3/16 and 1/4 brake line so far. Worked perfect the first time for me. No do overs.