ls7 dry sump plumbing help
 

Could really use some advice here, Im not sure if these fittings are to close to the header pipe. I really dont want to cut the tube, Im having Brown and Miller make up the lines after I mock them up and will have them install the heat shield sleveing down over the elbow if they can. But Im not sure if thats enough. Any other solutions or suggestions. Thanks Rich
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture014.jpg

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture013.jpg

What headers are you running & sub-frame??? I got to work on this in the next couple of weeks on a LS7 with DSE sub-frame & headers...

A few thoughts since I've been through hell and back with my car and AN fittings!

1. Can you route the fitting closest to the starter on the bottom side of the other fitting? That could be accomplished with your current fittings or an adapter fitting and different hose end.
2. Use an adapter fitting with a tigther radius. Male-Male adapter and straight hose end.
3. Will the headers be ceramic coated? I've got one about that close. I had no choice. I used heat sleeving and I sleep good at night. That being said, I'd look for an alternative first. Of course using all radius fittings.

This is what I am up against.. Can't start till my fitting finished getting machined.. I would also look @ XRP.. They have some nice stuff for dry sump oil systems

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMG_0534.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...ration/XRP.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...tion/XRP-2.jpg

Chris,
Im using a dse sub frame and dse headers. The thick alluminum plate just builds it out to far, at least for the dse pipes. Kind a wish gm just threaded the pan for a AN oring thread. Thanks for the info.

Todd - Thanks for the suggestions, Im staying with the SS would really like to have them coated but I got to cut cost, Im definitaly having B&M install the heat shield on the hoses. Im gonna check the dimensions of the fittings as well.

Thanks again Rich

Another option is to go to a -10 if the run isn't to long. That will defiintely get you the clearance you need. I planned to run -12 but it just wasn't in the cards. In fact my brand new GM performance block was tapped and cut for -10 orings. What diameter does GM run on stock LS7's?

hose ends
 

I have a DSE subframe and headers also. I got a pan adapter from schwartz perf and have Goodridge -12 150deg fittings. Will post pics tomo.

I think I got it figured out. I pulled the 12an male(1-1/16-12) thread to 12an flare fitting and if I have the hose crimped using the fitting in the pic l should pick up another 3/4 of an inch clearance. It swivels so it should do the job. Cant thank you guys enough, sometimes it takes a few extra eyes on it to start seeing the options.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture016.jpg

Rich

Perfect....

pics
 

Here is mine. Goodridge -12 150 deg. fittings and Schwartz Perf adapter.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...o/IMG_0753.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...o/IMG_0752.jpg
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A little off topic. But what pans are you guys using?

In the pics of this thread they are all stock gm ls7 oil pans.

Rich

Earls has some low profile hose ends that may be an option. Here is a link:

http://www.holley.com/AT809012ERL.asp

Mike Norris

And they all clear the DSE subframe?

By design, SB/BB/LS7/other LS wet sump engines using a champ or autokraft oil pan. check out there site for details www.detroitspeed.com

Rich

Too restrictive.

I was wondering about that after I posted. I think it would work well for fuel or water, but possibly not for the higher viscosity oils.

Lots of room for my fittings... but I heavily modified my Kooks headers.

https://lateral-g.net/g69/motor/0099.jpg

Scott how how have you plummed it from that on towards tank and breather can? I have ages old ATS / petersen tanks and have lost all instructions - if i ever got any:lol:

With petersen tank in is off course bottom of the tank and return from the the top. But how about breather tubes from valve covers? Or are the really needed?

I modified my tank so it would have 4 -12 fittings on the top, then I ran a -12 line from each valve cover to oil tank, a -12 return from the pan to the tank, and a -12 line from the oil tank to the catch can/breather. I modified the stock valve covers by welding a -12 male bung into the fake oil cap and pulling the stock breather tube out and drilling the valve cover and welding another -12 male bung in. The more venting you have on the top of the engine the better the chances are you will maintain a good ring seal.
I plumbed my pan differently than posted above, I used a full flow 90* swivel in one hole like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-612270 and a straight fitting like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-670730/overview/ then used a 90* hose fitting, this put a stagger in the fittings in the pan so the hoses could come straight forward and stack on top of each other, be sure to use full flow radiused fittings so you don't restrict the flow.