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1968 Sport Satellite build
It's in the test fit/mock up stage.
'68 Sport Satellite convertable. 6.1L Hemi, AlterKtion, Air Ride, 13" Baer discs, Vintage Air... http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat001.jpg 6.1L Hemi http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat002.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat004.jpg EZ Wiring harness http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat005.jpg Vintage Air Gen IV http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat006.jpg Hot Wires EFI harness http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat007.jpg underneath http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat008.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat009.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat010.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat011.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat012.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat013.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat014.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/hemisat015.jpg |
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Very nice. Should be a great build. Keep us posted please.:thumbsup: :cheers:
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It looks like the front Alterkation K-member is the older welded style instead of mandrel bent? Is this a finished build or on going?
Nice project! Wes |
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looking forward to the progress. lots of pictures!!!!!!!!!
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Awsome project.:thumbsup: Can't wait to see more.Nice color choice.
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Nice build.
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I like:thumbsup: ,what are the specs on wheels/tires?
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for now they are just stock take off late model charger/300 17"steel wheels and tires. They might get run for a while as is with chrome lug nuts.
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are you using charger brakes? what headers do you have and what oil pan? im doing the same thing on a 69 roadrunner. what computer are you using?
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I had to make some clearance for the rear output sensor for the 5 speed auto trans from a late model Ram.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hemi-001.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hemi-002.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hemi-003.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hemi-004.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hemi-005.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hemi-006.jpg This recess in the firewall was originally to clear the intake on a 5.7. The 6.1 manifold is different so there is plenty of clearance. I'm going to run the engine harness through a hole in the recess. I may also run the heater hoses through there too. http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hemi-007.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hemi-008.jpg |
looking good keep it coming
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I mounted the cooling module from the late model charger. I still have to fab 2 brackets to support it at the rubber mounts on the bottom of the radiator.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/satrad.jpg Assembled the sure grip with new gears and gave it coat of paint. http://www.bigblockdakota.com/satdif.jpg Finished welding the brackets and drain plug into the axle housing, painted it and installed new bearings on the axles after i blasted the axle flanges. http://www.bigblockdakota.com/satrear.jpg |
The EFI wire harness will go through this hole in the fire wall. I need to find a 2.5" grommet for it. This will be mostly hidden by the intake manifold.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/floorpan003.jpg Fitting the auto 5 speed required that the tunnel be modified a bit, and some of it happened after paint. The hammering lead to some creases and I didn't like how it looked, even though it will be almost impossible to see after the trans is in place and the undercoating is sprayed. I cut out a creased and wrinkled spot and smoothed things out a little. http://www.bigblockdakota.com/floorpan004.jpg The entire center section of the torsion bar crossmember had been removed by the body shop before paint. The left just the sheet metal of the tunnel which I felt was insufficient. At this spot, nothing can be below the sheet metal of the floor due to clearance. I'm going to build a boxed reinforcement above the floor. It won't be noticeble after the center console and carpet are installed. http://www.bigblockdakota.com/floorpan005.jpg I started by cutting out a 2" slot in the floor. I'll be using 1/8" plate to replace it and to build the boxed section. http://www.bigblockdakota.com/floorpan002.jpg Here's the top and bottom plates for the box. I still need to make the side plates. http://www.bigblockdakota.com/floorpan008.jpg I finished the rear axle assembly and the rear brakes and reinstalled all of it. http://www.bigblockdakota.com/floorpan006.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/floorpan007.jpg |
It looks great, nice work.
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i like the way you are thinking things out alot of people just slap sh** together without any thought to fit form or function
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I have to really think through everything I am doing on this because of the paint being done already. Another issue is that nothing is 100% set in stone, but that is good since it allows me to come up with a solution that makes sense. At thsi point, I still have no idea what the interior is going to look like or what gauges/switches it will have, but I'm ok with that. Mounting the HVAC box is going to be interesting , but I think I have it figured out.
I'm not doing the interior, but I did come up with an idea that the owner likes. I suggested making a long oversized center console that goes all the way to where the package tray would be. This would divide the rear seat into 2 buckets sort of like a first generation Charger. The console can then contain amps and speakers and have a some storage too. It will also provide a pathway for extra wiring and air ride lines if needed. This way with the top down at a highway speed you can still hear the tunes. I know it's been done a bunch on other builds and figured it would work well here. |
Awesome job.nice color choice.:thumbsup:
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Very nice build, doing a B-body is easy, try doing all the same stuff to an early A :)
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Thanks. The car itself wouldn't make any difference in difficulty to me. Working around the paint being already finished is a bit of a pain though . :cheers:
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These are the brackets I made to fit the lower radiator mount cushions on the stock SRT8 Charger radiator that is being used. They bolt to the radiator support. The a/c condensor from the Charger will be mounted on the front of the radiator support.
http://www.bigblockdakota.com/xmem003.jpg the reworked torsion bar crossmember is made out of 1/8" steel on all 4 sides & fully welded. The torsion bars are not being used of course. http://www.bigblockdakota.com/xmem001.jpg With one 2 gallon pail of Lizard Skin sound deadener, I was able to spray the entire top side of the floor pan, rear wheel wells & firewall, inside both doors and both 1/4 panels as well as the bottom of the floor pan between the sub-frame rails from the fire wall/floor pan seam to just in front of the rear axle and the area above the fuel tank. http://www.bigblockdakota.com/lizardskin001.jpg http://www.bigblockdakota.com/lizardskin002.jpg next is a coat of Lizard Skin heat insulator |
It looks great. I would like to use the heat insulation on my interior before I put the dynamat down. That came out nice.
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how is this coming along?:question:
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I've done a little here and there as I've had some time. I've done some fitting of the stainless steel gas tank and worked on making the support straps. Not too much else though.
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thats too bad. sounds like your stretched a little thin
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I finished making the stainless straps for the stainless tank and also started running the fuel line from the filter/regulator to the front of the car.
http://www.hemiswap.com/fueltank004.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/fueltank006.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/fueltank007.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/fueltank008.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/fueltank009.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/fueltank010.jpg |
A while back I had the brake booster rebuilt. It's just bolted in place loosely for now.
http://www.hemiswap.com/brakeboost003.jpg |
now your pickin' uo steam keep rollin'
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I had some time available this past weekend. I got the heim joints for the rear upper air ride shocks a few weeks ago. now they won't bind and split the bushings.
http://www.hemiswap.com/wave01.JPG started working on installing the Wilwood proportioning valve. The stainless line are tough to double flare. http://www.hemiswap.com/prop01.JPG |
last weekend I bent up some cunifer brake line for the front end and measured for hoses. Messed with the hoses today to check for clearance and fit. It's looking good, lock to lock and full retracted and extended suspension.
Now I need to get a rivet nut setting tool so i can fab and attach brackets. right lock, extended http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hose001.jpg left lock extended http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hose002.jpg left lock compressed http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hose003.jpg right lock compressed http://www.bigblockdakota.com/hose004.jpg |
The stainless steel gas tank did not fit flush to the floor pan and the filler neck would not line up with the hole in the rear body panel. :rolleyes: The main problem is that there was no notch for the trunk pan reinforcement rib. I cut a notch. That got the holes much closer to being aligned and the tank will now sit flush against the trunk pan. I may need to cut out the filler hole and move it up some too. I've never welded stainless before so this is an adventure. I also never cut up a $600 gas tank before either :_paranoid
http://www.hemiswap.com/gas01.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/gas02.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/gas03.jpg http://www.hemiswap.com/gas04.jpg |
check with Greg Weld before you start. He gives great pointers. Like leave an open hole and drop a few pieces of dry ice inside the tank.
BTW is that a Ricks tank? Great looking project!! |
I don't recall where the tank came from, but they didn't take into account why the factory tank has a recess in that spot. It's a similar situation to the bushings in the rear shocks splitting just from the suspension being cycled by the lift going up and down.
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The ac condenser, trans cooler and radiator support got painted flat black. The radiator core will also be painted flat black to match.
http://www.hemiswap.com/radsup01.JPG http://www.hemiswap.com/radsup02.JPG http://www.hemiswap.com/radsup03.JPG http://www.hemiswap.com/radsup04.JPG |
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