Gap problems
 

I am working on a 69 camaro convertible. I am trying to line up the seams on the drivers side door. When the door is closed it touches the rear quarter panel (no gap). Its not overlapping, but it is touching. The front seam of the door is a little less than 1/2". I am also having an issue with the drivers side connection between the radiator support and fender. I can get it to fit, but it takes a little muscle. For the door it seems logical to move it forward until the front and rear seams are correct, however the door hinges prevent me from moving the door forward anymore. My two questions are....Can I manipulate the door hinges to move the door forward 3/16"? & Should all these body parts fit with ease, or is it common to use a little muscle to get them into place?

Pictures would help!

Has the car been wrecked pretty hard at one point in it's life? have you checked the rockers and floors? It almost sounds as if the car buckled under it's own weight.

How are the gaps between the bottoms of doors and the rockers? I would make sure the car's body and subframe is square before rigging anything up with sheetmetal

I will work on pictures... As for the car it has been in miner accidents. The gap along the rocker panel is large but square to the rocker, and the top of the door lines up with the top of the quarter panel. If it is due to a previous accident... what are my options? Is there a type of hydaulic ram to I could put in place of the door that will spread that section ?

Have you x measured the car to check for square? There are factory holes in the rad support and the cowl which you can reference. Have the door hinges holes been hogged out or are the hinges not tight?

I have x measured from the subframe not the radiator support. It was right on. Hinges are brand new. I got new hinges thinking the old ones were causing the problems.

First make sure the car is on level ground,then measure and check for squaresness subframe,rad support and unibody,you'll need extra set of hands and a tram gauge would be preferred .Also check the height of each frame rail and both rockers,not just at the ends ,but along full length.

Once you made sure the body and subframe is straight,check the hinges,if they have no play, try to adjust them, you may need to open up the bolt holes on hinges , keep weatherstrip on doors when adjusting gaps,it helps for better final fitment.

Once the doors are lined up with quarters and rockers,hang fenders and get them fitted with door's front edge ,you may need to bump,tweak the fender,add some shims maybe open up the bolt holes ,I would try to avoid later two if possible for cleaner look.

Good luck

EDIT: You have new hinges installed, that would be a start.

How are the floors? Is the car pretty solid or floors,cowl,e.t.c. had some rust issues?

I had a hell of a time getting mine to line up. I think I had to loosen the rad support and move that forward a bit, then the door came forward. You might need to work your hinges a little to get your door forward, thats cool. you gotta do what you gotta do. Keep at it and you will get it. It's worth it in the end.

make sure the body is level with no twist and preferably has the motor in it. If not, gapping a convertible camaro will drive you nuts. Start with the doors and work foward

Got it....... Before the car was dismantled, I noticed the same gap problem with the door. Today I found the old rusted fender I took off, I can see there was damage to it. So it has been hit on the drivers side front fender. When we got the car it was completely rusted out. Every piece of sheetmetal has been replaced except for the rockers, windshield frame, and the quarter panel supports. The quarter panels and tail pan went together without any problems. As for the floors and tunnel, we have made our own and tacked into place for now. I would imagine a body shop would be willing to come out and bring a tram gauge right? If it is determined that the front drivers side collision has caused my issues with the door seams...What next? Will they be able to open the space between my quarters and fenders with some kind of hydraulic ram so the door will fit better?

Thanks for the replies everyone....I will keep you posted, and get some bigger pic's....Thanks again!

I'd use a porta-power as my last resort ,because it can cause more damage and try to get the body on a frame rack, clamp it down and pull door posts/hinge pillars forward.But if getting in on frame rack is not an option,use porta-power,just be very careful and check everything after each pump.Using wood blocks wrapped in a rag helps cutting down on damage

Thanks.... I know there is a big concern with damage using a porta-power. The good thing is that I have not welded the bottom of the firewall and the floor is not welded, just tacked in. If I did need to move the drivers side portion of the firewall forward 1/4", do you think I would be tearing the joint between the side cowl and the start of the rocker?

Non OEM panels? If so they simply do not fit without reworking. Camaro's also had bad fender to door gaps from factory.

Get car on suspension. Then pull nose loose. Adjust doors to 1/4's first. Hinge bolts on body adjust front to rear and up and down. Use a paint stick as a guide. Then adjust in and out with door side bolt. Pull fenders back into place.

If they are not factory there is no way you aren't going to need some adjustment at the fender to door fronts. Also remember "EVERY" bolt has to be tight not finger tight. Every piece on that nose will effect fitment.

I would do some basic measurements before I took a ram to that door jamb. I have a 69 and can get you a rough measurement if needed. Put the ram down and try some adjustments first. Subframe squared and tightened down?

Yes .....I definetly do not want to use the ram ....

test picture

The 1st thing I would do is remove the inner kick panel so you can see the hinge plate that the bolts go to and the bracket that keeps it there. You will see if you can move the hinge forward and if it is rusted or you can see how far you need to move the cage for the plate. It can be fixed by oblonging the holes some if there is enough movement in the caged plate.

Did you put new door skins on? You could have shifted the location of the hinge by up to 3/16 without knowing it if you didn't do them on the car and match them to the qtr.

You should be able to move the door foward and have it all work out but you will have to correct the placement of the door 1st.