Speed Tech / Stainless Works header porn!!!!
 

These just showed up this morning. They are amazing. I'm really glad I decided to go with the polished ones. They will look sweet. These are the LSx ones for the Speed Tech subframe. They will also work with stock subframes and they have them for SBC and BBC. http://www.speedtechperformance.com/...cat/cat230.htm One question for you guys though....I'm putting them on a new L92. Am I okay to run these when I first get the motor going. I've read before that you should not run polished headers for breaking in rebuilt motors as it will turn them blue. Not sure if that's the same with crate motors. Thanks and enjoy the pics.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000715.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000729.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000716.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000724.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000730.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000728.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000734.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000736.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000738.jpg

I thought it was said not to run ceramic coated headers, but I think that was to break in a new cam. Dont think it will apply with your LS...

Looks good

They look killer. :thumbsup:

My motor had 50k miles on it and they still turned blue. Jason Huber told me to use oven cleaner to clean them, but I've never bothered.

See if you can find some beater headers (junk yard etc) if you are starting up a motor for the first time. They tend to run really rough and hot for the 1st 20minutes or so of run time. That's what I ended up doing, otherwise you risk discoloring or damaging any ceramic coating.

They are polished, not coated.

It's always a good idea to have a large fan blowing into the front of the car to help keep things cool during initial startup. Wiping down the headers with alcohol and a clean cloth just before startup will also help keep the tubes clean.

Thanks for all the comments guys. I'm really happy with them. I see that Stainless Works sell a compound that will take off the blue. As long as that works, I'll be happy.

I got them installed today. If you want to see more pics, check out my build thread. If you've ever needed a reason to do a LS swap, try installing a set of headers and you'll be sold. I didn't swear, throw a tool or smack my hand once. They go on so much nicer than small block headers.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000783.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000782.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000750.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000753.jpg

If you're wondering how they sit in comparison to the subframe, they hang down just a bit

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1000768.jpg

Very nice.:thumbsup:

Awesome man. :thumbsup:

They do look great. and like Mike said the LS and BB headers also fit a stock subframe with the rack conversion. and they all tuck up as high as possible in the subframe.

Beautiful! I had ss pipes on a motorcycle and they blued when the jetting was a bit lean. There is/was a product called something like blue-a-way (sp) that helped remove. I would take a scotchbrite pad and polish it away. When jetted well, the pipes were a golden hue.

anyone have a pic of pipes that turned blue?

Maybe I'm a little odd in this regard, but I love the blue and golden colors stainless headers get over time. :)

There's a product in the Harley world that you put on the inside of the tubes and is supposed to prevent the blueing but I don't first hand know how well it works. There are two, from the company that makes Kreem Gas Tank liner, called Dyno Kote and Blue Shield.

Another 'ol school trick is to coat the inside of the header pipe with grease or a film of oil before first starting. It will smoke a lot but not hurt anything and as the grease or oil burns off a carbon layer forms on the inside of the tube insulating enough to prevent the blueing.

I haven't tried either of these personally, they're just things I've heard about that might work.

I have a set of Stainless Works Pollished headers on my 68 Camaro 502 w/3" ss pipes they are a very well built product.

one thing you MUST DO!!! is wipe the tubes with rubbing alcohol prior to starting the motor to remove any finger prints, if you dont they will burn into the pipe and you will never get them out.
Stainless works sells a product
http://www.stainlessworks.net/cart/p...oducts_id=1305

Do they hang down lower than the oilpan?

Thanks for the tip Blake. I will definitely do that.

I will check that the next time I'm out in the shop. I hope to head out on Thursday as it's a day off. I'm going to say yes though. If you look at the last pic that is posted that shows how they hand down below the frame, off to the right is the oil pan and it does look like they hang a bit lower.

OK the reason I was asking is the GM muscle car oil pan is 2.75 inches taller than a normal fbody or autocraft pan. I was thinking of getting that pan since its under 150$. I was worried the pan would hit the ground but if the headers hang down 2" lower then the stock pan then everything should be fine and dandy if I get the GM muscle car pan.

YES that pan will be to low it will hang down 2" lower than the headers, do the autocraft pan and be done with it

Thanks blake I ordered the autocraft pan. When are you going to make a 1 7/8 header or 2"?