Black/Anodized Parts Question
 

I am considering ordering the black door handles from Fesler but I'm wondering if anyone out there has ideas for black key hole locks and window trim? I considered sending mine out to be anodized but I'm afraid it won't come out BLACK like it should be. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Ya, that car is murdered out enough..:D

So leave the factory look on the door handles, key holes & trim for some accent :question:

Chris,
Go with Ring Brothers 2-tone black and powdercoat your key locks flat black. The main body of RB handles are polished then anodized and the trim piece is shot-peened then anodized and looks flat. The flat finish resembles flat black powdercoating. :thumbsup:
Oh... and the key locks are stainless. If you anodized them they will never look the same as anodized aluminum. The color will be way off.

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/IMG_0563.jpg

The Trim arround the windows can not be Anodized as it is Stainless, and only Aluminum can be anodized, on the Black 69 we did a few years ago we Black Chromed the trim and it looked KILLER hahah not cheep

Ano Specs!
 

Here are some specs that will help you out.. I used to do a lot of outside process for anodizing aluminum..

If you want anodizing with a gloss look.. Parts will need to be polished before sending out to anodizing..

Anodize per AMS-A-8625, Type II, class 2, black- specify material example- 6061-T6 very important that Anodizing house knows the material

This one will give you the titanium look..

Anodize per AMS-A-8625, Type III, Class I, clear(non dyed)- specify material example- 6061-T6 very important that Anodizing house knows the material


Tumbling all aluminum pcs before sending out to anodize is also very important to the finish..

Note: most anodizing houses charge you lot charge for the process.. So.. if you send out 1 or 5.. it will be charged as a lot..

Thanks guys for all the input! :thumbsup:

I really like the guys here. They give us interesting inputs if we have a question. Keep it up!!!! :)

Chris,

Are all of the parts that you mention made out of aluminum?



--Eric

Sounds like you are very knowlegeable on this subject. Do you have a good anodizer that you use presently and if so could you give me their business name and or info. We might have some business for them. It would be much appreciated. Thank you.

here are my feslers

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v471/viperich/dsd.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...h/photoher.jpg

I used be used to be responsible for sourcing plating houses on all prototypes & manufactured items when I used to work for Wilwood.. All plating houses that I used were here in So Cal.. If that works for you.. PM me & will get you a list.. Have sources for anodizing, zinc plating, e-coat, dacromat, chrome plating, powder coating & etc.. If you need specs on plating.. Just let me know..

I would powder coat trim pieces with any billet aluminum piece to maintain a consistency on the finish..

also when sending stuff in for anodizing make SURE there are no traces of steel in the parts like pins and such because it will literally blow a hole rite in the part and it sounds like a bomb going off when it happens we just lost a 250K helicopter rotor plate assembly because the customer forgot to remove a helicoil.

My anodizer does one hell of a great job. Consistent as hell, and great finish on all colors.

In California.

Pacific Coast Anodizing
(559) 441-0789
Fresno, CA

You can order them from us and powder coat the other parts, we do it all the time. that way all your trim will match.

Not to hijack this thread but since it has the attention of some people with anodizing experience - I have a question......

I'm about to have my aluminum dry sump tank and breather tank anodized. Hard anodizing sounded like the way to go and only slight increase in price. However, the tank has both male and female threaded ports (mostly -AN style). I am concerned about the ability to get the -AN lines reconnected to these ports after being anodized. Is it ok to have these threads anodized also or do I have them masked off? Masking costs extra and takes an extra week.

Can anyone share their experience with anodizing similar parts?

G.

Ive only done that once, and I didnt have a problem with it, the fitting worked perfectly. I know black is a very hard color to get right, it comes out brown if youre a amateur like me :lol:

I second the recommendation that you finish aluminum before anodizing. Polishing or shot-peening, whatever. Just make sure all the surface finish is the same. And be sure to have all the parts done at the same time if possible.

If you are going to anodize welded parts, use 5356 rod for filler material (rather than 4043). 4043 doesn't anodize well.

The best part about black anodizing is that blemishes can be repaired with a Sharpie. :)

For door handles, I'd recommend powder coat. I think you'll find that more durable, and it will hold up better over time to UV radiation.

jp

Thanks for the info guys. All parts are brand new so the finish is fresh and uniform on the tanks straight from Peterson (who used a specific weld material, knowing that I would be having them anodized).

I'm having everything done by a profesional anodizing company. In fact they encouraged me to bring in other small parts since the price would remain the same.

Does anyone have experience specifically with threaded parts and hard anodizing (not soft although it would be good to compare).

G