Anyone familiar with Big Stuff 3 ??
 

Good friend of mine is chasing a timing issue down with his 4th gen LSX build.

He's having a hard time getting tech support from Big Stuff 3 if anybody has any help or suggestions, please post a reply in his thread on LS1tech.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-di...variation.html

Build specs:

1994 Trans Am, LQ9 block, 427 ci, callies crank, scat rods, mahle 8.5:1 CR, LS1 pro dart 225 ported and polished heads, Comp custom billet blower camshaft, 83lb injectors, 11psi D1SC pro charger, Fast LSXR intake & TB, Edelbrock 1-7/8" Headers and true dual 3" exhaust, BIG STUFF 3 fuel management.

threw in my two cents............ :lol:

Jody

Thanks Jody, sounds like thier tech support sucks.

last time I checked their tech support is Mr Meaney himself. Don't think he has anyone else helping him. They had a forum I think at one time, not sure if they still do or if it's very active.

John Meaney? No wonder why he can't get any answers or a response.

Your friend would probably get response on a site called yellow bullet. Big stuff 3 is very popular among the drag racers. They actually have a thread on the bad customer service, but other guys on the site are very good with it. Good luck! :thumbsup:

Because it can drive 24 injectors and has a bunch of datalogging capability. But if you're going to drive the car forget it, has minimal transient fueling tables etc. Download the software and see for yourself. Very basic.

Remember Johns best effort was probably Accel, they still have some of the patents. So I'm told he can't copy what he did from Accel, or from SpeedPro(FAST) or from Holley. That spells lawsuit. Shame actually, smart guy.

When this guy was at Accel -- the service and tech support there was HORRIBLE... Since he left there has been a vast improvement and it still sucks!

Sorry your buddy is having problems.

Call Joe at Hyperaktive Performance solutions. He will walk you through it step by step.

Thanks for the help and suggestions guys. My buddy has been trying to get this build to run reliably for quite some time.

That's a Mr Gasket issue, they never put any money into it.
And I would have to argue that it still sucks, call the number now and Dave will answer almost every time.

Good luck as well, but depending on the motor mods drivability ain't going to be what it could be imo.

He's getting a timing variation, quoted from LS1tech: timing advances up to 45 degrees @3000 rpm even though timing table says 23 deg. Idle table set to 0 to rule out that table, crank trigger offset set correctly, need help thanks

Poor guy has had to rebuild the brand new motor once and blown a couple sets of head gaskets since. The original builder is a local old school drag race shop that hosed him pretty good with the whole build as well as having the car in his shop for over 4 years. If you knew what the guy spent at the original shop on this motor all of these vendor not delivering parts threads are a joke in comparison.

Hey guys just briefly spoke to my buddy today, said they found the issue. It was something to do with the dealer settings like Jody suggested.

Thanks again guys :lateral:

That sux, it's guys like that that give the industry/tuners a bad name.

I chased my tail on that one for a while because the config file you see was correct. I had no idea there was a hidden dealer file that over-rode that one............... :mad:

So did he, not many locals familair with this software. It only cost him a motor rebuild, 2 sets of head gaskets, many other issues and alot of headaches and $$$$

so what is the magic sequence to get to the dealer area?? Is this just for the LS version BS3's or all? I've never heard of this before either.

I think this is the guys who had the problem that took my EFI class in Seattle it sounds like. I pointed them to the dealer config menu and told them how to fix it.

By pushing DLR an extra menu appears, it is supposed to be setup before shipping or by the dealer before it's sold. There are all kinds of extra menus that appear if you know what to do, or are in the inner circle. Lol

DLR? i have a bs3 as well.
Is there anywhere in the software fr trouble codes? i know it will only datalog for 30 seconds unless you want to pay 350 dollars.

I am bringing this up because I have been having an issue with my BS3. Brand new lsx motor and it will not start. Using the BAL feature I never get cam crank sync. I have tried everything, shooting voltage, new sensors. I have stumbled accross this thread and looked at the dealer settings, turns out the cam signal is set for none. It needs to be 5v. Does anyone have the password so I can fix this and get it running. Thanks.

I believe the default password was "12345". It's been a while though, but I remember it being something simple like that. It's five numbers/letters, but they're blocked out on my tunes.

None of my LS2 tunes had 5 volts selected for cam or crank either, they were set as none because the crank and cam input is set to IPU not HED.

ignition = inductive
crank input = IPU
cam input = IPU
crank edge = falling
cam edge = falling
cam hed pullup = none
crank hed pullup = none

Well when you look at it offline it defaults to those settings. Mine says the same thing offline, you have to be hooked to the PCM to see the actual settings in the box. Thanks for your help. I am trying to get this thing running right now.

don't have the car anymore so I can't hook up to it. I don't remember it changing but you may be right, it's been a couple years. Try that password though.

Well those passwords didn't work, but I do appreciate the help. I will keep plugging away until hopefully I crack it. I just need to change that one darn setting. thanks

I know it's a five digit password according to my saved files, but they show up as "X"'s........... then again, maybe your dealer changed the default password to something else.

John also sent this for 24X crank.

if yours is a 58X crank the standard LS BS3 won't work. At the time of mine the only one that worked with 58X was the LS7 computer.

Yes it is a 58x reluctor wheel but I had sent the box back to get updated to the ls2/ls7 style computer along with the matching harness. I have the password now but it still will not crank. I still do not pass the BAL test. The dot stays red. I have verified I have signal from the cam sensor all the way to the computer. I can turn the motor over and see the signal go in and out as it passes over the raised cam sprocket. Same with the crank. It says in the ignition setup guide that my cam and crank signals are occuring at the same time and I need a new cam sensor or change the relationship somehow between the 2 pulses. I don't really know how to do that.

do you have the correct timing chain/gears for that computer and cam sensor?

yeah is has the JP performance double roller 4x timing chain and 58x reluctor wheel on the crank

when you figure it out let us know. And good luck!

Thanks for all your help, I am going to give them a call tomorrow to see what the fix action is going to be. I will keep you guys posted.

Good luck getting through to them. My buddy's tuner figured it out PM me if you want his number he may know the password.

I ended up getting the password but the changes didn't help. Is still does not start. I have tried everything I can think of. It is getting cam signal and crank signal. No spark. I will go over the grounds again and check through it one more time.

how long have you cranked it without getting a spark?

I believe it's "engine"

you will have to key off and disconnect the battery after doing so. This will store the changes.

For the LS engines, they are hall effect pickups so they both should be HED according to the Dealer manual.
None of the other settings are needed for the LS setting.

If you choose "other" then, you need to choose rising or falling. Your input to the sensor is 12v because one side of the sensor has 12v in.

IPU is inductive like MSD type ignition.

Sad when the dealers can't even sell stuff setup for the customer. This is a basic one along with the first post in the thread.