LS Aluminum prep and high temp clearcoat?
 

Hi Guys,

I'm working towards getting my LS1 used motor cleaned and installed in the next week. I'm working out of my home hobby shop. I would like to clean all aluminum surfaces like new and then clear coat it all.

What's the best detergent for cleaning all the sufaces? I don't want to use something that would keep a clear coat from adhering.

What prep needs to be done to the surfaces to get good clear coat adhesion to the aluminum?

What rattle can high temp clearcoat is recommended? I don't want it to yellow, as it will get a lot of use.

Also, what would be best for coating the stock LS1 exhaust manifolds?

Thanks to all!!

If the aluminum has any oil staining on it, it likely won't come out. I have used Duplicolor "Aluminum" paint on intakes, brackets, and transmissions to hide any defects in coloring or staining. It starts out a little bright for my taste, but will lose the brightness and look much more natural with a little age. I have never had an problem with it peeling or flaking. Prep was nothing more than degreasing the surface as best as possible. My best result was the LT1 intake on the engine that was in my 68. I painted it several years ago and it still looked great when I sold it recently.

High temp grill paint or VHT brand paint works well on manifolds and headers, but in my experience it typically only lasts 4-5 years before rust started taking over again. I hope this helps!

If you want to get aluminum really clean you could maybe find a local machine shop with a Jet clean machine. That worked well for getting aluminum heads and blocks degreased and really clean.

Thanks guys but I know there was a spray acid I used on my aluminum slotted wheels on my first car wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too many years ago. It really brightened the aluminum then I would polish it. Something like that would work out just fine, I'm just not sure what the spray was. I really don't want to take the motor anywhere and I don't want to paint it either. Somebody must know what they spray is.

Thanks again.

A follow up
 

Well I got'r done.

I used simple green to remove the most of the dirt and grease which worked very well. Then I followed with a dupont degreaser that was safe for a leaving a paintable surface.

There was more staining and discoloration than I liked so I used duplicolor 500 degree primer, cast aluminum paint and clearcoat. It turned out great. I did some test pieces with the "aluminum" color but did not like how bright it was. The "cast aluminum" seemed to be the right shade. The Dupli-color rattle can spray nozzles are very user friendly and the stuff flashes fast, ten minutes between coats. All coats have to be applied within the same hour for proper curing, I was pleased with the product.

It will be some time before the car see's the road but I hope this stuff stays on good. Thanks to all who replied

Can you post some pics? Interested in the look. Thanks.

Pics
 

Here you go!

That spray is Eagle One Mag Wheel Cleaner. You can find it at pretty much any local auto parts stores.

diggin from the dead, but I wanted to say thanks for posting pictures, that really turned out great. Ive got an LSx and a 32V mod motor that will benefit from this!

Thanks for the compliment and I'm glad the pics were helpful. I can't say how well it will stand up because I still haven't made it to the road!!!:faint: Does anybody else have the problem of their projects growing in size as you work on them?!

Gene

Project scope creep is very common!!

ls block paint
 

Does any body make a high temp clear? I have a new ls-2 engine would like to keep it looking new. Any option's other then paint?

I bought some automotive epoxy clear at a local auto parts store when we installed the 383 in Mary's 73 Camaro. Sprayed the intake, heads, wheel centers of TT2 type wheels, anything that was bare aluminum. The clear darkens cast surfaces a little so I was careful to not put it on so thick that it made the cast surfaces look glossy.
David

Looks good!! I may be doing that here in the near future, but I need to rebuild my engine first.

clear
 

Should the shinny/machined surface's be scuffed? maybe with a red scotch brite?

ppg
 

theres a spray ppg makes that you use a scotchbrite with that not only cleans but etches it for better adherance for topcoating...

good info

Digging this up. Any feedback on how it is holding up over the years?