Engine paint?
 

Painting LS engine. Any prep tips would be greatly appreciated. Will automotive paint be able to stand up to the higher temps?

No, get the high temp paint. Anything else will flake off and become a huge mess.

Make sure to remove all the oil on the engine before painting, or the paint will not stay.

YES Al automotive paint WILL withstand the heat
just take your time in prep, get yourself a few toothbrushes and wire brushes and start cleaning the heck out of it (scrub and clean it with Lacquer thinner)

feel free to go to my website and look under the shop cars tab and take a look at the blue car ..... I have pictures there of cleaning and painted LS1

I'm going to be painting my LS3/trans with POR15 and then their engine enamel. I did a bunch of research and found the best reviews with POR. Quite a few guys said they painted their motors and gave follow up a couple years later. Said it looked just like they had painted it. Have heard mixed reviews about rattle can paint.

Duplicolor gets good reviews in my world, though I have no personal experience.
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/enginePaint/

I second this. If it's prepped right - you will NOT have an issue! I have done this a few times and never had a problem.

That's what I used. I had to hand scrub the old paint off, I bought that car with already flaking paint. Cleaned it, scrubbed it, cleaned it etc over about 3 days, then painted it with 2 coats. Now it looks fantastic and have had no issues.

Thanks guys for the info. One other question, did you primer first or go straight to paint?

Thanks again.:thumbsup:

We use VHT eng paint with good results. I primer first

http://www.vhtpaint.com/

The process we use on all engine/trans/rearends, etc. Clean the crap out of it!!! Use degreaser or similar and get it clean. I usually have a piece of scotch brite and I get in all the little nooks and cracks! Then get some wax/grease remover and wipe her down, even a second time is recommended on used parts. On bare metal you NEED a good "etch" primer first, then you can follow with a sealer, then base/clear (or single stage).

All automotive paints/clear will take any heat a motor will create. As long as the "prep" is done correctly the finish will a long time. :yes:

I second that. Same process I use and never had any problems with using automotive basecoat clearcoat system. It is a must to use a good etching primer.

Guys here is pic of the heads getting smoothed. Do I need to make sure that any sand scratches are totally removed or will the primer fill them in?

http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/...319/009-19.jpg

http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/...319/003-15.jpg

I would media blast if all possible or get it hot tanked. I like using Sherwin Williams GBP 988 etching primer in aerosol before paint. And yes, automotive paint will hold up just fine on the block, can't say that for the heads.They will need high-temp paint.

Thanks for the input guys! Prior to using the etching primer, what grit would you recommend to used to go over the bare aluminum to create some bite?

180 grit before primer.Do not load on bunch of material,be it primer,paint or clear,it will only create problems.

Thanks Jay, I had ordered the DX533 but unfortunately because I live in California it's not available :willy:

So any Californians that might have some suggestion I would greatly appreciate them!

I figure I post an update on my son Nathan LS3 project. He finished removing all the casting off the block.

He even did the inside, LOL. Some body needs to take the grinder from him. Greg, you can say this is the "Freakin Cleanest Block In The Universe"! :lol:

http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/...319/002-16.jpg

Here is a in progress shot of the crank case.

http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/...AL7319/sds.jpg

Finished.

http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/...AL7319/039.jpg

Next he had it blasted.

http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/...319/005-19.jpg

http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/...319/014-12.jpg

Now it's going to the machine shop to make clearance for a 418 forge internals. Any finally painted in a satin gun metal gray.