How do I keep motor from turning while trying to torque crank bolt?
 

I've installed the ATI balancer on my motor and it says to torque the stock crank bolt to 240 ft/lbs. How do I keep the motor from turning over to get it torqued that tight? The motor/trans are the car and I'm using a Lakewood scatter shield so not much access to the back. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

If the driveshaft was in and wheels/tires/emergency brake installed and functioning, I'd put it in gear, block the wheels, set the emergency brake and torque it that way.

With that said................... I've never torqued mine to spec on the LS motors. I use an impact and get it tight, and I've never had an issue. I understand that's not correct per spec, and I understand you can probably find people who've had an issue NOT doing it per spec, but in my experience it's worked perfect FOR ME every time.

Thanks Jody. Maybe I'll just leave it until I have the drive train finished. Might be easier then.

Kent-Moore makes a tool that locks the flywheel. They are expensive though:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-J...#ht_1574wt_768

Don

I was able to get my new (stock) bolt tightened to spec in my C5 when I replaced the balancer, but it was a PITA. I torqued it to spec with the torque wrench and then to get the additional 140 deg. (I thinks that's right - anyway, whatever it was) I had a monster breaker bar w/ a pipe on it.........I had the rear wheels on the ground, e-brake yanked, and it was in gear.

I think the ARP bolts are just required to be torqued to a certain spec. I don't think the stock bolt is supposed to be reused. At least that is what I was told. I think it intended to stretch upon installation -- LS gurus can correct me if I'm wrong.

Not a guru but the stock bolt is a stretch bolt and should not be reused.

Don

YEP! never reuse the stock bolt.

I pulled the starter and had someone hold the flywheel with a pry bar against the bell housing and got the bolt real close the the spec.

Take a spark plug out, insert rope, tighten, remove rope.

A big screw driver will accomplish the same thing.

Use an air gun and you should be good.

need pics. ;)

Pic is there now.

I am going to take a new pic tomorrow and will update it.

Tim

LOL, I was just going to update this thread showing which one I bought, but I see Tim already put up a link to his. I ordered one from him. Here's a link to his thread on LS1Tech which has a better pic: http://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-clas...e-holders.html Thanks again Tim.

When using this method it is very important to make sure the cylinder being used is approaching TDC on the compression stroke. If not and you get the rope on an open valve damage may occur!!

does that device bolt in in place of the starter? Having a hard time visualizing it... Thanks.

Hope this helps..... It worked great.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/P1010720.jpg

Wow, pretty cool. I love the creativity in this hobby! :bow:

Great thanks for the pic installed.



Tim

On an engine stand I've actually removed the oil pan, placed a 2x4 piece of wood between the crankshaft counterweight and the block to prevent it from turning and torque'd it that way on 3 different motors.

That being said... I just bought the $35 tool :thumbsup: . The GM tool was just too much $.

I just got mine over the weekend. Although it doesn't show up that well in the pictures, this is one beefy piece. Ought to be a great help!

Great glad to hear it.

Tim