Which Ford GT40 switch for power windows?
 

I would like to use the Ford GT switch for power window switches in my car but don't know which one to order. There are 5 available.

Head lamp
Fog lamp
Hazard
Dimmer
Heated rear window

I assume they are each different and one would be best for my application.

Thanks

Throwing options out makes it much easier for me to remember. I couldn't remember when Troy at BBT asked, but now I'm pretty sure you need the dimmer.

Headlamps: one click up or down for high beams and low beams. Center is off.
Foglamps, hazard, heated rear window: I think these just toggle on and off.
Hazard: by process of elimination, I'm pretty sure this is what you want. I'm running electric cutouts in my Camaro, and the switch is momentary. I just push up or down to open or close, and can run them partially open/closed.

Hope that helps,

Matt

Thanks Matt. That does help and was the direction I was leaning but was hoping for some first hand experience.

That was first hand experience. I stopped by the shop where my car is currently sitting, and took a picture, which I can send to you if you like.

Matt

Matt, we'd like some candy to!:unibrow: Let's see

Thanks Matt. I didn't word the response correctly, I understood that you were using the switch for your exhaust and that's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for taking the time to respond and take a photo. I would love to see the pic. My email is [email protected]. :thumbsup:

Alright Lenie. Turns out I'm not actually the most prolific photographer in the world. Luckily McGaffin shot some excellent pictures for Camaro Performers last year, which are on their website.

Here is the one I found,

http://image.camaroperformers.com/f/...o+switches.jpg

Sweet! Does the black trim around the switch come w the switch?

Yes sir! I believe it is all part of the plastic piece the wiring goes into.

p.s. I hate how clear McGaffin's shots are. You can see everything, even how we mounted them, as the one needs to be pushed in and adjusted. :_paranoid

Matt

Hey, I tried emailing you the shot from my phone but it wouldn't go through. Is that address correct?

Matt

Matt thanks for the pictures. What do you use all four for? Which ones would work well for door poppers you think?

Hey Lenie, I'm using (from left to right) headlights on the first switch. Center is off, up is highs, down is lows. Headlight doors on the second switch, which flips up to open the doors. The third switch is momentary and wired for the electric cutouts, hold up to open, down to close. The fourth and final switch hasn't been wired yet, but I put it in because I imagine it might be useful since we're never done adding to our cars.

As for which one would work best for door poppers, (or a lock/unlock button?) I'm not sure. My only real knowledge of electrical stuff consists of checking grounds to figure out if things aren't working.

Matt

Thanks Matt, looks great. My doors aren't going to lock, sshhhhh. Just need something that gives momentary power and automatically pops back to neutral. Really like the looks of those switches.:thumbsup: Thanks again.

Looks to me like he forgot a couple characters, and to forget rx is ironic in his case.:lol:
[email protected] should get there.

Thanks Robert. That would be correct, I forgot the rx. Funny how being on vacation made me forget that part, lol. Darn Iphone, but at least I can still get my lat-G fix without a computer or wifi.

Sorry to awaken an old thread, but where can one acquire these switches? They are absolutely beautiful and I would like to grab a set for a Nova build I am in the process of doing. Thanks.

Ironworks Speed and Kustom has a recreation of these. They have multiple version to handle all the functions. They are based on quality industrial switches. Rodger will get you set up.

Here they are:

http://www.ironworksspeedandkustom.c...cat/cat199.htm

Ironworks has them in billet: http://www.ironworksspeedandkustom.c...cat/cat199.htm

Thanks for the mention Chad. Yes we sell an quality switch that can be used for power windows, starter switch, headlight switch or a standard on off switch. We made the switch tops from aluminum so they can be chromed, powder coated, anodized, brushed or whatever you need for your interior.

The power window switches have a dual circuit side so they can reverse the power windows to allow you to not not used a complicated relay bundle. Plus they will switch 20 amps.

These switches have now been used by many of the biggest builders in the industry. The ring bros painters to the Miranda Built 67 nova great 8 winner this year in Detroit.

If you have any further questions let me know. We have new styles of switch tops coming soon.

Plus our switches are 20-30 bucks a switch cheaper then trying hunt them down from your local Ford dealer.

http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/t...riorswitch.jpg

Anyone else purchases these Ironworks switches and having issues with them shearing off the plastic switch ears? No matter how carefully I install the switch heads and even if they feel secure after install a few weeks later I find the switch head on my floor. I have spent $170 to date replacing the switches and just had another one fall off.

What does Rodger say?

After answering Chris's 70 plus emails for the past year and half and offering and sending replacement switches only, we are some how made out to offer poor customer service. My wife dealt with him for months and then she passed it off to Kellen who a few weeks ago said I don't have any idea how to make this guy happy. So I got to deal with Chris and his insults for the the past few weeks and demanding things that are just not true. I told Chris I would not give him what he wants. Now he has trying to hold me hostage by posting on every place on the internet he can find. I wish I could figure out how to upload a screen shot of Chris threatening me with harm this morning after I told him NO again and said I saw no point in talking with him on the phone.

We have sold 1000's of these switches in the past 8 years. Chris has single handedly broke the ears off more switches then all the other switch sales customers COMBINED. We presumed after selling so many switches that is was pretty obvious that when installing a steel heat treated spring clip on the plastic switch that you need to do it gently. I can make the clip and the switch cover, but we are not advanced enough to make our own switches not from plastic. We choose the Carling Industry switches that are used by lots of OEM manufactures. In the past 8 years we have a couple questions from people wanting to be gentle with things we have never had a guy break this many switches by themselves and tell us our method of install doe snot work.

Ironically when Chris bought these switches last year he wanted us to price match this very post from 2013. We charged him the price on our website, but he wanted us to go back and honor some post from 7 years before on a message board. My wife against my advice was nice and gave him a 10% break. Don't get any ideas, HAHA.

Some where in the middle of the 70+ emails it was explained to Chris a few times you need to be gentle when installing the tops on the plastic switches ( it seems after 7 years of selling the switches this was kinda obvious). We tend to either rock them on or its even better to use a small pick to slightly hold the spring tab outward just to make them go on. We used the spring tab so when installed they would stay in place and not rattle.

Our switches have been used multiple time by some of the best builders in the business so much that I think that have been knock off by a few people and probably served their life span as people always want the newest latest thing. We have made several style of this switch and sold quite a few of the other styles as well.

At some point you cannot please everyone I guess.

Use Microsoft Snipping Tools to get a Screen Shot

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/...0-97299b865f6b

i have them and love them.no probs, custom bezels illuminate at night.i have 4 switches ,2 fans ,fuel pump and conv top

Roger and I were able to get this worked out. Just so we are clear I never threatened harm to Roger. After he refused to give me a phone call after I stated there was clearly a misunderstanding and multiple emails following that ask I simply stated that if our conversation were happening in person I could almost guarantee he would not be speaking to me in the way he was on email.

Either way, we came to an agreement and it's all water under the bridge in my book.