Inlay Style Trunk and Door Panels - Need Help & Ideas
 

im going to be starting the interior on the chevelle and need some help figuring out how to build the panels. id like to do an inlay style panel (1st pic below) and have an idea on what id do, but id rather not reinvent the wheel and end up with a longer process on top of it.

my idea is to start with a template of the inlay piece. with this, i can use the router and bushings to cut a hole in a 3/8" piece (the main panel) and cut another piece to inlay out of 1/4". since the 3/8" piece would be cut all the way through, i would need some sort of backer to attach the inlay to with (velcro?). for this, id just use a piece of 1/8" mdf that i would bond to the back of the 3/8. in the end, i would end up with a 1/2" thick piece of mdf with a 3/8" deep cut and a 1/4" piece to inlay in the hole. i thought of starting with a 1/2" piece, but i dont want to route all the inside out to 3/8" deep.

the questions; is there an easier/better/faster way to do this? what gap should i leave between the inlay and the hole? my thought was 1/8" all the way around which would probably end up at 1/16" after putting leather on it. im also thinking that the 1/4" inlay with fabric folded around its edges and back plus the velcro will make it stick out the extra 1/8" to be even with the 3/8" deep cut. is this an accurate assumption? is there something better than the velcro to fasten? what sort of glue should i use that i can spray from a gun? ive read that landau (sp?) is good, but cant find it in anything less than 1 or 5 gallons.

second issue. for the rear shelf i need to build up the depth a little to mount my speakers. they will also be in a cut out section and have an inlay of speaker fabric or some sort of grille over them. since i dont want to run a full sheet thats 1" thick, i want to build up the edges around the inlay and leave the rest of the panel thinner (kind of like second pic). whats the proper way to do this. ive thought about cutting my own mdf in the shape and size i want, but that too is tons of work. hagan street rods sells a foam that will do the same thing (3rd pic), but its expensive and im not sure its the size i want. are there other foams like this? any other suggestions? Clint, Tracy, i'd love your opinions! Thanks!!!

http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...LLC20TRUNK.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...012_detail.jpg

http://www.haganauto.com/v/vspfiles/photos/doBN-2.jpg

Instead of using mdf why not glass over a foam core . Mdf door panels are going to be heavy.
foam
http://www.avtcomposites.com/cgi-bin...&category=1230

ive never worked with glass or foam before. it would be a great option if the foam was hard enough that i could work it like the mdf. it would be a lot tougher since i dont know how much the glass would add to the thickness etc when doing my cutouts and i dont know how much detail i would lose.

i could always build them out of mdf, make a mold and then lay my parts in glass. id get the detail, wouldnt have to worry about build thickness, but that would be a TON of work.....

Are you building your own panels to save some cash or because you don't like the look of whats available? If it's to save some cash .. you won't. Between materials and trial and error you will spend much more than you think. I could have easily just bought a set by now. Too late, I'm in too deep. Making the molds reqires a disgusting amount of time.

mostly because theres not really anything available. i talked with marquez the other day and they seem to be at least another year out. plus, with my tubs, seat belt mount and harness bar, i have to cut up the panels some anyways. and i have to build a dash. i might as well learn the simple stuff before taking on that friggin project.

if you were to make yours again, how would you do it (besides buying :) )? im thinking of doing the door panels in just a thin sheet of mdf with an inlay as well.

I would do the base the same . Make the shape out of the foam I gave you the link to. Glass over it and body work it. Given how well you have done the rest of your car I don't think you will be happy with the weight of an mdf panel.

thanks tony. i'll look into the glassing a little more. how do you think they are making the raised areas and the depressions? it appears they are glassing over something, but what is that something?

how many layers of glass for something like this? any other quick glassing pointers?

I have some foam at the shop. I ordered it it to start on my package tray but have not been able to touch my car in a while. Are you in a rush? Give me a few days. I'll see how well it routers. I dont think there will be any problem routering it. As far as the glass itself it depends on the shape you come up with. Panels with tight corners are going to require something different than a straight panel.

1/8 and 1/4 Landau foam would work for your needs. Check a shop in your area that works on vinyl tops.

tony, whenever you get around to it. im looking at starting some time next week though.

tracy, thanks for your input. i'll give them a visit and see what they have. will those foams be hard enough to use with a router? im finding this in 1/8 and 1/4" rolls so im thinking its going to be too soft for a router. how would i get a nice uniform edge that rolls into the cut out section?

depending on what i end up doing with the mdf, ive found that my 3 main trunk panels would weigh between 8 and 12 pounds total. not extremely light, but ive taken a lot of weight out. the 12 pounds would be with 1/2" frame and 1/4" inlay.

Foam is not hard enuf to router, Try using 1/8 or 1/4 masonite or hardboard to get really sharp edges.

thanks again guys. i have a feeling that what i do for the trunk and rear shelf is going to be different from the door panels and dash. ive figured out a way to make the panels the 12 pounds total that i listed above, but with a 3/4" thick frame. since i dont expect that i will need all of that, i may be able to get them down to 10 lbs and maybe less. that still doesnt include the trunk floor or the piece that you would lean over if reaching into the trunk. both of those arent planned to have any detail and can be made much thinner.

its hard to shave a couple pounds here and there, especially when my sub has a 14lb magnet and the box will probably be another 20 lbs. but the weight savings is worth a shot for the same or a little more work.

still wondering about how the pics above got their detail????? what did they lay down and glass over? how did they do it?

I have been planning on doing all of these things to my own Chevelle for quite some time now and am at the same place trying to figure out how to do it.

My plans for the door panels were to use 1/8" abs plastic panels with high density foam for the offsets. For the trunk I had planned on using 1/4" to 1/2" MDF for the base panels and the inner long panel that will hold the sub, sub box, and amp. Then to save weight on the passenger and drivers side of the trunk use abs plastic again.

I'm just an amateur in the same position as you in regards to interior work but I have found the experts are very withholding with their responses which I completely understand.

Please take lots of pictures if possible, I'd love to see how you end up doing all of this as I'll be starting mine soon.

no problem. the trunk panels and shelf should be over the next few weeks and then im going to start on the dash. door panels will probably be last.

Sorry it took so long. It routered very crisp and easily.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...v/IMAG0033.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...v/IMAG0032.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...v/IMAG0031.jpg

Tracy, I am definitely not trying to go against any of your recommendations . I am always impressed by your work and willingness to help others with interior fabrication.

tony, looks good. what kind of foam and whats your source?

Just to make sure we are on the same page this is foam core. It's purpose is to be sandwiched by fiberglass.

http://www.avtcomposites.com/cgi-bin...&category=1230

Not taken bad by me so no worries, Foam that is thick is very hard to get material to lay nice with good crisp edge, Thats why just about all the pro shops that I know across the country use 1/8 and 1/4 to some degree. I only recommend what works for me, You guys might come up with something thats new and different to try. Im still always open minded about something new to use. I would like to see the results of your work also. So keep posting :thumbsup:

The foam I mentioned is meant to have fiberglass applied over it. I'm waiting for things to slow down at the shop so I can get back on my car . probably within the next couple weeks.

thanks for all the advice guys. below is what i posted in my build thread. one day when i have more time i will give the other methods a try.

made some progress on the trunk. i decided to use mdf since i have all the tools and somewhat know what im doing. so far the pieces around the latch are 1/2 and the uprights are all 5/8". both are ultralight mdf with the 1/2" at 42lbs per sheet and the 5/8" at 52lbs (3/4 regular is ~96lbs). the side pieces you see now have the inlaid portion cut out, but there is still more to cut. they currently weigh ~1.2lbs. im using 1/8" mdf for the inlay and should have these panels under 2 lbs. i know i could have saved some more weight with foam, but it would have been a lot more time and money and im not sure i would have gained that much. i will end up routing a portion of the bottom piece out to save weight as well.

i talked to the local shop and they want $75 an hour and $450 a hide to cover. ive looked around online and found hides around $150 shipped. ive already recieved some samples and they look really good (although not sure what im looking for). i plan on getting one and covering the trunk myself. i might do the rear shelf as well, but i have a feeling the door panels, dash and center console will be left to the pros.

i'll post more pics later.

http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_3265.jpg

http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_3261.jpg

I did not see it mentioned, but MDF is not a good idea especially in a trunk because it will swell like crazy with any moisture. Since you have already used it, you can simply seal it on the backside before you wrap it and you'll be good to go.

The good thing about it, is the ability to route it anyway you want. Layers, colors, aluminum, lexan and other options are limitless.

i plan to give it a few coats of lacquer before wrapping them. i just need to make sure there wont be any issues between the lacquer and the glue. any other better sealers? poly? i can shoot a pre or post cat lacquer if that helps.

in the kitchen i built i actually used mdf centers in the raised panel doors. ive found them to be much more stable than the maple, but they are sealed with conversion varnish. we're only a couple miles from the beach and get the marine layer most nights. with the windows open, theres never been a problem. but this stuff will swell HUGE with moisture if not sealed.

Im currently researching some things and came across your thread. Im starting the interior of the car this winter (wont be the trunk yet though - have some sealing issue I need to take care of first). But I wanted to shoot a suggestion to you.

Are you dead set on using the leather? There is an AWESOME product Im using to cover my dash pad, a pillars, door panels, ect..... called wisper vinyl. Its a soft touch vinyl that looks and feels a lot like leather. Its $30/yd. If you want to know where I got it, shoot me a PM. They do have samples or I can mail you a sample if you want - up to you but since its going in the trunk I thought I would throw this out there.

Cant wait to see your finished product!

Looks like it is coming along nicely. If you don't mind me asking too how do you plan on securing the side panels in place?

Looking forward to the next updates.

well yes and no. i was planning on just using vinyl, but ended up finding the leather for a decent price. i have nothing against vinyl, especially since most "leather" interiors are a mix anyways. but with the money and time already spent i dont want to regret not putting the real thing in. i also dont want to spend double the money putting a crappy leather in either. id love to hear some more options/opinions on materials.

there are 4, 3/4" square maple strips underneath for a flat base that will be screwed to the sheetmetal. i will only use a couple screws to mount the 1/2 mdf floor to these strips. i then made some aluminum brackets for the side pieces with 1 in the middle on the bottom and one about half way up each side. this not only secures the sides, but also the front and back. there will be 3 more for the big piece. i was planning on using the "christmas tree" fastners, but ended up testing velcro first. theyre really well attached, and thats with about 1/8" slop to allow for the material. i have a feeling they will be really snug when done.

and heres the latest on the trunk panels. theyre mounted and ready for more router work. im going to get all the inside edges cut and cut out the inlays as well. then its on to the rear shelf, dash, door panels and center console....

http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_3275.jpg
http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_3276.jpg

inside edges are now routed. i was hoping to find a bit that left a ledge for the inlay to sit on, but it didnt work out. not a huge deal, but could have been a little easier.


http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_3399.jpg

http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_3401.jpg

Looks good . When will your engine be ready?

Sweet

it shouldnt be too long. the heads and the crank are going to be the hold up though. we're going to try and get tony to cut me some 74cc heads to drop the compression down just a little more. it will save me about 500 bucks vs a custom piston.

more updated pics. i would call the trunk just about done. i plan on making an aluminum "cover" for the trunk latch hole and i need to remount the new back piece. other than that, its ready for material.

a few people have asked about the back cuts that i used to lighten the panels. if i wouldnt have put the detail in the panels, i could have gone with a thin piece and not needed a back cut. id also wait until done mounting before doing the cut if i did them again.

http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_3662.jpg
http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_3666.jpg
http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_3668.jpg
http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/IMG_3669.jpg

Looks great Tim. :yes: Time for a new career...:thumbsup:

Looks great. What did you use to make the cuts? They look nice and clean.

thanks, but my mind couldnt handle this full time. all these ideas consume WAY too much time.

to start, i made a template that i could trace the outside of. cut it out, sanded the edges and rounded the corners. i then used that to make an inside template (one with a hole the size of the shape i wanted). i could have used the first one, but if the router slipped a little my piece was done. with the inside template there was no way to cut too much.

i then used those templates to cut even more templates for the inside recessed pieces. because i used a bushing system on the router that provided a little offset, i ended up with lots of templates to make it all work.

LOOK'N SWEEEEEEEET TIM KEEP CRANK'N BUDDY