Dodge Charger 500 -70, 6.1 Hemi + T56, Pro-touring project.
 

Hi all, some may remember me from this -> https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=29907

Now i´m building Charger and mainly need bit help with engine conversion. Ive bought 6.1 engine from Cherokee SRT, i´ll make it run with standalone ECU, shouldn´t be any problem in that area, but in few other...

I´m from Finland, and speak Finnish, technical english isn´t that good and i have few issues in swap. Where to look info on this, many sites that i´ve found are 2-3 years old and part suggestions may not be the wisest, so few questions.

-Oilpan, milodon pan & pick-up http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-31000
Seems best option, is it?

-Oil filter seems to hit k-frame, Dodge Durango adapter that mounts it different angle? Or oil filter block of plate/ relocation kit.

-Headers, originals seem to be real nice, any chance those fit to Charger engine bay without modification, body has allready been painted so no cutting to enginebay anymore.
-If not originals, what then. TTi, Hooker 5020-1

-Engine mounts, ??? Not too hard to make but if not costly, i prefer to buy those. TTi, any others?

-Radiator?

I´ll probably using BMW M5 Getrag 6-speed manual, since have one allready, it can be fitted, just little milling and aluminium welding.
- Flywheel and clutch? Not have any ideas yet. On option is to make custon billet flywheel and use M5 clutch, that way also can use M5 slave cylinder without modifications.

More stupid questions later:)

This is full restoration project, body was taken to bare metal, seam-welded, frame connectors added. It´s painted all around, chassis parts are now pretty much painted and it´s now just time to start putting it back together.

-For the Oil pan, in addition to the Milodon look at a Canton oil pan or Charlie's Oil pan. I think they are lower profile.

-Mopar makes a 45 degree oil filter adapter

-Since your engine is from a Jeep SRT8, those headers should work. If not Street and Performance makes a shorty style or the TTI's you mentioned.

-Motor mounts, Think TTI's were the first to come out. Ive seen a couple sets on Ebay from other sellers (think TinMan was the name)

-I ordered my radiator through Dave Weber, it's from Northern Radiators.

-Call Bouchillon performance or Dave Weber at Modern Muscle, they can get most or all of the parts you need in one package. Since you live a ways away it may help with shipping.

I am also doing the cherokee 6.1 into my Cuda, curious what stand alone system your using? Also I have started to track down a list of parts for my swap

Future parts:
Fram oil filter #ph3512(w/o relocation kit)
Rear heater hoses, pn68000978AA, PN68000979AA,
Upper radiator hose pn5290488AB
Milodon#31000,

Not sure where I got all the info from but I have been writing it down as I read through various builds.

Thansk to Rjsjea for tips, what read yeasterday, i understood also that those headers fit, that saves quite a lot.

Thanks

So does that filter fit with original adapter? I´ll need adapter anyway, my engine is from wrecked car and adapter is damaged. Think that i´ll get this one.
http://www.moparsupercenter.com/gen-...45fltrkit.html

I ordered Milodon pan and pick-up from Summit, my usual part suplier gets stuff from there couplse times a month

I´ll be using Finnish ecu called http://tatech.fi/index.php i´ve put that earlier to two cars and are familiar with that, i´m also running LS3 in my Camaro with that.

Brake issues. Can i get ready brackets for Willwood superlites to Charger somewhere? Just happen to have one Superlites lying around at home.

What about wheel hubs (or what those are called in US?) for discs, or just modify hubs from old brake drums...

Any updates?

Updates on this, very few. All time has went to my Drifting Camaro rebuild, supercharging, E85 conversion (which btw gives pretty amazing results in S/C engine) and now racing.

Few pics about that.

http://jat.kuvat.fi/kuvat/FPDA%20Dri...jpg/_small.jpg
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyklowni/9239389177/
http://jargon.kuvat.fi/kuvat/Moottor...g/_smaller.jpg
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5526/9...d38cfe7a_z.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/9...860bd105_z.jpg

About Charger, very little has been done.

-All chassis/suspension parts have been powdercoated (dark grey matallic) and i front-end has been re-assembled with all new joints and energy
bushings

I have got few new parts, 300C SRT8 Brembo front brake Calibers, big order on Dante´s includidng pretty much evething that still was missing. Interior parts, all gasgets and seal and lots of small stuff.

-I got 904 gearbox and cutted 2" inch slice from its bellhousing, and did same thing for that Getrag gearbox. Now should have proper flywheel made and those could be welded together.

Like this, quite similar setup.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...o/P2030023.jpg

That is awesome, drive it like you stole it my man:king:

Always :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iH08WloZHKY

Nice to see you out having fun if your not working on the new project!

Transmission issues with this, i got good deal from GM T56 so bought one. And got also good price from that Getrag box so...

So what´s easiest and most cost efficient way to mate GM T56 with my Hemi

Viper bellhousing bolt pattern matches to Hemi bisedes two top holes? But input shaft is too short with that?

Does bellhousing from challenger srt8 fit to this? bellhousing fron tr6060 fits to t56 right? Is there big lenght difference in input shafts?

Small progress with car otherwise also

Pretty sure Quicktime has a bellhousing that mates a GM T56 to a Gen III hemi.

Try calling Mark Bowler at Bowler Transmission, he'd know or be able point you in the right direction

Yes, this seems to be the one ->

http://www.jegs.com/i/Quick+Time+Bel...-8078/10002/-1

But that´s over 500$ everywhere, plus ~100$ shipping to here Finland.

Dodge OEM http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p...8061184AA.html

Is lot cheaper, and personally believe that oem product is more precise for fitment.

Discovered interesting thing.

Lakewood rm-8077 Hemi to Chevy LS-T56 / Viper T56 (How can they sell it to both, different lenght input shafts)
Lakewood RM-8078 Hemi to Ford T56
http://lakewoodindustries.com/mopar6...t56-viper.html
http://lakewoodindustries.com/mopar6...t56-chevy.html

Jegs RM-8077 Hemi to Viper T56
Jegs RM-8078 Hemi to LS1 T56
http://www.jegs.com/i/Quick+Time+Bel...-8077/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Quick+Time+Bel...-8078/10002/-1


Summit RM-8077 Hemi to LS1 T56 / Viper T56
Summit RM-8078 Hemi to Ford T56
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...8077/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qti-rm-8078

Amazon RM-8077 Hemi to Viper T56
Amazon RM-8078 Hemi to LS1 T56
http://www.amazon.com/Lakewood-RM-80...ywords=rm-8077
http://www.amazon.com/Lakewood-RM-80.../dp/B004DCEMTG

There is somesord of mix up in this, but could it be that 8077 requires Viper input shaft or custom flywheel and pilot bearing spacer.

And 8078 is direct fit with LS T56

And, Rm-8081 for Hemi and Dodge TR6060, for new Challenger that sees to have separate bellhousing unlike Chevy TR6060. If you look picture, seems that transmission bolt pattern is same that older T56 boxes, but what would be the lenght? Can´t seem to find that dimension picture anywhere.
http://lakewoodindustries.com/mopar6...9-10chall.html

And again, reason i investigate this, Dodge bellhousing
http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p...8061184AA.html
Is A LOT cheaper

Pretty sure the Dodge OEM one will not work

http://forums.corral.net/forums/gene...-t-56-a-8.html

Found this thread, according to that. Dodge tr6060 bolts to t56 bellhousing

I eventually get quicktime bellhousing, now had time get back to this. I builded another dailydriver -70 Charger at meantime :)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7555/...24c1a6f8_b.jpg


Hemi...
Its pretty tight (impossible?) fit with steering box and drivers side exhaust manifold, any ideas which location should i move engine? If i remove A/C compressor, i can take it further back.

It´s now about 1.5" on right of centerline and oilpan at k-frame level. How far back are these ususally mounted? Transmission tunnel seems to need quite a bit modification for T56.


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7550/...7290349f_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7470/...0bfe0528_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7531/...ca9c21e7_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7566/...b8f76b7e_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8634/...4ccf5e73_b.jpg

I´ve been playing around with idea of fabricating bolt on subframe add-on for steering rack, that would solve issue with steeringbox, and couple other problems too.

Wish I could help, Mikko, but I don't know much about Mopars. I'm glad to see you still working on it. The orange one is nice as well. Good luck with them.

I believe 1.5" offset is correct for B-Body. For the front / rear location and height, make sure you are clearing the steering center-link lock to lock. Do you know the location for the stock engine? I have a Mopar A-body, so I can not be much help, it is a little different. If you move the location of the engine it affects many other pieces, it is a big jigsaw puzzle.

Here's a great resource. Most of this info is from guys who have running cars and know what works.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...splay.php?f=83

I've got a T56 swap thread there with a list of parts you need. There are also lists of what works and what doesn't. It even goes into what rad is the best and gives part numbers. A company called Champion makes a hemi swap rad and its much cheaper than Modern Muscle.

Riddler

Progress...
I ordered 1 5/8 conversion headers from Dougs headers, those were on sale and shipping was reasonable. Fits with original subframe and steering box, and fast ratio pitman & idler arm. Went awfully close to torsion bars so bit of heating and bending was needed

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7562/...f5620b4e_b.jpg

Also have been planning brake setup. Got good deal on used Brembo calibers from 300C /(Magnum) SRT8, so SRT theme continues And ordered new 14" grooved discs from same car.

For rear i got 12,6" vented discs from 300C also.
I noticed earlier that 300c disc fits quite nicely to Charger hub when did brake job for wifes has-been 300C CRD.
Rear calibers? Dunno yet, maybe VW Touareg / Multivan ATE calibers? Quite reasonable priced and meant for disc that sized, and has handbrake in caliber.

Made engine brackets from Jeep ones, use this with new small block engine mount.https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8580/...21a02192_b.jpg

Gearbox tunnel also done and painted, and tranmission bracket.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7390/...488e0f80_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7399/...d2182ce7_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7307/...b33182fe_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8656/...55c6a2ba_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8646/...33b385ee_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7319/...c7327e34_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/...5710d056_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7316/...dc8c1dc2_b.jpg


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7306/...fe28f505_b.jpg


Also changed timing cover for engine, original was cracked in crash. Sourced one from ebay. Oli filter neck was also broken so opened two connection rod caps and checked bearings, should be first things that damage if engine has run without oil pressure, all like new so back together.


One question related to this. Ordered 4 connection rod bolts because of this, these are torqued to yield. Part number has changed and bolt design also. New bolts are 2gram lighter than original, so bottom end balance is now 8 gram of from factory balance. Should i worry about this?


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7304/...e8fc6c07_b.jpg


Next?

Brake and fuel line assembly, what else should i mount before engine and transmission go back in for the last time. I need to move this to floor now from my 2-pillar lift.