427ci LS2 sleeved, dry sump oil pump, engine build & install, 69 Camaro
 

Hey guys, I am new to this site, I posted up some back ground info in the “introductions” section yesterday. I am currently a member at LS1 Tech and I did an engine build thread there that I wanted to share here at Lat-G. I did a 427ci LS engine with LS7 heads, LS7 single plane intake, 4 barrel TB, and a dry sump oil system. The thread covers the engine build, engine install, dry sump oil pump and plumbing install, and some other stuff. I wanted to try something different using the single plane intake rather than the LS long runner intake. The goal was to build an engine with a long wide power band and good top end that would work well on the street and the track.

I worked with a local engine builder on this project. The engine was built from the ground up starting with an LS2 aluminum block from a wrecked Corvette. Working closely with the builder… I was able to do testing on the engine dyno to try out different cold air intake sets ups, test the digital control fuel system, and CTSV fuel pump. I found out a few surprises testing different cold air intake set ups! I wanted to tune the engine on the dyno exactly as it would be set up in the car. I didn’t want to have issues after install. This worked out great… since the install I have had no issues and the tune is perfect. This was a good way to go.

I swapped out my 450 HP carbureted 350ci gen 1 small bock for the new fuel injected LS engine. I documented the build and install with pictures from start to finish. The duration of the project was about 12 months. The engine was installed in the car this past August. I plan to continue the build project with a swap from the Muncie 4 speed to a T56 Magnum 6 speed (trans on order :D ).

I was pointed to this site by a guy on LS1 Tech. Look forward to being a member here at Lat-G :thumbsup:

Here is the link to the build thread at LS1 Tech:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...ine-build.html


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3a062fda.jpg

Welcome sir. :thumbsup: Sounds like a sweet motor. :yes: Was your motor sleeved by ERL?

This is a very nice setup!

The attention to detail is over the top.

What does the car weigh full of fluids without driver?

Nice plans!

Sweet build!
Signed up on LS1tech the other day so I can learn a thing or two (so far not feeling so welcome there)
you are right at home here.:lateral:

Thanks! My engine was sleeved by Nutter. They do quite a few 427's there.

Thanks! The total weight of the car with no driver is 3,420 LB. Weight distribution is 53% front... 47% rear. The aluminum block on the LS engine helped to take some weight off the front of the car.

:thumbsup:

That is a bad mother trucker right there. :thumbsup:

Thanks! Yea I hear you... I was also hoping to get more technical feedback on LS1 Tech. Glad to be here now.

Thanks.... Yea it keeps my attention :D

Welcome dale, good to see you made it over here. Car is still amazing!
I was a regular at ls1 tech, with several hundred posts. I unregistered over there because its a ego fest. More arguing and cussing than actual technical discussions, most of the time. I did learn a lot about the LS engine, however, but I will never log back in over there. I started a new build thread here, and I'm glad I did.:lateral:

Always good to see someone else from the Pacific NorthWET!:woot:

Nutter does some engines and dyno's them over at Jim Preston's some times... and he used to build Preston's drag motors...

Where are you in the PNW??

Thanks Scott. I picked up a lot of good info in the past there. Not so much now.
:lateral:

Lol... nothing like 4 straight months of gray sky's and drizzle. I'm in Vancouver. I run my car at PIR. Might have to check out some tracks up north sometime.
Nutter is a great guy to work with, he's told me a few stories about his drag racing days... do you know him?

some of your posts indicate the engine is very streetable. I was wondering if you could comment on a few things -

what is your idle vacuum and rpm ?

When you do a cold start at < 45 degrees out, is it the kind of OEM cold start where you can just drive away right away with no issues or is it still a bit hot roddy where you like to let it warm up a minute or two or at least have to drive a bit gingerly at first ? By gingerly I just mean in my rig on a cold start it will drive more or less ok, but it doesn't like a bunch of quick throttle and it will still be a bit balky at low rpms and small throttle inputs until it warms up.

The vacuum level measures just over 10 in Hg at the 1,000 rpm idle speed. I took the vacuum reading off the port on the back of the TB.

After the engine starts I usually let the car run for about 30 seconds before I touch the gas. At that point the car is ready to go. Before the engine gets warmed up I just roll on the throttle gradually. It takes a bit before you can hit it hard. The engine does not balk or stumble though. It has a crisp smooth tip in off idle even when cold. I do a lot of driving on the street and in traffic... no problem... easy to drive, seriously.

This is my first LS engine project with computer control. I am amazed how well the engine starts up, runs, and idles, and returns to idle. The idle always returns to exactly 1,000 rpm at the stop lights (no surging). I have driven the engine in 100 F degree temps this past August and now in the 30's F with no change in the tune. So much better than a carb set up.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...1-06151014.jpg


Here is a link to an under hood; cold start; idle video. The temp was in the upper 30's F when I did the video. The idle speed was 1,000 rpm.

remote oil filter mount on hood hinge
 

When I did the dry sump oil system I had to figure out where to mount the remote oil filter. I ended up fabricating a custom bracket that mounted onto the stock hood hinge. The bracket uses the factory fasteners for mounting. This worked good... I didn't have to drill any holes on the inner fender or fire wall. The filter cleared the stock heating duct on the fire wall. I bought the billet aluminum black annodized oil filter mount from Moroso.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps26a625d9.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psb8a6532f.jpg

View from back side
http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5cdee709.jpg

I plumbed in a pressure switch into the oil filter mount. The switch turns on if the oil pressure drops to 18 psi. I mounted a large red light in the car so that if I ever have an oil pressure issue the light turns on. This way I don't have to monitor the oil pressure gauge.

Also, I installed an AEM wide band gauge to get real time feedback on the air fuel ratio.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7d025de9.jpg


Yea that is the original AM Delco radio and factory Tach. Some day I might go FM.....

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psd63f0721.jpg


I replaced the factory cluster gauges with autometer (originals didn't have any numbers)

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps760b2ad5.jpg

I believe what you say about the engine being very driveable but a 10" idle at 1000 rpms falls pretty far outside my desires. I currently pull 16" at 850 rpms and I still find the thing a bit rumpity (mine is a big windsor). But I'm getting older and my daily is a '92 Cadillac so anything feels rumpity to me.

I was curious as I have a driveability issue pulling 4th/5th gear below 2000 rpms and was wondering if my Super Victor intake was part of the issue, so I was interestedin how it drove for you, sounds like it drives pretty good.

Again very nice motor Dale, you in Vancouver, BC, Canada or Vancouver, WA?

I only know of him. Never actually met him

I went to Schumway a few years back. Like 46 years ago! Lol
Yeah I'm still dumb.

When I was 16 and 17 I worked at PIR. We ran Wednesday night 1/8th mile. Back then we called it grudge racing. And of course worked the bigger events as well. Then I traveled with McCulloch and Whipple in '70 and '71


:thumbsup:

I understand… drivability is a very subjective thing. This engine does push the envelope a bit for a street driven naturally aspirated engine. It is a good fit for what I am doing with the car. With all that said… I am surprised how street friendly this engine is. No stumbles on the bottom… very smooth and linear feel.

Thank you. I'm in Vancouver Washington

I know Schumway... I was down the road at Covington (a few years later than you though!)

PIR still runs 1/8th mile on Wednesdays (NHRA bracket racing). I did a father daughter project a couple of years ago and built a Vega drag car for her to race when she was 16. She had great reactions and enjoyed whooping the guys... fun times out there.

I remember Ed "The Ace" McCulloch... don't remember Whipple.

:thumbsup:

Headers
 

For this build I used a set of Kooks 1-7/8” stainless headers. These headers are designed to fit on an LS engine in a Gen 1 Camaro with a stock front sub-frame. Expensive but very high quality... and a perfect fit right out of the box. These headers came with some adjustable engine mounts (Dirty Dingo) but they were bulky and didn’t clear my dry sump oil pump… so I bought some Hooker engine mounts (p/n HOK-12624HKR) 0.5” offset. These mounts fit well and put the engine in the correct position.

The Kooks headers cleared the AGR steering box; pitman arm; and the Z-bar linkage for my mechanically operated clutch. These headers fit better than any I’ve ever used.... good ground clearance to. These headers were built with the LS7 flange to match my heads.


http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps46298494.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psd73ce51b.jpg


LS7 flange

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...pse92d3d82.jpg


This shows the fit on drivers side and clearance on the steering box.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps92c698d8.jpg


Close up on the steering box. Nice fit, no mods required.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...1-08221503.jpg

:lateral: :cheers:

Transmission bell
 

Got a call from Hurst Driveline Conversions today… my new T56 Magnum 6-speed close ratio trans shipped today :D

I picked up the Hurst cross-member also. any input on which type of bell housing to use?

Nice ride and motor! Welcome to Lat-g. :cheers: I'm switching over to MPFI in a few months and hope to experiences some of the positives you've mentioned about your build with the same. I'm jealous of your steering box clearance with your headers. My BBC isn't so friendly in that department. That's a nice setup you have. :thumbsup:

Rybar and I are also suffering the dismal Pacific NorthWet blues. Great car and nice build!

Thanks for the welcome to Lat-g... this site is great. The fuel injection is the way to go :thumbsup:

Thank you. At least the dismal weather doesn't stop us from working on the cars.

>At least the dismal weather doesn't stop us from working on the cars.

Tell me about it - I don't have a shop, just a large carport, and last night I'm out there cleco'ing on body panels with raw steel patches and the rain and mist are swirling around me, waiting in between gusts to tack stuff together. Yeah I feel like an idiot but what am I supposed to do ? Not work on the car ?


(Well obviously I have shop, just not for the car itself)

Which bell housing are most guys here using here for mounting a T56 transmission to an LS engine in a Gen 1 Camaro? Also, which shifter… the stock Tremec or the short throw aftermarket shifters like black jack or white lightning?

I’m picking up a new T56 Magnum tomorrow to replace the Muncie 4 speed.

Dale I purchased a Quicktime bell for my LS/T56. An aftermarket shifter is enticing, but I'm wait to stop hearing horror stories. The Tremec shifter works pretty well compared to a Pro 5.0 on a TKO.

I'm using the same as Ron QT bell with the block saver and Tremec shifter.

Thanks Ron. I looked through your build thread... great job, beautiful car!

Thanks, nice 71 :thumbsup:


I'm starting to gather the parts for the transmission swap. I just received the new Tremec T56 Magnum today. For the flywheel and clutch I'm using a Katech aluminum flywheel, and a GM ZR1 Corvette twin disc clutch (modified for 20% increased grip). The Z-bar mechanical clutch linkage will be replaced with a hydraulic GM unit.

Got on a waiting list in mid December and received my transmission today :cheers:
T56 Magnum close ratio. 2.66 first gear.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...1-10122212.jpg


Katech aluminum flywheel

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7279eb1a.jpg


Corvette ZR1 twin disc clutch. This is the best clutch I've ever used.. great grip and very smooth engagement.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps988faf3a.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps59baaf43.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psedd5b343.jpg

All of my wife's and my family are still in Portland so I come down once in awhile. I love to do Wednesday afternoon at Beaches shows.... and we always watch the drag racing. Tons of cheap fun!

Kool father daughter good times! :cheers:

The Beaches car show is very popular now… great place to hang out on Wednesday afternoons. I have some friends that race there every Wednesday ("Ol Gold")… fun times!

:cheers:

Ol Gold is AWESOME.... that thing just hooks up --- and runs! Love that car!

Nice pieces, did you buy just the flywheel from katech or the whole clutch/flywheel set up?
I am sort of kicking tires on different clutch setups at the minute.

I bought the parts together as a package... ZR1 clutch, aluminum flywheel, slave cylinder, and hardware. I drive the car a lot on the street and was looking for something with smooth engagement... this is it. The clutch is very smooth, no rattles and has a 960 Lb-Ft torque capacity. (i bought the kit with the extra 20% capacity)

Yea... you just don't expect to see a big old 39 Chevy sedan launch and hook up like it does. The engine is naturally aspirated 1,000+HP... Cool car!

Dale - Hurst has a re-engineered the Blackjack shifter with a seal and it should be available in February.

In the forward mount position (for stock console fitment) the Hurst and White Lightning will leak, the later being the worst in my testing.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-n...-n6Q7q62-M.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4...-4ZKpDgG-M.jpg

Mounting in the rear position either will weep a little but not enough to make a drip in 5k miles or so IMO.

The rear position is better proximity to the steering wheel for track use but you can't retain the stock console insert. I fabbed a sheet metal console plate until the new shifter is released.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-F...-FpmR6Dc-M.jpg

You're going to love that trans it's a major addition to the car. When reading your build thread this morning I was thinking all that car needs is a close ratio T56 mag and possibly a Watts link. :thumbsup: