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Metal protector?
We always see the pro-shop's cars in bare metal, sometimes for months at a time, and they never seem to have corrosion issues. I've always wondered what they do to protect them, is there a product put on the metal??
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Gibbs
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That's what we use, but i learned after we bought it that it is Gibbs relabeled.
http://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com/ Whichever is easiest to get! |
Thanks for the input guys! I'm going to be stripping the Firebird soon, my first time!
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I have some metal work to do but it will be spread over some spare time for at least a few weeks. I'll probably put it in primer as soon as it's done. |
Gibbs oil is great to use. It is also easy to remove for the painting process. I also use a thin coat of Phosphoric acid on the metal then wipe it off if the car won't be touched for a while. If someone touches the car with either product it will begin to rust. I offer a hand removal service to those who like to touch bare metal cars!
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Thanks for that tip, can you do sanding/welding/metalwork with these products on or do you wipe it off the area you are working with and recoat? |
Gibbs Product will protect the surface the best for fabrication. The acid will protect from rust but will make it a pain in the ass to weld on.
The reason not to put the entire car in epoxy primer is that is your grinding off the primer to do metal work your breaking the seal. We have gotten to the point we don't blast the cars any more as it's just to rough on the metal and the rust faster after being blasted. We paint strip the panels and just blast the parts that paint stripper would work on. Plus if the epoxy primer sits to long it will absorb moisture and start rusting in less then a year. There is no way to prevent steel from rusting unless you properly seal the metal and paint it a timely manner. Most painters will sand off any epoxy primer if it has been on there for any extended length of time so it then becomes wasted effort. So get all your metal work done, Then proper prep the entire body for primer right before you start body work. |
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Rodger |
Thanks for the input, Rodger. After seeing your work in person I'd go with any recommendation you give!
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The only recommendation from me I would trust is where to eat. We make mistakes all the time and we learn some thing new every single day. But Thanks |
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Rosa's --- for dinner Knotty Pine --- for breakfast Champs BBQ --- for lunch Then leave town and go someplace nice...... :bitchslap: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: |
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The local metal guru here said the closest dip-stripper is in Rockford, IL... Backyard stripping it is!!!
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Thanks, Eric, I didn't mean to get you in trouble!!!! |
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As long as you sand them down regularly it really is not an issue. If you stay on top of it, its not a big deal. |
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I will never blast a car again, sand, media, walnut shells, soda, whatever. Even if they do a good job at getting it clean, which seems rare, I hate sweeping up the junk off the floor for months. No one likes e-coat? We acid dip, do the metal, then dip again and ecoat. I really don't care if it rusts in between dips. The body shop loves not having to metal prep an entire car. |
The only thing I've ever heard about acid dip was if they don't neutralize all the acid -- it can get between pinch welded seams and come out "later"...
But I think that's what I'd do for a full on strip.... acid and E-coat.... I only ever had walnut shells on my Corvette restorations. I have a 50lb box of them sitting in the shed now -- never loaded 'em into the machine.... I'm always in too much of a hurry to get "whatever" off of "whatever".... LOL |
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Don't forget you live in Bakersfield --- 'cause trust me --- it's a big deal in the Pacific NorthWET.... |
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THANK YOU!!! |
You are more than welcome.
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