Let talk trailers!
 

I am shopping for a trailer for my car. Any recommendations? Enclosed/Open?

I see them from 16-24 feet. Is 16ft big enough for a 68 camaro? Do I need a side door? Im new to this trailer buying thing.

I'm hoping for some normal conversations on trailers. The last trailer thread was nine million pages long and was about custom built nascar crew trailers... (there was actually some good "normal" info in the beginning of that one but it quickly got off the rails)

My thoughts on open vs enclosed,
Open is ok for short local trips and great weather (and tight budgets). I think you could get away with a shorter trailer if it's open because you can access everywhere.

If you are on the interstate with big trucks and going out of town, and staying at hotels, and the weather there and back could be rainy or nasty, I think save up and go enclosed. Enclosed has to be longer, you have to be able to get in there and tie the car down.


Jeff-

My first question is what are you going to pull it with?

I agree, the tow vehicle makes a huge difference. I have a 20' enclosed trailer 103" wide and I tow it with a 2500HD Duramax. This makes a nice towing combination. I previously had a 1/2 ton Chevy when I first purchased this trailer and it was totally inadequate for towing a 20 footer. In fact it was downright dangerous at highway speeds mixing with semis on the interstate. I doubt you could fit a 1st gen Camaro inside a 16' enclosed trailer. I would recommend a 20' which is very common with tons of them to choose from. Also checkout RacingJunk.com for new and used trailers for sale.

I have an old open trailer. When its time to replace it. I think Im going to do one of these renegade trailers.

I've been hauling my cars around with an enclosed 24' V Nose. Be sure to get one with a dove tail (floor slopes down inside the trailer to the door) for better ground clearance. If you've got the extra cash that driver side escape door is nice... something I'll be looking for on the next trailer I buy. You could probably get by with a 20' but I'm constantly running engines, tires, and misc parts around with me and the extra couple feet are nice to have. I put in some cabinets up front to hold straps, tools, etc..

This one I have is a Cargo Mate. I would not buy another one. It wasn't that much cheaper than a name trailer and I've had to reweld and reinforce nearly half the frame where it supports the box for metal fatigue. I've probably put about 40k miles on it over the last 6 years and its all be on paved roads so no excuse for that.

Mustangs fit easy... the 70 Chevelle I just finished up was snug side to side. I'm glad it was a convertible so I didn't have to open the door to get out.

Good luck!

Now if it would only become enclosed the same way!:D

I have a 27' pace enclosed tandem axle trailer and so far it has worked out great. I love the little extra room up front for all the extra's you always bring along. I would spend the money on the enclosed one because it keeps the car cleaner and better protected while towing and when not in use it makes for great storage.

just add :G-Dub:

I have a 2007 Chevy Avalanche

Like I was taught in the military...you travel light, you travel right. GO ALUMINUM! I'm pulling a 25' v-nose behind my 2012 1/2 ton. Walls, floor and ceiling are 16" centers, 3500lb axles (each), brakes, etc......2700lbs total. 3500lb car and I'm well within my 10,000lb capacity of my little 5.3.

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps45c87e76.jpg
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w...psc273e245.jpg

What brand trailer is that?

My personal opinion is that you really should have at least a 2500 truck to pull an enclosed trailer. I tow a lot since I travel all over the country going to events, I've probably towed my trailer 100K miles since 2007 and there's been occasions I wished I had a dually, a 1500 might be fine on flat ground for short trips but throw in mountains, high winds, crappy roads and you'll wish you had the heavier duty truck. My experience has also been that the trailer companies give you inaccurate weights on the trailer and they weigh more than they state, I was told that my aluminum enclosed weighed 3,500#'s and when I weighed it it actually weighs 5,600#'s.

Trailer recommendations:

24 ft v-nose is the perfect size for a car and extra gear/equipment

Get at least 5,000/5,500# axles, the brakes/hubs are bigger and you'll have less trouble over the long run.

Imho a winch is invaluable, you can use it for loading and unloading your car and loading cars that don't run.

A generator is also very handy have.

I found the drivers side door to not be all that helpful since the issue is usually the car door hitting trailer fender well that causes the problem getting out of the car. I use my winch to load my car so I don't have to be a contortionist to get out the car once it's loaded.

The storage cabinets that typically come with the trailers are not the most efficient to use, they are basically an open cavity with a door on the front, no shelves, no draws, so everything ends up in a pile inside, my next trailer I'm buying it empty inside and buying moduline cabinets that fit my needs.

I have 3 trailers. A 20ft flatbed, 22ft all aluminum Trailex and a 28ft Cargo Craft. The flatbed is great, easy to load quickly, strapping the car down easily ect. The 28ft Cargo Craft is perfect for my race car, plenty of room for car, extra wheels, tools and pit bike. My favorite trailer is the Trailex. It's small, very light and very easy to load. It doubles as a place to sit and watch with plenty of ventilation if your at a car show or race. Since it's so light, you can pull it with a small SUV with ease. Just make sure you have enough truck to pull the trailer you choose.
http://www.fototime.com/18BBAF946F47A9D/xlarge.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/A3BFFF56ABF5C59/xlarge.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/F72328F01954F19/xlarge.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/EDC1CAD3EE88692/xlarge.jpg
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http://www.fototime.com/A4A1CCA318150C2/xlarge.jpg

Aluminum all the way! I have a 36 foot Legend that we use for snowmobiling and our cars . I had same trailer in steel it was like pulling a barge!

Anything less than 65' just won't be...... Okay just kidding.



A couple things to think about "in general" about a trailer.

Where you live and how nice your car is determines open or enclosed. In the NorthWET we need enclosed trailers.

Aluminum costs more - but you will probably either need an aluminum trailer or a new truck -- your choice.

Just because a truck is "rated" to pull "X" weight -- doesn't mean it will do so "well". Again -- depending on where you live. Hills and mountains need a truck with some grunt... FLATLANDERS can pull with a Volkswagon.

FANCY INTERIORS are a big money maker for the dealer - and a giant waste of money for the buyer. IT'S A TRAILER -- you load it -- close it up and park it. The car is the fancy part. So unless you just have to have a trailer with all the bells and whistles (they're nice - don't get me wrong - it's the way I buy stuff - but it IS NOT cost effective).

Side exit doors are fantastic.... the bigger the better IMHO (48")


24' foot for an ENCLOSED trailer ---- because with a trailer (enclosed) you want to take "stuff". So that gives you room for a rolling type toolbox to be bolted in -- or some cabinets for "stuff"... etc. Again - this depends on how you intend to use the trailer. I take longer trips - so want tools - tires - clothes - rags - spare stuff I will never need as long as I have the spare stuff.


A WINCH IS A MUST OWN ITEM for a trailer. Period. Car breaks -- winch it on -- a buddies car breaks - winch it on... loading and unloading the car -- WINCH IT ON AND OFF.... if you do that - then you don't really need an exit door... but they're nice to have. MAKE THE WINCH 'wireless remote control'..... that way you can steer the car from the bottom of the ramp and get 'er all lined up etc.


Trailers hold their value pretty well -- if they're taken care of. So buying a used one isn't a huge money saver - but there is no shortage of trailers - what there is is a huge difference in brand to brand and what you CAN spend on one. Super cheap poorly made and super expensive deluxe everything. It's your wallet. The cheap junk seems to get to the show just about the same as I do. Depends on how much you plan to use it. It's a value judgement and use issue.

Greg I think post#2 was for you.:captain1: :lol:

I pulled a 24' Haulmark enclosed with my Tundra which is supposed to be a 1500. Pulled it great up and down the large grades between here and Southern CA even in the Summer. Temp gauges never moved. You will need a brake controller.

I don't see the point of an open trailer unless you are going to local events. If you're not racing, you should be driving. Otherwise you need the weather break and security.

If you buy one with some cabinetry -- make sure they're DRAWERS.... And I personally found almost nothing useful with the overhead cabinets. Not much fit up there... The drawers held all manor of stuff.

I carried a very tiny air compressor -

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THO...130829142210:s

because my 2000 watt Honda would not start the "pancake style" (the type framers use for nail guns) version I have... the start load was just too much for it. LIGHT IS THE NAME OF THE GAME HERE... you're having to carry and store this stuff.


The light little Honda 2000 was/is a gem. I can make a pot of coffee -- charge a battery operated tool - run a battery charger -- lights - etc. Used it all the time.

Speaking of lights --- you see trailers with the big built in Halogen lights on the sides... in 15 years I used mine ONCE! Seriously... they're never where you need them - unless you're a professional race team in the pits... Portable lighting (great flashlight) is far more useful. Or use the little Honda to fire up a drop light.


Go to PITPAL PRODUCTS.... and deck out your trailer with strap hangers - jack storage - and anything else that needs to be stored. I love this stuff!


http://www.pitpal.com


These folks CALL YOU AFTER THE SHIPMENT TO SEE IF YOU GOT EVERYTHING AND THAT EVERYTHING IS ALL RIGHT! Amazing.


And go to and watch the videos of how to do things right at at Mac's Custom Tie Downs!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btRW...layer_embedded



I buy all my tie down stuff from them -- great products -- and the videos of how not to do things are most helpful.


http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com

Oh I got that..... but we had fun didn't we!?!?

:angel: :peepwall:

That's a good link GW, I'm going to buy a fresh set from them! Mine are getting a little old and frayed.

Questions on tying down that weren't exactly covered in that video,
Do you guys only tie to the suspension? or do you go to the frame and compress/preload the suspension? (I understood preloading and traveling that way to be very bad for the shocks?)

Do you x-over the straps to keep the car centered so it won't walk around in the trailer? (I don't always do it up front, but definitely in the rear because it seems to move around the most).


Jeff-


Jeff-

I bought a used 20 ft enclosed about 3 years ago...great investment. 24 ft would have been nice, but not required.

One other thing to consider that no one has mentions...where do you keep it? If you don't have a spot at home or a friend with land you can store it on, don't forget about the cost to have it at some storage facility. For awhile I had mine at a lot that charged $55/month for it to sit in an open fully paved lot. I didn't keep anything of value that could be hauled away in it, since a lot of these places have break ins.... So it was costing me $$ every month for it to just sit there...

My advice....go very basic and used, then add the little things yourself...winch is a must...and some storage but depends on what you are going to haul and do with it.....enclosed at a minimum of 20 ft, better if you can get 24...

Unless you are shooting for bragging rights, don't get all the fancy graphics, diamond plate, SS cabinets etc...... way better to use that $$ towards practical stuff

And don't scrimp on the tow vehicle...when it comes to towing "good enough" will come back and bite you in the ass...

Personally I use straps with D rings on both ends - run those THRU THE WHEELS --- and then strap to them. I only buy the "direct hook" straps so the jack handle is close to the tie down ring. My older straps that didn't have that direct hook -- they sell a conversion kit. Once you've used them - it's the only way to go! And thru the wheels (with a cover on the strap that they sell) is So FRIGGING EASY! I don't even have to lay down to do it! (not that kind of do it either you morons! LOL)


Otherwise I go over the axle or some part of the suspension... I NEVER go to the frame. The suspension will allow the car to float and bounce up and down and ride nice while keeping the car in place. Tie to the frame and hit a big bump and the car is jerking and yanking on the straps! That's a no no.

I never cross the straps unless that's the only way I have to --- they chafe on each other --- AND --- should one get loose or break - the other strap is then pulling the car to the side rather than straight back (or forward). The car is going to move FORWARD in breaking --- that's the big load.... so I want that tight as hell ---- and straight pull back to the floor tie downs.


I also put my cars in neutral so as not to be stressing the transmissions..... even thought they shouldn't be moving fore or aft -- you're pre-loading the parking pall or the gears when you're strapping them in.

Thanks for the tips. I don't plan on getting a new truck so ill look for an aluminum trailer.

Probably one of the most important things to me is the height of the rear opening. Not to be confused with ceiling height. I used an enclosed trailer for years for my lawn business. The rear opening was 72 inches high. I am 74 inches high. If I was hot, sweaty, tired, frustrated, beat, exhausted, distracted, and I went bee-bopping up the ramp without tilting my head slightly... I would get a nice little goose egg right on the crown of my thick skull. I hit the floor seeing stars on more than one occasion. You guys that are under 6ft have it made!!


Jeff-

I've only owned open trailers and have towed all over the western states this way. The thing with an open trailer, besides the weather, is everyone wants to talk about the car on deck. Sometimes it's a lot of fun and leads to finding more projects. :confused59:

With a 1/2ton I'd go as light as you can afford and something that is more than just a box like the V nose. I live up in the Seattle area and am surrounded by hills and mountains. My 1500 Silverado will do what ever I want it to but it's working pretty hard with an enclosed. You'll notice if the winds blowin! I had a warmed up Powerstroke that didn't care what it was pulling, up or down a hill, didn't matter. I miss that truck.

Anyone have a camera mounted to keep an eye on the inside of the trailer while underway?

:thumbsup:
Dan

is that all.................. you done now???? :BlahBlah: :BlahBlah: lmao

I have a 26' v nose, wouldn't go any smaller, by the time you load your junk in it tool box jack tent chairs ect you will be out of room.
put a winch in it FOR SURE, that is why we built in the tow/tie down loops on the subframe. I HATE trying to climb in and out of the car window when in the trailer,
I tow with a 1 ton diesel Dually wouldn't do it any other way.(well that is a lie if I could do it the way GREG does it that would be better I don't need sway bars on the hitch super stable. and Ask GREG how it tows on the grapevine lol
I think the dually is the only way to go both for safety and stability, it does not overload the tires and the brakes are much bigger, oh and the power and fuel mileage is usually better,

Stielow had this brand of trailer on his facebook page this past year.
http://www.montrosetrailers.com/ He wanted one that he could pull with his 1/2 ton truck.

Jeff




Here is another brand that is more aerodynamic, but I suspect it is costly.

http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc...e=car_trailers

That's worth a repost :lmao: :lmao:

:cheers:

it took me a reread of your repost for me to get it :lmao:

Are these decent? They are around 6K new for a 20 ft

http://www.interstatecargo.com/carhauler.php#overview

I'm just going to add one more thing -- now that you've posted asking about Interstate as a brand....


Just shoot me if you want to -- but I don't think ANY OF US can wear out a trailer of ANY brand.... I've drug mine all over the place without issue (regular maintenance!).... and I don't think I could live long enough to actually wear it out.


How much towing you going to do?? Seriously -- 4 or 5 thousand miles a year??

Id guess 1000 miles a year.

I have an interstate, bought it in 08 from a guy that bought it new 4 months prior then lost his storage space.

good trailer but even better since there are 2 dealer/service centers close to us.

get the 24 footer....you'll thank me later.

buy used....did you see this one?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/4034620978.html

hell i'll sell you mine and buy that one. :y0!:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/4027546617.html

[QUOTE=Vince@MSperfab;502194]buy used....did you see this one?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/4034620978.html

Now that's a deal!

I too -- would shop used FIRST.... because these really are just a box on wheels .... but remember they can live at the coast etc and if they're steel - they can and do rust up! Also -- there's no odometer on a trailer... so service items such as wheel bearing and brakes and the AGE of the tires is important!


ALWAYS check the dates on the tires.... NO MORE THAN 6 years old -- so if they're already 5 years old - you're going to be replacing a set shortly.


Brakes on this size trailer are almost always electric... if the trailer doesn't get used much - or has been sitting - they can be rusted up and not working well.


WHEEL BEARINGS are a critical item! Overlook them and you can have a big trailer fire and lose everything... I almost lost my load when pulling my brother in laws POS trailer to AriDzona. Their trailer was a POS pile of junk but my '32 Ford isn't. It was real real close to bursting into flames. Lesson learned there.


So here's what I'm trying to tell ya --- IF you buy used --- plan to spend $500 plus on it IMMEDIATELY at a dealer getting it serviced and road worthy. More if you have to replace tires.

Please do yourself a HUGE favor and DO NOT buy a 20' ENCLOSED trailer....



24' minimum for an enclosed. YOU WILL THANKS ALL OF US LATER.