Idler arm fail, bigger tyres the issue?
 

Just replaced the idler arm in my 68 Camaro, it failed in the main bush (not the one that bolts to centrelink). Not quite 4 years and approx 10,000 miles on it.

Never been auto-crossed or raced.

Would this short life span be due to upgraded suspension and bigger tyres?

YEP! fat tires KILL suspension parts, I Daily drive, race and autocross, I replaced one last year and another this year so thats one every year or about 12,000 miles, I used a brand called Rare parts the first time and a MOOG the second time! everything else is upgraded to some of the best in the industries, but no one makes an upgraded idler arm

its because the steering system on a Camaro sucks, its behind the wheels (rear steer) so it takes the impact forces harder, that's why all after market frames move the steering to in front of the wheels, even GM figured it out and the 2nd gen Camaros have the the steering moved to the front also (front steer)

Thanks, for reply, gives me a distance frame to work with.

Mine was a MOOG, replaced by another.

I'll put it on my check regularly list. Anyone else have any historical data on idler arm wear?

How close are your headers to the idler arm?

Side note...if anyone in the US has a failed aftermarket idler arm, we would love to get our hands on it.

I'd like to see 3 examples so we can evaluate to see what we can learn...if anyone is interested, I'll trade them a brand new Proforged idler arm. I'll even cover your shipping both ways.

Send us an email at [email protected].

Zack, I have a failing idler on my 72 Nova which I think is a Moog if you would be interested in that; I'll shoot you guys an email too.

Absolutely - please send us an email with your shipping address.

Zack, you want a loose 2nd gen arm? Just replaced one in a 79 camaro

At least 3/4".

Attachment 42703

cheers

Roger - You've got all kinds of space!

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Very true, the braking loads on rear steer cars push up on the idler arm. Most, if not all idler arms have plastic inserts which don't hold up well near header tubes. Moog used to make an optional HD idler, I had one on my Camaro. Also Guldstrand used to sell adjustable lower ball joints!

We've had no issues with Mary's second gen, but it's not street driven much. It has had a zillion autocross laps though!

Sure. Is it aftermarket?

David - do you have a part # on this?

Want 4x4 S10 stuff?

I have like 3 of these in my scrap bin... My ZR2 eats them.

We're good on the S10 stuff...it has really died off in recent years. The economy really took a bite out of that market.

Appreciate the offer.

No, I have an old Moog catalog, but it starts at 1971. I do still have the idler arm. I think it had a nut on the bottom, & bolted to an L bracket off the frame rail.

The replacement pitman arms have similar plastic inserts. They wear very quickly when used in high-load situations.

Here's a bronze replacement for the plastic insert. So far it has four years of serious abuse and shows zero signs of wear. When the time comes for the idler arm I'll go either the Proforged route or make something similar.

http://imageshack.com/a/img708/5558/io9l.jpgUploaded with ImageShack.com

should be a moog, i will check

Who makes the bronze replacement bushing? Are the Proforged idler arms currently made with the bronze bushing?

Our arms are not currently made with a bronze bushing. We are very interested in this, too - Carl...who makes that?

me too!!:poke: my car gets driven very hard!! I would interested in a HD version of what I have or a rebuildable design :gitrdun:

I was thinking Delrin but looked up the thermal properties and they appear to be on the low side for tight exhaust clearance with high loads: http://www.sdplastics.com/delrin/delrin[1].pdf

I removed the GM Pitman arm and installed the Moog K6099 replacement Pitman arm on the car today and the Moog arm compressed against the header as it was tightened to the frame. The OEM arm had just over .25" clearance.

A bronze replacement bushing for rebuilding the OEM arm would be real nice in my situation.

Doug's D368 headers, GM OEM motor mount perches, Moroso 62150 solid mounts.

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It's a MOOG.

I made it on a lathe. It was a bit tricky getting the length just right so that the end cap did not over or under-preload the bushing/pin axially.

The grooves in the bore and face are for lubrication.

The cap was welded back on taking care to keep it seated square.

Carl - Was it a factory arm that you installed the bushing in?

Great - shoot us an email with your address!

Moog replacement.