Just had my ls swap and had a few questions.
 

Hey guys, I just recently had my LS swap completed and I had a few questions. So the set up is a 69 camaro with an ls1 t56 set up. The motor has 241 heads and a mild cam. The t56 is a stock t56 with a ripper b&m shifter. The reason for my question is I had my ls installed and have some questions about tuning, and the difference between a 4 speed muncie clutch, and a t56 clutch? For one my car runs kinda weird and I was curious if the lack of tune was responsible for this issue. Next the clutch feels rather odd, I have the luk high performance clutch kit. I heard really good things about this clutch so I dont think thats it. It is difficult to get into first from neutral, I stall out alot. This may also be due to my lack of tune but I felt I should ask the experts for their thoughts. When I had my muncie 350 combo I struggled some with shifting also, maybe I need to get used to driving a v8 stick set up. Let me know what you guys think.

If it has a cam and headers, and the computer isn't for a manual transmission car... you definitely need a tune.

What size cam?
I assume you kept the MAF sensor?
Do you know what temp the efan turns on/off?
How do you know it is even has a safe tune?

A new clutch will require a few hundred miles of in town driving to break in a little.... 1000 miles it should be fully broken in.

It does have Dynotech headers and a cam, the cam specs are 230/236 on a 112 lsa. I think the computer maybe for an automatic but I am not sure. It has a different maf sensor, it has the 5 pin maf sensor. The fans turn on, I am not sure if it is safe to tune but I assume so. What are some reasons it would not be safe to tune? I guess my question with the clutch is will the tune make coming out of first easier where i dont have to hit the gas so hard? Like I said the 4 speed clutch was difficult but easier than the t56 clutch, I never stalled that much with that one.

Def need a tune with that cam. & yes i can see it being a bitch on take off if tune is off. I wouldn't run it hard in case its running lean in upper rpm range. Driveability is toughest part to tune. That's a fairly decent sized cam for stock ls1. Even with tune you'll need to give it little bit of throttle when letting clutch out from dead stop. Spend the money on a good tuner it will be worth it and be right the first time.

Ok, that makes sense. I was told the cam was not really all that big. After hearing it in the car it does sound rather radical even with no exhaust . I was gonna go straight to paint but I think I am gonna get exhaust, tune, then I can drive the car to wherever I have to instead of towing it.

It sounds like you also need the clutch adjusted if you're having trouble going from neutral to first.

Definitely get it to a competent tuner, and don't beat in it till then.

Anthony,

Good to hear on the progress! Quick questin is teh clutch a Ls1 or Ls7 style, and did the kit include flywheel, etc/ Have you tried contacting Luke Perf on the clutch? Also before going into the tune direction some steps you can check to make sure the system does not have any other issues.

Was the clutch a complete kit, and new, never installed? The reason I ask is because LS7 style clutches behave differently from LS1 clutches and will need to be "reset" before installing.

With the car off, with the clutch pressed are you getting decent resistance and return? With multiple presses, any changes?

With the engine on, does it change dramatically? Was the slave bled correctly, and which one did you use? Drill modded or not?

I am assuming the install, orientation of clutch disk, bleeding, etc are all good.

Good luck, Gui

This question is a bit from left field, but what did you put in the transmission for fluid?

I was told by many sources that using any synthetic ATF fluid...or basically anything, but the Dex III the tag called for can cause shifting difficulties in and out of first and reverse.

Thanks Gui, the clutch I picked was the ls1 luk clutch kit I asked about previously. I am getting the car back later this week and can try some of the suggestions you had previously. Today I will text you some picture updates.


I dont remember. It was 100% synthetic I remember that much. I will check and find out. The trans doesnt feel stiff tho.

230/236 on a 112 LSA? That's pretty big with lots of overlap. The MAF if your running one won't be to happy if it's anywhere close to the throttle body and the MAP sensor, it's not happy at all at idle Ill bet. A good tuner can work around most of this where do you live?

I live in San Leandro Northern California. If you look at my photobucket you can see how my set up is. I was going to have Rick from synergy in Fremont California. I have heard really good things about that place.

Full synthetic fluid can cause the T56 paper blocker rings to swell and make it difficult to shift into and out of first and reverse...

Just google "T56 Synthetic fluid" and start reading.

Ok I think I have resolved my issue with my car, I think anyway. So I drove it yesterday just real quick, didnt get through 4th. However it drove really well and that surprised me. No issues coming out of first and it accelerated good. Then after I stopped and examined my car, I tried to take off again and had the similar issue that made me make this thread. I realized however the emergency brake was on and this time in particular thats what caused me to have issues getting rolling without the car stalling out. I am hoping that this was the issue and a dyno tune will remedy any other bugs my car may have. I know I sound like a duffus but I wanted to at least share that the car was running and shifting 10 times better.

I had shifting issues in my swap. The input shaft wasn't shimmed properly, and i'm running the same clutch setup as you. My guy who helped me with the swap is a very good LS tech, but hes slammed and a one man band, I'm in Livermore.

Keep us posted on the results, and let me know if you have any questions.
Also, show us some pics...buildthread? Mike

I know mike, I really want to do a build thread but am not really sure how to make the pictures fit. I have a MacBook, also I have posted every single pic I have of my car on photobucket. There are even. Few videos of it being driven with the ls motor and when I first got my rs light conversion done on the car. I just need to know how up post to this site so I can create a build thread. My photobucket page link is in my signature. Thanks for the support mike. I hope you see me at some car shows this year at some point.

Its super duper easy, postin pics that is. Just have your photobucket window open while your doing your post and following the instructions. Basically, just use the [img] icon and it self load and seems to self size....

Born and Raised in San Leandro, Manor, Floresta Gardens, the family business on Marina from '61 to '07, and family (lots) up off of Bancroft from the 60's to the 90's....still have lots of friends and connections there....

Thanks Mike, I am gonna try that later today. We are almost from the same area, when my car is driveable we should link up or something. How does thats sound?

Anthony great to hear. Back on Mike's note, you can also enter the "tags" manually.

Copy the address of the pic:

http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/69...5a79.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y513/69greyghost/IMG_3253_zpsd04c5a79.jpg


and add [XXXimg] on the front of the address - minus the XXX

and then [XXX/img] at the end of the address:

[XXXimg]http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/69greyghost/media/IMG_3253_zpsd04c5a79.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y513/69greyghost/IMG_3253_zpsd04c5a79.jpg[XXX/img]

remove the XXX on both and you will see the picture embedded:

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...psd04c5a79.jpg

I feel like a dumb ass, I cant get this right!I give up, am I supposed to put it in the attachment part?

No worries, just inline as you are posting. Look at my note above.

I.e. type your reply then copy the location of the image like http://wahteverpicture.jpg then ad the [imgxxx]http://wahteverpicture.jpg[/imgxxx]

remove the xxx on the IMG tag above

Gui

Rick is a great tuner! He would be my choice to get the job done. Rick tuned our C5 Z06 back in 2003 never any issues with that tune passed smog and ran better than most of the C5s in WSCC competition. Rick picked up 21HP from GM tune with his efforts. I live. By Ricks shop.....used to be driving home from work and I would see a C5/6 Vette sounded good, then at the stoplight I would see Rick inside checking the laptop...looking for results. Rick is a cut above the average tuner and has paid his dues. My LS3 build will be visiting Synergy when it's up and running. Rick not only has an accurate chassis dyno but, goes the extra yard in driving the car after dyno tuning to check all the performance. He probably has such a huge data base of his past efforts by now that he doesn't do as much real world prefecting of tune but, in the old days I know your money would buy you 3-4hours of earnest hard work and effort from really talented tuner. I was looking at a friends C5 LS3 swap that Rick had tuned and noticed a few tricks Rick had done to smooth out the big cam that was in that motor. Rick is one of the best!