SpeedTech or RideTech?
 

I've pretty much decided between these two companies for suspension on my TA. I'm not worried about quality of the components or the companies. What I wondering is how about the other stuff like exhaust routing options or difficulty. Which can have the car the lowest while still having good suspension travel? Which can work with my 10 bolt easiest? Are the front suspension designs significantly different? Anything else I should know or take into consideration before deciding which route to choose?

Edit: I'm keeping my stock front subframe in case that wasn't clear. I'm looking mainly at the Grand Touring kit from SpeedTech and Ride Techs equivalent'.


Thanks

Speedtech with Ridetech shocks you cant go wrong with that...trust me

Trey both good companies but Speed Tech would be my first choice. If I could do it over again I would do Speed Tech hands down!!

I'm currently looking at these two as well. I'm personally thinking of sticking with a stock sub and going ridetech as I don't think I would ever get my money's worth out of the speedtech sub frame. I don't think mine will make it to the track but once a year if I'm really lucky but I want a good handling car. My current opinion is that ridetech fits that bill fairly well. Plus I can get both the front and rear suspension for less than a complete speedtech front sub

Then again, I could be talked into the speedtech still as well, and I need to call them and clear up some things.

I have a ridetech front end kit on my car with the arms, spindles, coilovers and Im planning to get the true turn kit. I have the speedtech torque arm on the rear with ride tech coilovers. I liked the ride tech front setup better with the stock subframe and I liked the speedtech torque arm over the ridetech 4 link.

I race the Ridetech setup twice a month sometimes more, always one of the fastest cars on track




???why?? just curious

Rod, I know you're a 1st gen but how difficult was routing the exhaust? Any reason you can think it would be different for me?

I appreciate the responses everyone. Please, keep them coming. I'm quite a ways out from doing anything, maybe later this year, so I have time.

OBeer, I think you'll be fine keeping your front subframe. I know the 1st gens aren't as good as 2nd gens from the factory, but based on how you think you'll be driving, I see no reason to spend the extra money on a new subframe. I consider myself to be in the same boat, and I intend to keep my factory subframe.

Thanks

the Ridetech setup is a triangulated 4link, the same setup design that was used by gm on the chevelle from 1964 to whenever they stopped making the car, even my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee has the same triangulated 4link setup design, putting exhaust on a 4 link Camaro or TA is no different than any of those factory stock cars, every muffler shop can do it, should be pretty easy for them


personally I drove mine with the exhaust fully over the axle for 1 month and the drone KILLED me, so I had the shop cut the over the axle tubes off and now I run the exhaust turn downs before the axle and no drone, that was on 2.5 dia exhaust

Thanks Rod. That's interesting you had more drone with the pipes over the axle.

Our black 71 Camaro (if anyone remembers this car) had the exhaust run under the axle.
SUPER easy to install.
Nothing rubbed or hit.
All was good!
http://www.ridetech.com/garage/1971-camaro/

I know there are pics out there in cyber space of the exhaust on this car as this has been asked many, many times, but I didn't find them in the 3.4 seconds I took to look.

I liked that I was able to get it with all the tabs already welded to the axle from currie. Plus it looked like it freed up some room to run the exhaust above the axle. Im running ride tech shocks with with speedtech torque arm though.

Lots of good questions there.
Exhaust. I think Ours has more clearance above the Axle due to the fact that there are no upper arms to contend with, BOTH will need custom tail pipes. I know you can fit 3" in ours and if it is built correctly they will not contact the axle prior to the axle contacting the floor or frame. We always use the cut and weld method when building our tail pipes. more labour intensive but you get a much better fitting part.

Ride height. I think you will find that both will get you the ride height you are looking for. the 1 advantage of the Torque arm is you really don't need to worry about the pinion angle. because there is no change during the travel. so you can adjust the ride height and not have to readjust the pinion angle one it is initially set.

Rear end. the 10 bolt poses a bit of an issue for us as you would need to modify the 12bolt front billet mount to fit the 10 bolt. we have the rear mounting ring it is just the front probably 2 hours of work and some aluminum welding (sorry) if your budget allows I would consider a 9" we can build one any width with the brackets already installed THEN the housing is straightened including 31 spline axles ford Nodular center section, TrueTrak diff, Timken Bearings ready to bolt together (the third member is assembled)
the 9" allows more floor clearance due to the pinion location being lower and further back plus it's cheaper than a 12 bolt.

Front suspension design. Almost identical. Our Chicane coil over mount is a big advantage and lets you run a longer shock and spring if you thinking of going that way.

I also have my exhaust ran under the axle no issues at all

Thanks for the info, Blake. I appreciate the detailed info.