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hard line to an fittings
I 'm getting ready to run my fuel lines and would like to run stainless 1/2 as much as I can to a Teflon braided line to the LS connection as well as the fuel pump and filters. Whats the best way to do this, the LS is FI so 60-70PSI required. Build below, thanks
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=44704 |
Its simple, you will need a 37* flaring tool, tube nut, tube nut sleeve, and an union fitting. for the hose side, you just need to buy the appropriate hose and fitting that you can assemble, or measure how long you need it and have a shop crimp a set of ends on.
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This is what I use to go from hard line to AN. Probably not the most elegant solution but they work:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...tube%20fitting Don |
thanks I knew about the 37 degree flare I was wondering if there is another solution besides flaring. I would imagine it would not be as secure
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I think something like this would also work:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5182k457/=taj967 I was going to use them since you don't need to flare anything but decided just to use PTFE lined braided hose instead of hard line. These are rated for 2,100 PSI so they should be pretty secure. |
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Don |
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That's what steered me towards the yorlok and swagelok style fittings like I linked above before I ultimately just went with PTFE lined braided hose. I know for a fact the yorlok and swagelok fittings hold tight on stainless as we use them with stainless tubing in high pressure tester applications where I work. |
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Any particular reason you are wanting stainless? 1/2" stainless isn't a whole lot of fun to work with. |
That is a compression style fitting. I am sure they work fine, but not what I prefer to use.
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As I said not the most elegant solution but flaring 1/2 inch stainless is something that I can't image being all that easy to do depending on the flaring tool you have. Your fittings were $30 each if I read it correctly. That gives me a little heartburn... :lol: Don |
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The horse shoe style Russel to GM fuel connections are fine I think. It's the snap lock ones that are an accident waiting to happen. http://www.russellperformance.com/mc...injected.shtml The first ones in the above link (push on) are the junk. The second ones (threaded cap) are OK. I agree about the flaring in my experience anyway. You have to buy an expensive flaring tool to make things come out right. The cheap tools like the one I have suck. I can't make a flare seal for my life with mine. P.S. I know what you mean about the heartburn. I junkyard dive or find the cheapest stuff that will work whenever I can. Fuel stuff though, I ponied up the cash for what I needed. I'm pretty sure my plumbing cost more than my tanks inc fuel tank. |
Thanks for the input, if I flared it I would take it to a machine shop to do so, hardly worth the $$to get a flare tool to flare two ends.
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You're in need of some "FLARE SAVERS" --- copper "gaskets" that go between the male and female and they're softer so mate better. Yes -- the "proper" 37* flaring tools are expense... I think the tapered roller bearing version I have was like $450... The flare savers are FAR less....LOL http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com...agename=flrsav |
How about a -8AN fitting to 1/2"-20 which is on the end of SS fuel line?
Thanks |
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