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Ordered a DirectLift Propark 8
Just ordered a DirectLift pro park 8. For those of you that have one do you regret not buying the optional jack? I did not get that but now Im wondering if I am ever going to need it in case I want to swap wheels or something. .
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If you're talking about the pro jack, that lifts the front or rear of the car off the 4 post lift, it's my favorite thing other than the lift itself. I would never go without it, as it makes it so much easier for brakes, removing wheels/tires, anything that involves getting the car off the lift.
Charley has one of those jacks too, and I'd guess he'd say the same. http://www.directlift.com/Assets/projack3500Main.jpg |
The bridge jack in not necessary but it sure is convenient. Just be careful and watch your head. I hit my head on my jack about once a month. Don't pay what direct lift wants for the jack. Derrick Weaver sells it for $550.
http://www.derekweaver.com/rodders-g...-4-post-lifts/ |
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Don |
A must have for a 4 post lift. Works great.
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thanks everyone. Looks like I will add the jack.
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I have that center jack and consider it a must. Use it all the time!
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Here's another addition to a four post lift that does not cost much but makes it so much better to work on the underside of the car.
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=48550 |
A four post lift isn't very functional without a jack. Do yourself a favor and buy a 2 post. :)
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I agree, I just prefer a 2 post for a majority of work. Four posts just get in the way constantly. Look at any auto shop, the only rack in the place that is a four post is the alignment rack.
For storage and small projects, 4 post. |
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John that rocks! Let me know if you need any info on modifying the garage door. I actualy just replaced my garage door spring last night, so good opportunity to go through everything again.
Did you buy the lift from Barry in Hayward? They are great to work with. Gui |
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You can park under the 2 post as well.
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I'm posting this reply because LOTS of people read these threads. Being "stable" is lift dependent.... a cheap 4 post rack is a cheap 4 post rack - same as a cheap 2 post. My buddy was almost killed and destroyed 3 cars when the 4 post in his shop collapsed. The COWL should line up with the 2 post uprights in an Asymmetric lift. That's pretty easy to do... When I'm doing any work that will require "shaking" --- or any work such as lifting a transmission into place - or fussing with a rear end (on my hydraulic air driven tranny jack) I place adjustable under lift safety stands under the vehicle so that I don't accidentally push the car right off the lift! It's easy to be concentrating on the job at hand and not realize you're lifting the car! http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...and-60759.html Sometimes a buddy will come over so we can check their suspension settings and we'll use the tranny jack to lift and drop the rear end looking for bind or listening for noises etc.... and these stabilizers really come in handy for that! |
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Agreed, Greg. The car should be lowered onto the locks and a support utilized when you remove major weight or shake the car. The reason you lower them onto the locks is one side can lose hydraulic pressure and that can get ugly. Especially when it's for an extended time. I worked as a line tech for a few years and saw 1000's of cars lifted on two posts. I can recall 2-3 that ever fell off. All operator error... |
No I don't regret not ordering the jack...probably because I have a Rotary 2 post to do work on, the 4 post is for storing cars:lol:
I couldn't afford to pour my 8" thick garage floor of "6sack" concrete today (required for strength for the 2 post lift) I still remember the big concrete pumping rig showing up in my neighborhood to do the pour...guy asks me can I pull onto your driveway? Hell No! You'll crack it! was my response, the guy at the end of the hose was having a bad day, he fell about 3 times during the pour. |
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