Brake line size?
 

I am getting ready to order some Copper Nickel brake line to bend up for my 69 Firebird track car. Stock lines were 3/16" to each front corner and on the rear end for the rear corners. The long run from the master to the rear was 1/4". Should I stick with these sizes for my manual 6/4 piston Willwod setup. or would all 3/16" be fine?

All 3/16 the old 1/4 was for drum brakes.

Thanks. I seen that Mark S used all 3/16" on the Mule...according to his build book.

If you do ABS do 1/4 to the ABS module then 3/16 to the corners.

Mark

ABS?....that's a good one!!!:D

I just finished my build and use all 3/16 copper nickel lines. Corvette C6 ZO6 Brakes with a Wilwood MC and Prop valve no booster.

Car stops great

:thumbsup: no power assist is the way to go. Less headaches.

I stopped using that copper stuff, way to soft for my liking. Plus 3/16" steel tubing is easy enough to bend and flare.

I just picked up a 25' roll of copper nickel 3/16" on Amazon for 29.99 shipped. I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on an eastwood flaring tool. Ron Sutton set up my manual braking system and supplied all Wilwood parts, so I don't think stopping will be a problem at the track!

Which wilwood mc did you use?

The "accepted standard" for manual brakes is to use a 7/8" MC.... The 7/8" will make all the pressure you'll need and has the volume as well. The 1" will give you a firmer pedal feel - but will require more leg effort.

Make sure you understand what pedal ratio is - how to measure it - and then correct your pedal if required. It should be 6:1 for a manual brake car.

A primer on pedal ratio can be found here:


http://www.wilwood.com/m/techtip/Tec...aspx?id=7&no=3

15/16" bore MC is also quite popular and common for manual brakes. I ran that for years.

Andrew

Greg,
Thank you for the recommendation and link.

I would get in contact with Ron Sutton. He can evaluate your whole system and make the proper recommendations. Buying the right parts the first time will wave you a lot of headaches and money! I ended up changing my brakes at all 4 corners after we figured out that system wouldn't generate to braking force I would need for the track. I had purchased stuff I had seen written up in Popular Hotrodding, Hot Rod, etc. I probably would have bent my car up the first time at the track with the old system....live and learn!

Anyone share pictures of a line routing with an aftermarket subframe? Looking for some good ideas and or examples..