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Baer Brake bracket on ridetech spindle
Anyone have a picture of a baer brake bracket mounted to a ridetech spindle with true turn what to make sure i use the correct hardware. ridetech included 2 bolts but I am not sure what to use for the second mounting holes?
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/ |
so the baer kit came with a 3' and 2.75" bolt for the braket. as you can see the 2.75" bolt is going to hit the posi link when I turn. is it safe to run a 2" bolt on this braket? i will keep the 3" at the tie rod end
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D550/ry%3D400/ https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/ |
so I am running the 2" bolts with nylock nuts torqued to 85 ft lb's per baer instructions. My question is are these long enought, this is how it looks torqued down should I look to run a little bit longer bolts? this is what holds the caliper bracket to the spindle. thanks
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/ |
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Tobin KORE3 |
I can get a photo tonight.
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I just realized I put non-locking nuts on for all the fit-up work. Once I put a tall self-locking nut on there it will probably look the same. I think I will just buy a shorter all-metal locknut when I do the final install. I agree that good practice is to have 1.5 - 2 threads past the locking feature.
Scott http://i.imgur.com/9UcEIsPl.jpg |
Thanks Guys, I will go up on my bolt size and check to make sure it does not interfere with the posi link.
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2 thread is the magic number to ensure the locking feature of the nut is working or engaged. Those bolts look to short especially for a nylon lock.
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So the shorter bolt was 2 inches this is a 2 1/4. much better getting through the nut but very close on full lock. a 2 1/8 would be perfect i think. anyone know someone that make custom bolts?
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/ https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/ |
You won't need a customer bolt here. There are several styles of all-metal locknuts that are shorter than the nylon insert style that came with the kit. If you cut the bolt down it will rust where you are missing the plating. I would just go to the local hardware store and find a shorter locknut.
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You can use a "top lock" nut as SlowProgress suggested or no lock nut with red loctite with the shorter bolt. You can get them in flanged or not flanged in various materials and coatings https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/37278
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That looks perfect!
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I could only get to the fronts easily. The LF is around .155 and the RF is around .164. So I wouldn't worry if you are somewhere in that range.
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So this is how it looks with the spacers in place, I will clearly need more to even out the sides. but adding more will pull the mounting bolt out even more
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/ https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/ |
There is almost no runout on the brake rotor so miss is as good as a mile but let me measure and snap a photo of mine tonight.
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Here is a photo of mine with some feeler gauges. I just snugged up a couple lugnuts.
http://i.imgur.com/PczWv4el.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/8inMJmcl.jpg Ended up being around .102 |
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I live in the Phoenix area and I did go by Baer one day and picked up a couple of spare shims packs because I could not mix and match to get the centering where I wanted it. I think I ended up centered within a few thousandths, both top and bottom. The first one was slow but it got quicker with practice.
Scott |
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