![]() |
Air compressor help
Hey guys, I bought a Ingersoll Rand SS3L3 3HP 60Gal compressor for basic air tools and occasional cutoff/grinder use.
I'm in need of suggestions on budget dryer/regulators & line size. The outlet is 1/2" should I keep all the lines to the air tool 1/2" or reduce it down to 3/8? If so should it be reduced right out of the tank or after the dryer/regulator? Are the 1 piece regulator/dryers ok or should it be a 2 piece type? Thanks |
I'd personally run a 1/2"line....as for the rest,whats the manual say
|
1/2" the whole way. Check out TP tools for some of the parts you are looking for.
|
A helpful tip, mount the dryer as far away from the compressor as you can. I think they recommend 15' this allows the air to cool and moisture to condense before reaching the dryer. Mine is mounted about 10' because I was limited in my garage.
|
I run a "toilet paper" type oil/water separator... basically a cartridge style that holds a filter about the size of a roll of toilet paper. If I'm going to need really dry air - 1/2% of the time - I use a desiccant hose in line ahead of my spray equipment.
http://www.amazon.com/DeVilbiss-1305.../dp/B000UZPPKA This is plumbed permanently in line...... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o02_s00 Otherwise I just run a deadhead line with a valve that extends beyond the regulators... open that once in awhile and blow the little bit of condensation out (in addition to daily opening the condensate valve on the bottom of the compressor tank). |
I don't have the manual, it was purchased from a estate sale. I'm going to see if I can print it from Ingersolls site.
Anybody use something like this? http://m.northerntool.com/products/s...?hotline=false |
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o02_s00
Wow.... Thats interesting Greg, Ive never seen a inline that actually uses a roll of TP. FYI the PDF of the owners manual doesn't say anything about setup of lines or dryer/regulator. |
Quote:
|
Quote:
My mistake -- I saw the "join date" and thought the post was from 2007. I corrected my post. Sorry!!! LOL |
Quote:
It's not a roll of toilet paper - it just looks like that and the size is about the same. It takes a special filter.... and I just buy 6 at a time off Amazon and change 'em out every couple months depending on how much I've used the compressor. The filter cartridge: http://www.amazon.com/Motor-Guard-M-...QYQKMQ3EV65A8G |
I run the M-60 filter also, and I do use TP in mine. I keep a 12 pack of Charmin in my shop...unbeatable for those moments when you run out in the house.
I change my roll out every week in the summer, and by then it's pretty wet. Of course here in Georgia, the humidity is 150% in the summertime. Every compressor setup is different. This is why your manual won't have instructions as to what to use for filters, dryers, etc. Totally depends on what your using the unit for, length of daily runtime, and where you are located geographically. Temperature and humidity has a big affect on compressed air quality. |
I wonder what the flow rate of the tp is?? Never thought about using it but maybe I'll give it a try. The humidity rate in Sun Valley is like next to nothing.
|
Greg, What do you suggest on 1/2" vs 3/8"? Should I reduce it down? Before or after the filter/regulator?
|
I just plumbed my compressor with 1/2" and mounted the filter/regulator next to the compressor. Is that incorrect?
Kevin |
I use long (roughly 50') upward sloping lines of 3/4 copper with a couple of drops to drain the moisture. Copper dissipates the heat allowing the moisture to condense. I place my filter and regulator at the end of the run. I get very little moisture that gets to the filter even in humid weather. I use shark bite connectors to make the installation easy.
Neck it down to 1/2 for your regulator and filter at the end, not the start of your runs. Don |
Quote:
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
I'd run 1/2" copper and only reduce where absolutely required. Get regulator with 1/2" in and out if possible - the MP60 is 1/2" in and out. Watch the pressure max on your copper -- cheap stuff is pretty thin walled.... and you need your plumbing to EXCEED the pressure capacity of your tank. Some people plumb with Schedule 40 PVC plastic pipe.... but that's not for me -- if that crap shatters for some reason - and you're in the path of the splinters - you can't xray and find the pieces! LOL I don't know if that's true or not - but I'm still not plumbing my stuff in plastic. |
Quote:
I'd plumb in schedule 40 black pipe or galvanized |
Quote:
The problem with using galvanized or black pipe is that the pipe rusts internally and then the rust gets into your tools. There's no way to keep condensation out of the pipe system unless you have an expensive "dryer".... 1/2" Copper tubing - schedule M - has an internal working pressure rating of 387 PSI (M is the thin wall stuff). Our little home compressors aren't capable of making that kind of pressure - So I think it's pretty dang safe. My personal shop is all plumbed in 1" L rated copper tubing (main lines). |
I won't be setting it up permenatlly yet as we might be moving in the near future. It's reduced to 3/8 right after the 1/2" exit port right now, but since I need to order a dryer/regulator I will go up to 1/2".
You suggest going 1/2" to the tool? |
Quote:
I go to a hose reel --- and that is down to 3/8" -- and I run my tools off that. You could go right off a regulator to an air hose that would be long enough to let you run around your garage... it really doesn't have to be that dang fancy and particularly if you're not staying where you are. |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:21 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net