Forgeline wheel question
 

Hey, was wondering if you can separate the wheel from the rim, is there any adhesive between the wheel and rim.

What may the torque values be?

Torque sequence, square pattern?

Reason, powder coating the centers black.

If too much of a pain, i'll just remove the tires anyway.

http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/...6748EC70C0.jpg
http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/...57F8BC86DE.jpg

Forgeline wheel question
 

Hey, was wondering if you can separate the wheel from the rim, is there any adhesive between the wheel and rim.

What may the torque values be?

Torque sequence, square pattern?

Reason, powder coating the centers black.

If too much of a pain, i'll just remove the tires anyway.

http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/...6748EC70C0.jpg
http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/...57F8BC86DE.jpg

Let the air out of the tires.

Unbolt the spokes and pop them out

Powdercoat and bolt back into place.

Are you going to use MAAS Brothers? Any way, a few years ago I bought a set of used Forgelines that were exactly like yours including the color. I called Forgeline and they told me there is a seal between the rim halves that would have to be replaced once the wheel was taken apart. There is an awesome wheel place in Walnut Creek called Rite-Way. I took my wheels to them and they took the tires off, removed the centers and sent them to MAAS brothers to have powder coated. The centers were sent back to them and they put the wheels back together, re-polished the outer hoops and mounted the tires. The only time I went to the powder coater was to pick the color. Rite-Way took care of everything else.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/rite-way-wir...s-walnut-creek

102 Yelp reviews and all 5 stars.

There's no sealant between the rim halves and center, a bead is run around the sealing area once the wheel is assembled. The torque value will be anywhere from 22-30ft lbs but you would have to confirm from forgeline. The sealant is a neutral cure silicone, dow 732 is commonly used. But if you are careful you can remove the center and not disturb the seal. Deflate the air from the tire, remove the wheel hardware and push the center out, refinish it and pop it back and in and torque it to spec. And air it up and check the pressure to make sure it's still sealed.

Are you going to use MAAS Brothers? Any way, a few years ago I bought a set of used Forgelines that were exactly like yours including the color. I called Forgeline and they told me there is a seal between the rim halves that would have to be replaced once the wheel was taken apart. There is an awesome wheel place in Walnut Creek called Rite-Way. I took my wheels to them and they took the tires off, removed the centers and sent them to MAAS brothers to have powder coated. The centers were sent back to them and they put the wheels back together, re-polished the outer hoops and mounted the tires. The only time I went to the powder coater was to pick the color. Rite-Way took care of everything else.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/rite-way-wir...s-walnut-creek

102 Yelp reviews and all 5 stars.

what are some of you guys doing about lug nuts?

DSE front and ford 9" rear

Looking for a nice set to go with titanium centers

I have a set of fikses apart now, and as u can see there's no sealant between the center and the rim halves. I've refinished dozens of 3 piece wheels and the only time I've encountered any sealant on the center to the rim half itself is when someone improperly applied the sealant. The seal is between the rim halves and not between the center and the halves or "barrels "
. If you are just removing the centers and not taking the halves apart you can accomplish it with the tires on, air out

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...pssvbn5npm.jpg

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...pscnrzbqbk.jpg

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...psumpmwpku.jpg

Sweet!!!! Makes sense too me. The 25/30 ft lbs, feels about spot on as well, i pulled one out to see, as its a 5/16 12pt bolt.

Looks like my afternoon job will go on....

Either Fusion Coatings in Livermore, or Melrose Powder and Paint in Oakland, Both i have biz relationships with and both are similary priced and super quality.....

Good question. I'm not sure yet. I'll probably anodize mine black, or find some trick ones, aesthetically pleasing and tough enough for track use..

I did this a while back with my Kinesis wheels. For what you are doing there is no reason to split the inner and outer hoops. Just remove the center and do what you are going to do. I suggest having the centers hard anodized instead of powder coated. This is also a good time to polish the outer lip and clean and paint the inside hoop for easy clean up.

Went from this:

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo99.jpg

To this:

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo122.jpg

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo123.jpg

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo124.jpg

In the last picture you can see little marks that I made with a Sharpie to keep track of the tightening pattern. I went in two steps and in a star pattern. I don't recall the torque values, but you can easily determine that by the size of the hardware.

Andrew

let us know what you find Mike.

I disassembled my Forgelines last year to have the centers recoated. You remove the 30 bolts, and the center comes right out. I put 4 bolts back in to hold the inner and outer rim sections together to make certain the seal didn't separate. I used blue loctite on the bolts when I reassembled. I torqued the bolts to 30 ft-lbs. I did them in a circle, no alternating pattern. It takes a good while, and it's a bit of a pain with the wider wheels, but it's not horrible...

They came right apart. Piece of cake. Torque is 25 ft lbs.

Going Black (powder, as its already powder) or maybe a gun metal, if i can get enough of a gloss.

Didn't like my choice of silver, when i put it all together, was disappointed. But part of the fun is the do'overs we get....well, for us backyard mechanics. Sucks when we have do overs at work lol....

You don't even need to remove the tires.

A 1/4" battery powered impact driver make the job go pretty fast

yep. used my makita 18v impact to remove after i cracked em free by hand

I'd go gunmetal or maybe a dark bronze, Mike. I'm not fond of black. It's your car though. Glad it's no so difficult to make this change. Good luck and keep us posted.