Need a Maxi Fuse block that looks OEM
 

Been looking and there arent really many choices. The Maxi Fuses will be protecting and supplying power to multiple relays. I want to be able to hard wire them and have a nice clean OEM look. Ideas?

Blade type that has both terminals at one end, or one with terminal at each end?

Have you checked a junk yard? I few years back I went looking in junk yard for the female terminal to add one to my GMPP LS2 harness fuse box, I had seen a few different blocks on cars that might work for you. Again that was 3 or 4 years ago when I looked.

Essentially I don't want anything like:
http://www.waytekwire.com/images/items/46011fl.gif

GM 12110129 would be great if they werent 60 dollars a piece.

http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/part-pic...5_10_23_RL.png

Didn't read through all this page, don't know if there is a minimum to buy, but how about $8.75 for one.

http://www.powerandsignal.com/Products/Product/12110129

I assume that the terminals are not included....

Looking at that page I can't quite tell what terminals would be used with that fuse holder. The data sheet was not helpful. Any suggestions?

Andrew

Andrew,

I did a search for "littlefuse type 2 terminals" and got the following result
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...gQX32%2fuqA%3d

Doing the same thing using type 8 brought up some results also. I believe either will work for you, but like you, I'm not 100% certain. Might be worth it to contact Mouser. They've been good to deal with in the past in my experience. Good luck!

The type 2 looks like a fine terminal. I will give Mouser a call to confirm. Thank you.

Andrew

Also ran across these that look very nice as well.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...fQjyK8zQ%3d%3d

Andrew

It really is slim pickings with oem style Maxi-fuse blocks isnt it?

Here is something else that I just found. Looks really slick and should work great for big power items.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4632...AAAAC-PDM-AMI/

Available in 2, 3, and 4 position...

*edit...I ended up ordering one of these...

Andrew

You are correct the terminals are not included. Littelfuse catalog is a bit confusing here is the fuse holder line with all the little pieces to lock the blocks together and mounting bosses. http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/co...-datasheet.pdf

Mouser carries everything and it is confusing how it is all priced. The catalog numbers say they are factory packed in quantity but the number is only for one piece. The 10 gauge terminals for the Maxi-fuse are part number 913-068 catalog reads that is a spool of 1200. On mouser's website it says factory pack 1200 qty 1 for $6.94. That will get expensive with all the little accessories to get those blocks mounted looking factory. I ordered the terminal blocks for 2 and 4 maxi fuses to check out and also ordered 1 terminal so we will see if I get 1200 or just 1 terminal today.

Confirmed 913-068 part number is for 1 terminal end for 10 gauge wire.

So I got one of those today and it was a total bust. The thing is just massive!!!

Need something else...

Andrew

How large are the circuits and how many relays do you need ?

I went to the Birmingham Pull-A-Part this afternoon and scored some stuff. Not sure what made me think it was a good idea to go to the junk yard at 3:00pm on a day when it was 99 degrees, but I survived...LOL

Scored a big fuse and really center from a 2002 Deville. These are located under the rear seat and can basically do the whole car. Then I got what looks like a modular panel from an Impala. Also scored two modules from under the rear seat of a supercharged Buick Riviera. I am quite certain these include the GM 12110129. All of these came with all the fuses and many relays. Very clean.

I will post some pictures tomorrow and if anyone sees something they like, we can work something out.

Andrew

Couldn't wait and dragged all that stuff into the house. This is out of the Riv and probably what I will end up using (or a part of it).

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/707.jpg

Andrew

Damn. That's a great idea robbing salvaged cars of their fuse panels. I'm going to have to think about that in the future. Only down side might be sourcing the correct pins etc. I'd imagine you could leave pigtails on the existing pins and connect the wires there if necessary. Good job, Andrew.

Thanks Trey!

If you want any of this goodness, let me know. I don't need all of this...LOL

Andrew

Decided to really clean some of this stuff today and see what I got here. I also downloaded the Delphi catalog (section 7) which really helped with sourcing the various parts that I need. These modules and parts are all available through Mouser.

Here is a 4 position base with the battery post connection.

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/708.jpg

The terminals are easily removable and have a secondary retaining clip (the white thing in the above photo). These are Delphi MetriPack 800 terminals and are rated at 60 amps.

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/709.jpg

The individual modules just pop in place and are retained by clips to the base.

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/710.jpg

I really don't have room for a 4 position box under the hood, so with a little creative trimming, I have a 2 position base with the battery lug (Delphi doesn't make such a beast).

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/711.jpg

Presto...

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/712.jpg

In the Delphi catalog they have a 6 Maxi fuse module, but as I said, there is no appropriate base for it. Delphi does make a 8 fuse holder and a single position base with a battery lug, but it's longer than the 6 fuse module, so I like this better.

Andrew

this is where we need Mr Steilow to pipe up with his insider gm knowledge

LatG doesnt have a pager for him? lol

I think Jackass is at Motorstates Challenge trying to break Jackass.....

Probably best they don't.... Guy would need a few restraining orders I bet

That's his local track so he should do well!

P.S. There is a pic of JA's engine on their FB page .... you could eat off that engine and still taste steak!!!!

I got my little stash of goodies from Mouser today, so it was time to figure out where to mount my new power distribution box.

Initially I thought I would mount it to the front of the shock tower, something like this:

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/713.jpg

That looked OK but seemed to stick out a little too much and I really didn't want to drill any holes in the shock towers. So I started looking around and I realized that if I moved the starter solenoid a little forward, I will have room between it and the shock tower. Like this...

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/714.jpg

I like that better and I was even able to use one of the existing fasteners for the outside shock tower brace to hold the panel in place. The wires will exit tightly by the shock tower and be loomed along with the other wires that I already have in place.


http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/715.jpg

The module on the right is functional, while the module on the left is there to hold spare fuses.

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/716.jpg

If I need more high draw runs than that, I can always replace the dummy module with one that is functional. I will run a 4 gauge battery cable from the auxiliary post on my battery directly to the bottom post of the power module. I plan to run 5 10 gauge leads from the box to under the dash. This will fix all my current issues and also give me a couple of spare runs for anything else that may need power down the line, like maybe electronic power steering. :-)

Andrew

the pn on those modules wouldnt happen to be 12110129 would it?

also, think you could get teh base and cover pn's? Should be on them somewhere.

PN 12110129 is the module on the left with the bus bar on the right side. PN 12077569 is the module on the right with the bus bar on the left side.

There are numerous bases available, but as I said before, there is no single module base with the battery lug that accepts the 6 MaxiFuse module. Since there is no single module base, there is no single cover, however, I ordered cover PN 12160897 and it works well.

Andrew

i can trim like you did. No bigggy :)

thanks for the info andrew.

The 4 module base is PN 12129121....Looks like it's about 18 bucks from Mouser. If you want some of the parts I am not using, shoot me a PM.

Andrew

Today I decided it was time to get the wiring sorted out on the Cougar. The goal was to install the Delphi distribution blocks and run 5, 10 gauge leads under the dash. So having recently moved, I had to go through some boxes to find my wire, but I managed to dig up the 10 gauge primary wire that I bought from Waytek. I figured out how long each lead needed to be and I cut five pieces...

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/717.jpg

The up side to working in the hot Alabama sun is that the wire gets nice and soft and easy to work with. Drink lots of water kids, when working outside in 95 degree heat!

I made sure to make the wires long enough that I could reach all the way to the other side of the dash so that if I need to add anything in the future, there will be enough length. I also added some electrical tape to keep the wires together.

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/718.jpg

The wires were fed through an existing grommet in the firewall, on the driver's side by the master cylinder. In order to protect the wires and hold them together, I used some fabric style heat shrink for the portion that passes through the grommet and into the engine bay.

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/719.jpg

I wish I had more of that stuff, but I only had a small piece that was left over from my previous wiring jobs. I did however have some other loom that I used for the rest of the run along the firewall. This is woven polyester split loom that is easy to work with and looks a million times better than the split corrugated loom that you get at the local parts store.

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/720.jpg

I ran the loom along the firewall, around the shock tower, and to the power distribution block.

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/721.jpg

To terminate the wires, I used Metri-Pack 800 terminals and a crimping tool from Waytek PN 560 with dies PN 567. Here is a video I made of the process (sorry about the wind noise...):



The block on the right is the one with the bus bar, while the block on the left is there to hold spare fuses. I can always replace it with another block that also has a bus bar if I need more leads inside the engine back.

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/722.jpg

Here is the finished product.

http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/723.jpg

You can see the cable at the bottom of the box which attaches to the battery. I wish I would have done this when I first built the car, but lesson learned!

Andrew

Looks great! I use heat shrink on the ends of that split loom. It gives it a nice finished look.

Thanks! I thought about doing that, but I wanted to just tape it, just in case I need to fiddle with it some more.

Andrew

Nice work, Andrew!

Love this thread. Andrew, what did you tie the new under dash wires into? Perhaps a AAW or similar new setup with accessories?

Scott,

The factory fuse panel and glass fuses are still intact on my Cougar. The factory fuse block and harness runs just the lighting systems and basically nothing else. The headlights have been upgraded to use relays with power directly from the battery, so there really isn't much load going through the original fuse block or headlight switch.

Originally I ran a single 10 gauge wire from the battery. This lead used to run through the crappy inline fuse and was energized through a 75 amp relay by an ignition switch lead that was hot in the RUN and CRANK position (basically the old coil lead). This relay, in turn powered my fuel pump (triggered by a lead from my Holley EFI system) and also powered the Holley digital dash. All this worked great until I installed the little stereo amps, which also got power from the 75 amp relay. This is what lead to the failure of the inline MaxiFuse holder as I have shown previously.

The way it works now is that the original feed that went to the relay is strictly there for the stereo. One of the five new leads goes to the 75 amp relay and still powers the fuel pump and the Holley digital dash. The other 4 leads there there strictly for future use and are not currently being used.

Andrew

I have some of these for sale...

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...ibution-blocks

Andrew

I think we should make a list of OEM fuse block part numbers for those that are DIY and want the OEM look.

All the parts I'm using are in the Delphi catalog and it contains all the part numbers. Download it and have at it.

Andrew

I have had a tough time finding the master catalog. Delphi new website seems to just have brochures on their systems.
master catalog I found here
https://www.reynoldsonline.com/ASSET...4580L_Broc.pdf

Both mouser electronics and reynolds sell these parts.