Brakes not stopping very good !!
 

Well guys I'm on to the next problem . I'm not happy with the way my car brakes . I have the complete ZR-1 Brembo / Carbon Ceramic set up on my car. 7/8 bore manual master . The pedal seems very soft . If yo have to panic stop it ain't happening. No matter how hard you press the pedal you can not get the brakes to lock up. There is no air in the lines I checked for that . Wondering if anyone has any suggestions.

I thought I read on here somewhere that they (carbons) have to have a good bit of heat in them to work well... but I don't remember anybody saying they had to have heat to work period.

It sounds like you may have air in your master cylinder. It may need re bench bleed. I personally never liked the 7/8 due to more pedal travel. I always thought a 15/16 would be perfect and I think they make it now. I ended up with a 1" on mine and preferred it over the 7/8. It was a higher firm pedal. It did take some leg.

Assuming your caliper pistons and master cylinder have been calculated correctly.

Does it have a wilwood master on it? There is a recall on 7/8 bore masters.

I thought so to but I've put plenty of heat on them and still the same.
I will look into that Todd Thanx
Chrysler!!!:hairpullout:

I've the got Wilwood 1" on mine too. Locks up all four and emits white smoke when needed. Great pedal feel.

Are you able to push the pedal all the way to the floor? Perhaps you need to move the seat forward or a put pillow behind you to help those short legs reach the pedal. You can always go old school and tape a block to the pedal.

:underchair:

What are the specs on the factory ZR1 master? It stops just fine with little heat in the rotors. From what I understand, there's nothing magic about the CC stuff until you get into ABS programming, which isn't an issue here. I'd expect with a proper master you should have good brakes with the possible downside being that they'll get grabby and prone to locking up when you get them good and warm. Opposite of the issue you're having.

Edit: just realized the lack of power assist will make that comparison to the factory part less meaningful. Maybe Tobin with Kore3 can assist, he's good with the math stuff ;)

Look at your Avitar! :buttkick: :mock:

Personally I would put power brakes on it, but thats just me. Sometimes safety/function should outway form, or make it a focal point. Most the manual brakes setups I have done (customer request) I am rarely happy with the outcome.

I agree with Mike. Unless it's a race car, power brakes are superior on the street. Manual brakes give you the ultimate feel and control under heavy braking, but there are trade offs and my opinion, street drivability is one of them.

As much as this sounds like a joke it was the problem I had with my car. I thought for sure I had enough travel but didn't. Brakes wouldn't stop at all until I extended the linkage and added ~1-2" of travel. After the extension they were terrific. I have a 7/8 with Wilwoods, might not be the same issue but I really think its a test you should try

Kore3 set me up with wil-260-8556-bk wilwood 1.125 bore since I went with c6 z06 corvette brakes. I can tell you my car stops very very hard without much effort. I honestly feel my 67 camaro brake pedal brakes just like my 2015 Infiniti as far as pedal feel but my 67 will stop on a dime. I'm also running hydroboost

humm we only do manual brakes and have never had any complaints.
with Baer proplus we use a 1" and with Wilwood a 15/16" master

Customers don't complain, they asked for them. It's alot of work to properly size piston bores, master cylinder bore, pedal ration, etc to get manual brakes to work like I want them to work. No big deal if your installing the same setup multiple times. Unless the customer is asking for a manual setup, I would rather have the safety margin of power brakes for customers that own way more car than they can drive to start with.

Hmmmmmmmm I'm going to look at that !

Hi Mario. I think you need to do the math. Math is here:

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...Tobin-of-KORE3

The specs you need are here:

http://lukeskaff.com/projects/car/th...-measurements/

Sometimes it pays to enlist the help of an expert like Ron or Tobin.

Don

WOW!!! Looks like I'm gonna put a call into Ron he did my shocks . :thankyou:

Mario, I have been having the same issue with my brakes and was wondering if you would share what you found wrong with your system. Thank you in advance.

Mario & Richard ...

What are the piston sizes of your front & rear calipers?

Ron

Ron not sure but the calipers are stock ZR-1.

Wait! I thought this car was built by professionals?

WTF......

You need a larger master cylinder than the 7/8".

DO NOT LISTEN to people telling you that you need power brakes. That is utter crapola. Trust me -- the right combo of brakes and master cylinder.... that thing will stop on a dime.

Amazing that so called professional builders don't know how to do math on critical items. :catfight: :bang: :bang:

Manual, 7/8 bore master cylinder per the original post.

Curious to see where this goes. I know Larry Woo recently went to carbon brakes with a manual master but I don't know any details regarding that setup.

I have Carbon ceramic rotors on my 911 Turbo S ---- they require NO HEAT to work great.... They don't create dust.... they don't squeal.... Mind you, Porsche seems to be pretty good at engineering stuff.

Are those manual brakes?

Ron no power booster, manual. 7/8 BORE

I did do some checking on that exact thing your talking about Ron , What I'm finding out is the Brembos on the Corvette are no different that the exact same model you can buy off the shelf from Brembo. Now I can be getting some bad info I'm not sure . I think the only guy that can maybe answer that is the guy I purchased them from (MARK S) and I'm about to send him an e-mail to get his thoughts .

The piston diameters etc are in the link I posted earlier in this thread. I thought the calculations I listed in that same post would be possible with those piston diameters.

Front:

09-13 C6 ZR1
11-13 C6 Z06 Carbon
Edition
Brembo 30/34/38mm 6 8.52 sq. in. 5497.8 sq. mm

Rear:

09-13 C6 ZR1
Brembo 30mm 34mm 4 3230 sq. mm

Rotor info is in the same link.

Don

My opinion hasn't changed, I don't think you will like the results of the manual brakes on that beautiful street car. I'd be looking towards the C6 vete specs for a booster and master cylinder and do it right once. That will get you a modern brake feel with lighter pedal effort.

9" dual diapragm booster with 1-1/8 master, its what I run, DSE runs, and I'm sure a few others. Once I get the prop valve dialed and pads bedded, its effortless braking and like pulling the parachute.

Bingo was her name O.

Two words NO ROOM!

Whoops :D

Maybe hydroboost would fit. Check with Paul at Hydratech.

Don

I have posted this before, I apologize if I sound like a broken record. You need clamping force or friction. A little of both or a lot of one or the other.

Assuming your hydraulics are functioning properly, it sounds like you don't have enough of either.

Do carbon brakes actually generate more braking power? Serious question. I looked around a bit and didn't see anyone that states that these brakes have a higher friction coefficient. They are lighter, and last longer (:rolleyes:), and can handle more heat than iron rotors, but do they actually stop better?

Get a pressure gauge and hook it to the front brakes and see if how much line pressure you are building. Check it a 3-4 times with moderate pedal pressure and then 3-4 more with all you got. With line pressures a known we can come up with a clamping force at the caliper.

Two words - NOT NECESSARY

Hey Mario. Looks like you and Donny are both in Illinois. Why don't you take the car to him and let him fix it.

Don

How about taking it back to the builder and letting them finish their job.... and making this stuff right?? :idea: