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Question for those that have owned Shelby Cobras/replicas
I live out in a rural area with lots of back roads to blast along on. Looking for a raw, V8 powered in your face ride and the Cobra style roadster seems the place to start. Drove one but it was a while ago. Had a couple nice V8 ragtops but they're not the same of course.
So...how long did that feeling last after you got your Cobra? :D |
I bet the boat comparison could be used here... best two days...
There are at least half dozen here in my town but I never see the owners out in them, only parked at shows. |
Cobra replica
Skip
I have a friend who just built a beautiful factory five with a Coyote engine. Speed a little much for him at first but a blast to drive He found that due to no top you do not take it out on a hot sunny day. Others have said the same for cold days (he just finished his so no there yet) I had a Gt350r clone for a while that was a gutted street legal race car Very fast and fun to drive but I would not take it on real long drives My Pantera is a well setup track car that I have taken to Vegas and back, Montery all the time. It has recaros and an overdrive 5 speed Very comfortable and a blast to drive. If you are just thinking spirited short drives then and it goes fast and handles well it is hard to lose that great feeling of driving them The problem is most don't really drive their cars To me that is what they are for. If no track event then take it out for an early morning spin with no traffic Bob |
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Car shows aren't my thing...I like to keep moving. Quote:
Yes, it would be for spirited shorter drives. No traffic to speak of. Summers here are fairly mild, so that helps too. If the Cobra is too annoying to live with, a mid-year sidepiped Vette roadster is the next choice. |
So I can't speak from personal experience. But, I did the body and paint on my brother in laws Factory Five Cobra 6 years ago. He still drives the hell out of it as much as possible. While building it he installed heat warmers in the seats for those cool fall drives.
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Cool that he is still driving it hard 6 years later. |
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You are a very good man! :D |
Get a nice mid-year 'Vette with an L79 - drop top with N14 factory side exhaust -- With Power steering and A/C - Power windows.... and have a car you can actually use and enjoy.
On top of that -- you don't have to respond to the same stupid question everywhere you drive it -- i.e., "is that real?" Look for one in C2 "nice driver" condition.... Or just call Lillard and have him find one he thinks is right. |
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I prefer the rawness of the Cobra replicas. But a mid-year plus a/c etc should be enough to get my favorite person in the passenger seat...with the Cobra it's #nobueno. :lol: |
It such a "similar" car and feel and drive --- top down -- side exhaust blasting the best bass in history.....
However ---- a drop top WITH windows (vs the Cobra's nothingness) --- means you can USE the car --- and with A/C -- trust me - you get real tired of the heat on a trip and the sun beating on your head and the bugs in your teeth (remember I've owned MANY of these - and done 1000's of mile trips in them -- and my roadsters etc).... It's very nice to have OPTIONS...... If you really want the full monty --- get a 400hp tri-power with A/C or the 390 Hp version -- for that torquey big block feel that only big cubic inches can provide. For my money ------- a BBC side pipe - A/C drop top..... Oh yeah buddy! |
Nice appearing L79 car with the N14...sounds awesome.
Greg, I'm glad you mentioned the big block models. I prefer those too. Is it tough to keep them cool, both from an engine cooling perspective and the interiors? Or does the a/c take care of the later issue? Also, what about cowl shake on the roadsters? Thanks. :thumbsup: |
They're ALL hot floorboards ---- side exhaust doesn't help that either -- but so worth it. I drove with AC on - turned to my feet (use the heater settings to direct airflow). On a long trip on a hot day ---- yeah ---- you can basically burn your feet. LOL
There's cowl shake in every roadster ever built - get over it. It's nothing that will bother you - unless the car is some kind of complete POS rebuild. Obviously if the car is done wrong - it can be worse. When I used to buy droptop '69 Camaro's ----- If I had 2 or 3 of them at a time -- I'd drive them all -- the one with the worst cowl shake would go down the road to the next idiot. They do all behave differently. These cars drove differently when they were brand spanking new. NEVER EVER EVER NEVER buy a car you haven't looked at with your own eyes and DRIVEN YOURSELF. It's a 100K car -- spend $1500 on airfare and a hotel room. If you can't do that -- then you shouldn't be buying anything. |
I've owned 6 or more mid year Corvettes --- and drove one daily back in the early 70's.... (it went down the road with 108,000 miles on it IIRC). I've NEVER owned one that overheated -- EVER. IF they do that -- there is something wrong with them.
Just because someone "restored" it - doesn't make it right. But, done right these cars are a joy to own and drive. Many of the so called "restored" cars --- if they don't have NCRS judging sheets --- can end up with the wrong fan - wrong radiator - wrong fan shroud. The A/C cars did NOT use the same fan that the Non A/C cars used! But if people don't know what they're doing ---- then they "restore" them with the wrong stuff. The BBC A/C cars used a SEVEN blade fan..... Can't tell you how many cars I've seen that are wrong. |
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I appreciate your great advice. :thumbsup: Likin' this.... But, done right these cars are a joy to own and drive. And like you said, look for a driver. |
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I'd look for a "driver" that has a CURRENT judging sheet ---- the reason for that --- even if it was a second flight car --- it's been looked at by super knowledgeable people and it would point out things such as it having the wrong fan... Then you can see if that was "corrected". These cars need to be done RIGHT ----- and there are many models and many model differences. Unless you really know what you're looking at -- you can end up with a very expensive pile. These cars DO RUST --- they DO have frame parts that rusted -- and poorly repaired fiberglass - or who knows. You'll know in half a mile and by third gear - whether or not the car is going to be a great driver --- and there are Decent drivers -- there are good drivers --- and there are GREAT drivers..... and until you've spent some time in the seat -- you're not going to be able to know a "good" from a "great". You, or anyone, will know a pile. When you read the descriptions on a place like Pro Team Corvette --- you'll note that Terry will describe a car as a "good" driver ---- or he'll use a word like EXCELLENT driver..... those might be easily glossed over by the unwashed. They're very very important words. Also --- "matching numbers" vs the added description of ORIGINAL or BORN WITH or something such as that is another clue --- matching numbers just means the numbers match --- doesn't mean that it's the ORIGINAL NUMBERS MATCHING part (engine etc). That's a big part of the value for buying and for resale.... and we ALL resale. NCRS now recognizes "restamped" blocks as a "restoration part" --- but that is worth 25K or much more in value. Just as they finally were forced to not deduct points for perfect bodies and modern paint..... You don't need a Duntov car for a driver -- but those judging sheets are worth A LOT towards the value of a collector car --- and these ARE collector cars. |
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:P https://youtu.be/baJ_cOzOOfI |
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Some of the above I know, but I have a lot more to learn. If you were to buy one in todays world, would it be the best driver you could find? Or, an excellent pro-touring build? |
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Well --- it used to be it had to be a 100 point NCRS or Bloomington Gold car for me ---- but ---- those cars are losing value at a high rate of vibration as the crowd that wanted them ages.... we all "age" out of these cars..... think about the Model A restoration crowd (gone!). However --- I would NEVER pay up for a pro touring (anything).... but would probably prefer to drive a modern pro tour car of any type. But it's like anything else.... the PYRAMID gets very toppy in a hurry -- and stuff that goes sideways from the "norm" becomes toppy. Having said that ---- HELLFIRE would be top of my list if I was shopping for a '69 Camaro.... but that is because it's build to standards -- it IS the standard - and therefore is worth a premium. I've driven many "pro touring" cars that I'd park within a 100 yards and walk away. The steering hunts rabbits - or the big brakes that can't stop the car - or the ride is worse than a 1949 International.... Only when you jump in the car can you judge any of this -- and they're all completely different and most don't live up to the looks. |
Great insights/info to 'chew' on. :thumbsup:
Thanks Greg. |
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As has already been said, it shouldn't overheat or even run hot. Even a recent build should have been sorted before offered for sale. If someone uses the excuse that it "just hasn't been sorted out..." run away. There are some really good products out to help with interior heat. Might involve pulling seats and carpet, but that's a weekend project. Jeff- |
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Just starting to research these n depth, so I'll see whats been done to effectively curb the cabin heat. |
Great looking '65 LS3 coupe on CL
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Cosmo,
I built a Factory Five in the early 2000's. It had a mild EFI 302, T5 trans, 8.8" rear end...pretty basic build. I learned A TON during the build and enjoyed that part of the experience as much as the driving. It was definitely a sunny day driver. But I did autocross it a couple of times, which it was quite a handful. That led to an interest in road racing, which led to the sale of the FFR Cobra and the purchase of a '95 Mustang Cobra, which was gutted, caged, and tracked at Road Atlanta, VIR, etc. As a data point, there used to be a couple of vendors that made soft and hard tops for the FFR's. Daniel |
Re the Craigslist '65
#1 -- it's the wrong year -- '65's have never been sought after -- with one or two exceptions - the fuelie - or the high hp 327 #2 -- a good resto mod at that price needs to have a trick chassis to go with all the other mods.... #3 -- If you buy something like this -- you want to get the original motor etc so the car has extra value down the road. #4 -- driver door already shows sag #5 -- It's an automatic (boring to the max in a car like this) LOL ----- other than it's 60K too high price it appears to be an "okay" car. The guy stopped before it was really a nice car (chassis etc).... to me -- it's like a half breed.... got some goodies - but lacks others. If I'm paying UP for a resto mod car -- it needs bad ass stance - fat tires - slammed - trick chassis -- 6 speed.... otherwise -- if it's going to look factory - then just be a factory restoration and have "value" for that. This is just my unhumble opinion of course. |
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I was reminded yesterday of the kind of compromises a Cobra bring. The weather, like many places, can change on a dime around here. I left my windows open on a bright sunny day, and when we got home a short time later a whole bunch of electronics were wet. I think the Cobra would be a ton of fun to own, just not as a primary 'nice appearing day' driver. :) |
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When I think "RESTOMOD" I think all the way......
https://lateral-g.net/forums/atta...1&d=1504719777 https://lateral-g.net/forums/atta...1&d=1504719777 |
By the way ---- if I was buying a Cobra replica -- I'd buy a Superperformance model --- not a Factory Five version.
Friends own Park Place Ltd in Bellevue Washington and are a Superperformance dealer -- I always thought the quality was top notch. 100K less than the Craigslist '65 http://www.parkplaceltd.com/used-car...II/995/SP02023 60K Less -- big block badassery http://www.parkplaceltd.com/new-cars...SC/995/SPO3264 |
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Not endorsing that car. I just like black over red. It was directed at Don, who likes the LS. 1. Any like for the '65 396-425hp cars? 2. Yep, when I saw no chassis at that price...nah. :shakehead: 3. I wouldn't buy any classic Vette without the SBC/BBC it was spose to come with, or a close facsimile. 4&5. Since it was an LS/auto car I really just gave it a quick look see. I agree with how you would build it.Seems obviously built to a very specific taste. Most likely that will cost him big. |
Yes Skip -- didn't think you were endorsing the car -- and, of course, we're just discussing "food for thought" here..... and many read all these posts -- so we're really just dissecting.
I will tell you -- Hillbanks -- always has a load of just killer Superperformance models ready for your choice of motor ---- and every time I go to look there - I get a pang of "I WANT".... the gut says I want -- the head says -- bad choice.... sometimes a bad choice can be good! LOL Damn there's nothing quite like a big block body Cobra. They also sell the "continuation" cars... and for $160K that's what I'd buy vs the other replicas -- or I'd just buy a low milage Superperfomance version and use it for those days I could. Investment wise - I'd buy the higher end Vette correct resto with paperwork -- if capital loss doesn't matter - I'd love to own the Restomod Vette - If I want to just fall in love -- it would be the Cobra (continuation for capital preservation - Superformance for lower initial cost). |
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I need to drive a mid-year roadster restored correctly/drives right and see if I like it. Maybe try the better looking coupes as well. If I like the cars but not the factory ride and handling, I'd consider doing a restomod with a top rated chassis, a period correct BBC, 6 speed, 17" knockoffs, side exhaust, a/c, power windows, etc. |
Greg,
Thanks for the very helpful suggestions and advice plus the linkage. I will browse there. I prefer the looks of the Cobras to the Vettes. They make it tough to look away...lol I would not be surprised to see a Cobra in your signature someday. IIRC you've resisting the urge for awhile. :D |
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Restomods are for the people that understand the old vettes are lame handlers -- want to redline a motor without the worry of blowing an original motor (thus destroying the value of the car by twice what a motor costs) and want something up to date - spirited handling is a priority - and modern LS power etc just works.... best to start with a NOM car - or some 327/300hp (or worse - the '64 327/250hp) powerslide tranny car... not worth much to begin with -- and spend a small fortune like any custom build. To which I personally say --- AWESOME - go for it -- just know you'll spend 2 or 3X what it's going to be "worth". It's a niche market for cars like that - purists don't buy them - and it's now just another PT car and there's lots of 'em... Quote:
Charley gets in my head every time I even mention it.... LOL --- he is absolutely correct of course! Then he talks me into the Porsche Turbo S drop top --- and GWEN loves the thing.... Drove it by herself roundtrip from here to Napa a few weeks ago and loved every minute of it. It's all the Cobra - fat hips - the restomod - and the Corvette rolled into one car.... top goes up and down - everything works every time you drive it - it doesn't use or leak oil - it's faster than snot - you can drive it in automatic or row the "stick". It's pretty tough to beat actually. The Cobra is the hot date with all the baggage... The Vette is the smart hot girl that can cook... the Porsche is the hot successful lawyer that's also just plain nice to be around.... LOL |
"The Cobra is the hot date with all the baggage... The Vette is the smart hot girl that can cook... the Porsche is the hot successful lawyer that's also just plain nice to be around.... LOL" Greg, I put that quote in a safe place...it's a keeper. :thankyou: |
Very cool Greg how well Gwen fares on a long trip like that in the Porsche.
#CharleyFTW :D |
Looking at this build option...
One of the baddest C3's on the planet imho.
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Came across this while looking at big block Vettes
'70 coupe with a 540 Merlin.
Daily driven 35 miles daily to work... 419K on it. |
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