Project Haircut - Third Gen
 

This project has sat in the shop for a while back burnered for other projects and work. Time to get serious about finishing it. Let the fun begin! :G-Dub:

https://s8.postimg.cc/vqe3zptip/20180602_164811.jpg

Yeah I had a mullet in the '80's
 

This car has languished in '80's bad style for too long.

Yes, those are ghost flame racing stripes! :confused59:

https://s8.postimg.cc/byby0ds8h/20160312_180926.jpg


...and that interior!! Looked like a brothel puked inside the car. :wow:


https://s8.postimg.cc/or0205qxt/20160312_181009.jpg

I've been joking that I need to beat the '80's off the car with a sledge hammer and cut it's mullet with a chainsaw. Turns out a heated pressure washer, parts cleaner, shop towels and a scraper are the weapons of choice. :disgusted:

https://s8.postimg.cc/8fzy45byp/FB_I...1014516883.jpg


https://s8.postimg.cc/u3owe5wsx/20180804_133127.jpg

https://s8.postimg.cc/sbvxjdvhd/20180804_133105.jpg

This is going to take a while :faint:

Paint
 

The Camaro went to paint today! :G-Dub:

We'll bolt up the suspension to get it home from paint and parts are still coming in. I'll post some pictures and details of the suspension once I have everything together.

https://i.postimg.cc/7GCQ5RGt/20191221-150037.jpg

Keep us updated, please, and good luck with it. I love seeing all these third gens getting built.

RT 66 bigger pics will help and whats your plans for build powertrain? brakes? suspension? lots of third gen fans out here :RunninDog:

If you click on the pictures they display larger in postimages.com I'll try to post larger pictures in the future. I do hate it though when you open a thread and the pictures are larger than the screen *BAM*:confused59:


The goal is a CAM-T, USCA GTL compliant lightweight that solves the inherent problems with the 3rd Gen platform: chassis flex, antiquated steering with anti-ackerman, high unsprung weight, WAY too low front roll center and too high rear.

The car will have (sort of front-to-back) an aluminum Firebird front bumper custom fit to the Camaro, lightweight lithium battery, tubular k-member & a-arms with extended ball joints, power rack and pinion that removes the anti-ackerman geometry, billet aluminum hubs, C5/LS1 manual brakes, lightweight double adjustable struts, 18x10" forged wheels, an '82 fiberglass hood, Vintage Air A/C, a lightweight 5-speed, aluminum drive shaft, Rear seat delete, lightweight Zexel Torsen based rear diff. and adjustable LCA, torque arm and panhard bar. I'm considering a polycarbonate rear window, but I need some clarification of the weight restrictions on lexan in the CAM-T Rules.

From the factory the car was 3,126 with a ~54% front weight balance. Anyone want to take bets where I end up?

The chassis will be stiffened with subframe connectors, re-enforcement at the custom splined front swaybar, no steering box pushing against the subframe and a STB. Being a late model factory hardtop along with some stitch welding will help too.

The powerplant will be an L33 LS with a Comp Cam, upgraded valvetrain and manifold.

I have a few other tricks up my sleeve that I'll get to as I go along.:cool:

Cool project and nice list of parts you have planned! Building up a third gen Camaro myself so ill be following along.

interested in the CAM-T you lised and along with putting on a diet I have a 90 Formula that I'm gathering parts for and ready when my 69 Bird goes to body man I'm also doing the Aluminum Impact bar but compared to the factory steel one it saves only 5 lbs

Thanks. I've been watching your build. You are definitely better at documentation than I am. You're getting close, looking forward to your updates.

In the case of a Camaro, the difference between a Camaro steel impact bar and the Firebird aluminum bar modified to work on a Camaro is just over 8 lbs. Not huge, but it's on the extreme end of the car and polar moment is as important as unsprung weight. Also, I only paid a Jackson for it and the challenge of making it fit the Camaro bumper cover was entertaining, although probably not the best use of an entire evening.

I mounted the Camaro support bar and egg crate plastics and used a plumb bob and tape measure to mark the location of multiple points:
https://i.postimg.cc/0MN1djnx/20160426-111404.jpg

Then I mounted the Firebird bar with the Camaro plastics and cut to fit:
https://i.postimg.cc/3ytxHPb8/20160429-151315.jpg

It fit great!

I rebuilt the rear diff. I combined a 2001 Firebird rear diff and a 3rd gen housing with Moser axels, Richmond Gear 3.73 and a TA girdle.

https://i.postimg.cc/304SXnPp/20191225-122138.jpg
The Torsen carrier was in great shape.

https://i.postimg.cc/9rzVS2jt/20191208-151205.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/Kkdr2FHk/20191230-112409.jpg
The Third Gen diff not so much. All I wanted was the housing though.

https://i.postimg.cc/Z9nrvCkv/20191227-143502.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/2VxvH4rB/20191227-154524.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/wyfxyjpM/20191227-154602.jpg
I modified the drum brake backing plate to accept the LS1 rear disks

https://i.postimg.cc/ft6kLbZs/20191230-144824.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/PpzZBZYc/20200105-211651.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/dhby3n9p/20200124-164119.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/sQcQnzRC/20200124-165219.jpg
Took me four attempts to shim it up and get a good pattern, not too bad. Got it scrubbed up, painted and ready to go!

A few pics from the paint shop:

https://i.postimg.cc/9z7sqfVk/20200112-101550.jpg
Last weekend I went to the shop for primer inspection. Not many shops will let you go over the primered car with marking tape

https://i.postimg.cc/nsrPVF00/20200119-181457.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/PNTFNQ3C/20200119-181424.jpg
A couple of pics after color and clear. I hesitate to show these since it hasn't been cut and buffed.

Looks great, love that color blue on a Third Gen! Keep the updates and pics coming!

Thanks!

Another pic from the paint shop today.

https://i.postimg.cc/GH57gFqp/20200126-144638.jpg
You can't see it in the pics, but they masked off spots for the subframe connectors to weld in once the chassis has weight on it.

Some bad news from today: when bolting on the k-member to get the car off the rotisserie, they found 5 of 6 bolts lined up and the 6th didn't. He hadn't thought of 4-cornering the k-member and the subframe horns. I had him check and it turns out the subframe is either tweaked 1/8", which I doubt because there absolutely no signs of any previous repairs OR 90's GM quality. I bet it's the latter. :( The stock k-member bolted up fine. Two of the stock bolts were ~110mm, two were ~90mm. Lots of play there. The aftermarket k-member bolts flush to the frame with 6 - 30mm long bolts.

So now the has to go to a frame shop post-paint. :_paranoid

My hope is that with the tweak being only 1/8", subframe connectors, a front steering brace, a solid k-member flange on both sides and the strut tower brace that this won't be a big deal in terms of chassis flex.

Any opinions on this?

Interesting... where did you get the Aluminum one? Are they hard to find or did all Firebirds come with them? Never heard of this before but definitely a great place to lose 8lbs.

I pulled it out of junk yard. Honestly, I'm not sure if I got lucky or if they are plentiful.

Great color choice! I'm sorry to hear about the frame being tweaked. I hope it's easily fixed.

I determined yesterday that the issue is definitely just manufacturer quality. The locating pins fit perfect, also when properly 4-cornered the measurement is less than 1/16" off. It's the center DS bolt that isn't quite lining up, but not by much. These are captured nuts and there's some play in the adjustment, the locating pins being straight is the critical issue.

Still working on cutting and buffing, so no complete car pics yet.
https://i.postimg.cc/WtDJvwyn/20200202-153034.jpg
Those 15" mags are looking sweet! j/k

Here's a pic of the k-member installed, with 5 bolts lol
https://i.postimg.cc/1fdSZDLp/20200202-152730.jpg

UPS delivered these today:ups:
https://i.postimg.cc/jnjppjcg/20200203-175708.jpg
Pretty!!

Any particular reason why you had it painted before building it, or will it be primarily just bolt on stuff? Scary having to straighten a unibody, weld on it, etc with all that pretty paint on it. I did it once with a customer's '67 Nova with subframe connectors, mini tubs and a frame tweak of 3/8". Luckily none of the body panels moved from pulling the frame. You shouldn't have any problem making the CAM-T minimum weight with your setup.

It's primarily bolt on. I should have bolted the aftermarket k-member on before paint though. Luckily, as it turns out, we won't have to straighten it.

As for the subframe connectors, with a unibody, you need all of the weight on the car plus ballast in the driver's seat before welding up the subframe connectors.

early Camaros and firebirds occasionally got them, but not all. I grabbed one for my 90 but have to work with absorber and cut some holes for my turn signals they are HTF but they come around time to time
steel impact weighs in at 22lbs aluminum is 13lbs
now if I can find an aluminum hood :cool:
watching along on your build - nice

Paint Update
 

Just got back from the painter. Almost ready to go home!!

https://i.postimg.cc/yYQ9yZLC/20200311-170801.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/CLzdY6s9/20200311-170755.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/DzdwBV74/20200311-170809.jpg

Marked a few places that needed a bit more attention. (The plastics aren't cut & buffed yet either)

https://i.postimg.cc/pyNwwTZW/20200311-174518.jpg

Covid Quarantine Edition Update
 

I've put in more hours working from home the past month than I usually do in the office. That and spring cleaning around the property has kept me from making much progress.

The car is home from paint and assembly in under way!

https://static1.pt-content.com/image...19165141-1.jpg

Made some progress this weekend and my wheels arrived yesterday! :ups:

Note: pay no mind to the loose brake lines in some of the pics. They are laying in there loose in the approximate location for my next project, bake and fuel hard line installation.

https://i.postimg.cc/dZsHBJ7n/20200424-101424.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/Jtz5P66T/20200424-101640.jpg
These are BMW wheels and have a center bore that is ~2mm too narrow and a 120mm PDC. I have some router and PDC correction work to do. But, the wheels are the correct offset, 20.9 lbs (which is really pretty good for a 18x10.5 wheel) and not terribly expensive.

https://i.postimg.cc/yD3P0L6D/20200425-171235.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/hJPtH5Jj/20200425-181111.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/TpMYRwyB/Jamex-STB.jpg
I mocked up the STB this evening leaving enough room for maximum camber plate movement. This thing was pretty nasty when I bought it off another forum. A little sand blasting, painting and 1000 grit sandpaper on the bar and it turned out pretty nice.

https://i.postimg.cc/dZvsjNKw/20200425-181244.jpg
Found dust boots for the extended ball joints. The conventional "wisdom" of the mullet set is that is it's impossible to find a dust boot for Summit extended ball joints. Prothane make a variety and these fit really well.

https://i.postimg.cc/56XzYjpg/20200425-181327.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/G4rc05BD/20200425-181520.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/SjCFyGbf/20200425-181349.jpg
Got the adjustable panhard bar and LCA mounts installed. I REALLY do not like these bolt-in adjustable LCA mounts. There is no way this doesn't want to want to rotate around the single bolt under acceleration, they're definitely going to be welded in before I'm done! Also, the kit came with LCA bolts that are too short :headscratch: and 8.8 grade bolts! WTF? :soapbox:

Last update for this weekend:
https://i.postimg.cc/WqpjxDYk/2119aj-LRG-1-600x450.jpg
Third gens were built with an offset in the front swaybar bracket :lostmarbles:. UMI makes a very nice relocation bracket that also allows the use of a steering brace ( a.k.a. Wonder Bar)
https://i.postimg.cc/rdDnmq3t/20200425-181604.jpg
Big front bar is in the works.

PDC Adjustment
 

I've been working on hard lines (brakes and fuel) and I should have an update on that soon. Also, the transmission is being built and should ship in the next couple of weeks. That will be a fun update, it's more Ford than GM, pretty crazy :action-smiley-027:

In the meantime I worked on adjusting the PDC of the wheels from 5x120mm to 5x 4.75. The difference is 0.65mm or 0.325mm at each seat.
(The procedure was not my idea, there is a thread by user //<86TA>\\ on Third Gen detailing the process and I did it in a similar manner. It's really a brilliant shade-tree mechanic fix that opens up many more options for lightweight yet affordable wheels)

I used a Neway 60 degree valve seat cutter to recut the seat.
https://i.postimg.cc/dhLnqWLh/Neway-...eat-cutter.jpg

I turned down a wheel stud to fit the center bore of the cutter, pressed it back into a spare axle from my differential upgrade project.
https://i.postimg.cc/YGbmLHPM/20200606-154008.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/VJWskFpc/20200606-154029.jpg
Note: What appears to be marks or scrapes on the wheel are actually only a reflection.

Cutting down the seat about 2.5mm did the trick.
https://i.postimg.cc/64ZtJVng/20200606-160833.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/gnvmgDY6/20200606-161226.jpg

The next pic may be a little hard to see, but the bottom lug nut was from a shallower cut and has marks on one side because the seat wasn't cut down enough. The top lug nut seated evenly all the way around when torqued to 100 ft-lbs (that's all the torque I could get with the axle and wheel mounted in the vice).
https://i.postimg.cc/JHLd0jS9/20200606-163834.jpg

So you used the turned down stud as a guide while holding the wheel in place on the axle with the other lug nuts? Finish one seat and shift the rim one stud on the axle to get to the next?

APEX wheels?

That's correct and yes, they are Apex FL-5's.

Also, I should have added that I used a centering ring to get the wheel in the right place. The other lug nuts were just to keep the wheel from tipping and moving around.
https://i.postimg.cc/VrXPp1x1/20200606-211601.jpg

Nice progress! Those wheels will look great against the new paint job.

been 5 years, would love to see some updates on this build