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Delete post Pleae
I've always wanted to start a build/project thread but I normally do not take photos while I'm working on cars until now.
I have a history with go fast parts with my later model Camaro and Corvette. I have for the most part always tried to do all modifications/repairs myself with an exception to tuning and some bodywork. I sold both my Camaro and Corvette when our little one was born, too little time for both at the time. About a year ago my wife said I should get a hobby so I started shopping around for a cool car and saw lots of first gen pro-touring style cars with late model engines and it caught my attention. I built my previous 96 Camaro over a 10 year span then sold it so I could get a Corvette. The Corvette was already built so there was not much fun and satisfaction with it and I ended up selling it, plus you cannot fit 3 people in it. So about 6 months ago I purchased my 68 Camaro with a "rust free" body to start building what I like. My goal is to make this car something fun to drive, dependable and just cool. Kind of hard to make it unique since its a first gen Camaro but I'll try with the drivetrain. The car will mostly just be for driving around and possibly autocross events if I work up the courage. I'll probably take it to the 1/4 track a few times as well. Below is a photo of the car when I got it. It's a BBC with a 700r4 and 9". The 9" is narrowed but the wheel backspacing is short so they stick out strange, I'll correct this soon. Mirrors are a little off too. [IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pstbedp81x.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psldtziugx.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps8runlvys.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psqxkwaok7.jpg[/IMG] |
I know this is not a how-to and its been done numerous times but I enjoy and learn off others builds so I'll include photos along with as much useful/useless info that I can provide and answer any questions along the way.
First on the chopping block were the mini tubs. I started off by removing the rear seats and side trim. This is all relitivly simple to do and the only special tool I needed was the window crank remover but others can do it with a screwdriver. Next was the trunk Dynamat. I wish I read into this a little more prior to starting this project. This stuff it tough to remove if you don’t know. I used a heat gun and came up easy with an exception to the tar left behind. I only removed what was needed at this time and covered the sticky side with masking tape. The tape came off pretty easy when it was done. People say dry ice is the way to go when removing this stuff. I may try this later when I remove the entire trunk Dynamat. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps5gabhw0e.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pszekrvzrb.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pshxjdt0en.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psqjmbktwq.jpg |
Next thing I did was remove the rear.
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pscud0qdpz.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psrj4vdirh.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psgpvowa4l.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps7edafo2h.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps0f7jfaon.jpg Empty now with plenty of room to work http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psikptv86s.jpg The fuel gauge did not work and I never checked the sending unit but this explains everything. I'll need to purchase a new sending unit harness to reconnect this wire with the screwcap. |
First thing I did was remove the DS package tray reinforcement per DSE instructions. This seemed to not be needed but did make it easier to do. I did not remove it on the PS. Then I went on removing the inner wheel well paint to expose the spot welds. Spot welds suck...
[IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psgshycbwt.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psectsc2eb.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psqbycqw3d.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psn12zc0cp.jpg[/IMG] Next I cut out the inner wheel well and trunk floor/frame per the DSE instruction and use their template so I could mock up the new tubs http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psgc6scntc.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psasvxadpe.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pspq9mitmk.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps1bjyz9h1.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pscaoylqgi.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psy13jjrgd.jpg |
Now I had to close up the frame cuts and add the plate. This was somewhat of a paint getting decent penetration welding paper thin metal to 1/8" plate but I made it work slowly stitching away. I know a great deal about welding but I do not call myself a welder, I'm a hobby guy that likes to weld. I own a tig welder and I borrowed my buddies Miller 180 for this task, it works great.
After the plate, I drilled some holes for the plug welds and went at it. Grown down the welds and the DS was just about done. I then installed the package tray reinforcement and the trunk hinge I had removed. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps1rfk7lrk.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psiwdjs27n.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdrmkuam3.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pss464mb38.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psykvaaiqc.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps8jpguztb.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psj3d4fmfa.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pszpisc7rt.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pslk46mfqe.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psmhggcbp1.jpg |
Welcome! Keep the updates coming. Looks like a nice car!
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Thanks, glad to be here. I wish it was as nice of a car as I assumed was at the time of purchase but we will get to that later.
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I jumped the gun a little with reinstalling the package tray reinforcement and new bracket prior to sticking my rear wiring harness behind it. No big deal though, it works and is hidden. I can always disconnect the wiring and move it around later.
After the DS tub I moved to the PS and it was a piece of cake, it was done in less than half the time. The only bit of rust I have discovered is where the outer wheel well was overlapping the inner at the rocker. this was just some light surface rust that cleaned up good. Also like I mentioned before I kept the PS package tray reinforcement in place. [IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psylhei1l7.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psnobuoe8d.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psiartg8ne.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psptahnl5f.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pspdyqso4p.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps8cvl5c59.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psg1xn26ej.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pshkqydgpa.jpg[/IMG] |
Got it test fitted and frame welded back up and the tubs welded in.
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Now that everything is now welded in (missed two area on the DS side) I started to seal it all up. I used an Eastwood one part sealer. It works but took a long time to dry, a little longer than I wanted prior to me being able to paint. It says you can paint while it's curing but I waited. Next time I'll use a two part that cures a little quicker.
I dont have any photos but after this I ground down all the welds, primmed and painted flat black and used Rustoleum undercoating spray for the inner fenders. [IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pseunijwts.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psgpvch97p.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psywax1syc.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psyxj1hi1p.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psfwnc3tef.jpg[/IMG] |
I ended up choosing to go with the Ridetech 4-link setup with the Curry rear they offer in the narrowed length. Chose the Wilwood 12" brakes to hopefully clear my 15" wheels so I didnt have to change them out right now, they do clear.
I started by assembling the rear. [IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psu6jfrgj7.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psqirgydtc.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pspmnw4xx8.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psfttacl7v.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psx0l6b7e7.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psfazr16fl.jpg[/IMG] |
I installed the airbar and it was not too bad but had to do a good amount of hammering to get the bar in. The frame rails were spot on, only had to hammer in the front area of the trunk pan where it meets the floor pan and where the airbar bolts to the trunk floor.
This airbar is the "newer style" where the upper arms point inwards rather than outwards. This newer style's mounting plate that bolts up near the tunnel is a little different from what I've seen on the older style airbars, there are 5 bolts and the middle bolt is the center of the airbar. As you can see in the photos the center bolt is off about an inch to the left. I called spoke to Ridetech and showed them the photos and it turns out the floor pan is a little crooked from factory tolerances or it was replaced at some point incorrectly. [IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psmqcqb053.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psicyhvlmc.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdeyamvwi.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psbj4qbxzr.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxh54ijai.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psi1ijzsvi.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psuxdtdm3n.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psrzklv4ws.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psuunjyshv.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psrnct9kwj.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psufkvggze.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pstaybav4r.jpg[/IMG] |
After the airbar was installed I put the rear in and ran some tubing for the brakes. You can also check out my badass exhaust turndowns I hacked up and installed for the time being. The funny looking wheels do not stick out anymore, they actually fit pretty damn good now. Not sure what size the wheels are exactly but they are a 15" torque thrust wheel with 3.75" backspacing and they are running a 275 tire.
My rear ended up being more towards the driverside and it needed to be shifted to the passenger side 1/4". When centering my rear side to side I found that the uppers moved it exactly 1/4" when lengthening and shortening the uppers simultaneously every 1.5 turns with the single adjustable uppers. I lengthened the DS upper and shortened the PS upper 1.5 turns and it shifted the rear 1/4" to the PS where it sits perfectly centered. [IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psbsorm13b.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psctwiwanx.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psidsgtcx0.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps14nkuksf.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pstrzyv5ec.jpg[/IMG] |
Another little issue I ran into was the 3rd member came equipped with a 1310 series yoke rather than the advertised 1330 yoke. See photo below, the width is inline with a 1310 yoke at 3.219", my measurement was 3.211". The 1330 yoke should measure at 3.622". Both curry and ridetech advertisers a 1330 yoke. It made for an interesting couple of trips to the driveshaft shop across town. For some reason, Curry did not believe me and said there was no way because they do not even stock 1310 yokes. After emailing back and forth a few times they agreed to send me the correct yoke and threw in the correct u-joint and u-bolts. I'll install the yoke later down the road when I do the motor/trans swap so I just make one more trip to the driveshaft shop.
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lookin good!
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With all this extra articulation and my tall tires I hit the DS rear quarter and split the bondo lol. To not do this anymore I figured I would install the muscle bar but just my luck they sent me a 2nd gen muscle bar with 1st gen bushings. The 2nd gen bar is a little thinner in diameter. The quarter is shot and I'll replace it at some point. There is now a golfball sized hole where the bondo split.
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I was sent the correct muscle bar and installed it but it did not help with the body twisting and all and my tire woud still make contact with the quarter on both sides going up and down my driveway. I decided to purchase DSE subframe connectors. Also built some of those stands out of 2x4s to help with the install.
I started the install to find more rust as expected on the floor pan. I knew about this when I purchased the car but did not know it was quite as bad. All 4 low areas of the pan have rot and the firewall toeboards too. I'll hold off on the subframe connectors for the time being. I need to evaluate some things and see what I want to do with the floor and quarters. [IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps489isr8t.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psuo3lh2bl.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psharg6ggk.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psr3jcg8dp.jpg[/IMG] |
Quote:
You're doing good, keep after it. Don't compromise on your foundation, it'll never be cheaper to fix it then it is right now! After all, this is hot rodding, if it was easy everybody'd be doing it!:superhack: |
Thanks guys!
I kind of wimped our on fixing the quarters and floors due to my eagerness to get it back on the road. I work offshore and finding the time to do this work is difficult sometimes when I’m home so I just dropped it off at a local shop to get some of the metal workdone. I will be handling some of the smaller metal work items still but I’d rather not mess up the quarters and have the car look funny. I plan on doing the subframe connectors still and some cowl related items once i get it back. I’m still have few weeks worth of photos to upload and a few more new goodies that I’ve picked up I’ll be sharing soon. The shop had an 8 week wait for my car so I tried not to waisted too much time. My goal is to get her back on the road this spring. |
The shop said the cheapest way to get this stuff fixed was to send in as much of a shell as I could so I started by taking off the front sheet metal and the motor.
I found a creative patch on the PS side cowl piece that I'll be repairing when the car gets back and some rust on the driver side I'll be addressing. FWI, I placed the motor mounts back on the stands after I removed it. Dont let the pictures fool you. [IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psc42usium.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psrz13r4vj.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psw0k5fayq.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psee5asewe.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pso4l7m9u9.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pstpx4fvwn.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pstknswi9n.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psqsr41sxu.jpg[/IMG] |
Also found an area on the subframe that had gouges in it so I cut this area out and welded up a patch with some 1/8" plate.
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Got my new motor and trans. They came from a 2018 Escalade that was wrecked with 3K miles. Purchased it for $4500, not bad.
The motor is an L86 and the transmission is the new 10 speed 10l80. These Gen V motors are not like the Gen IV truck motors that were different from the LS2 and 3s. The longblock is the exact same GM PN, the only real difference between the L86 and LT1 is the accessory drive, oil pan and intake and I'll be addressing these soon. The general consensus is that these are a more difficult swap than an LS motor but its really not. Perhaps a little more expensive but not by much. The motor looks pretty big fully dressed sitting next to the big block I pulled out. The trans is massive, my 700r4 is in the background and hard to tell but its a few inches longer, taller and wider. [IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pstkykqh69.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxljn6pje.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps6foop6nd.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps2cnb393d.jpg[/IMG] http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps8xjnnrtt.jpg |
Here's the Holley oil pan install. I emptied all the oil out and let it drain overnight then removed the old pan prior to flipping the motor over. These new motors do not use an oil pan gasket if you don't know. GM uses a strong RTV silicone as the gasket so cleaning the surface really good is a must if you don't want oil leaks. I used the same sealant GM used, the PN is 12378521, it comes in a mini caulk gun tube. The pan requires a few items to be installed like the windage tray and pickup then slap it on following the torque instructions and that's it. The Pan is a lot smaller than stock and makes the motor look really small compared to how it was with the truck pan. I was also able to sell my truck pan for $80 so that's cool too. It felt good to take the pan off too with this being a used motor. With only 3K miles on this thing it checked out and passed my inspection.
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My next little project was to get an LT1 intake manifold and swap from my L86 intake. Some of the truck guys use this setup with their stock truck accessory drive and I got a few pointers from them that I'll share. First off the TB is upside down when compared to the LT1 position, they did this I'm assuming because the TB motor hits the water pump when you try to mimic the LT1 position. You must run it in the stock truck position and to accomplish this you need to clearance the TB motor and in my case, I also had to clearance the alternator slightly. I just used a Dremel and test fit it a few times until I got the results I was looking for. The TP harness plug is a tight fit but does not rub. Another issue you run into is the belt contacting the intake tube. To do this you must add an additional idler pulley to the alternator mounting bolt and wrap the belt below it thus pulling the belt below the intake tube. Requires a longer belt too. If you plan on doing the swap and want to use the factory style PCV tube from valley cover TB here is the correct PN in the photo below. If you try to use the L86 hose it will kink (very long in secont pic), the LT1 hose is shorter (last pic).
You can find these intakes on here or craigslist for around $100. I scored mine for $60 and sold the L86 for $80, made out like a bandit :guns: I'm basing all this and other upcoming changes to me using the stock truck accessories (for the most part) and running the Kwik Performance L86 bracket to run PS and high mount AC on the PS side. This is the only accessory drive I know of that will allow me to run the factory vacuum pump (one goal I'd like to make) and not break the bank and spend $2K+ to get things going. The Kwik setup is around $500. See link below. Wayne at Kwik also said he can equip his setup with the additional idler pulley to run the LT1 intake and sent me a few pictures of another customers setup. http://www.kwikperf.com/lt.html http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps2hb6q4js.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pspo5gbjd7.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pswsy7zyr1.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psm8ywjpqt.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psyocidi9f.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pschbieii6.jpg |
I chose to use the ITCBillet Gen V swap mounts they sell with short and wide engine mounts. One of the main reasons I went with these is because they advertise you can use these with the stock vacuum pump and thats something I wanted to achieve. I pulled the vacuum pump and went ahead and sat the motor down into the subframe to check fitment.
As you can see I'm a little ways off from getting them lined up so I reached out to ITCBillet for advice. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxyjigsoo.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pspqy1n4xe.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskjndkvtu.jpg |
ICTBillet viewed my photos and advised me to purchase new SBC stands because the car had a BBC in it and they use different stands. I got the stands in the mail only to see that I already have these same stands in the car already. About an hour later I received an email from ICT with a tracking number for a package and a note that said there was a shipping error originally. Turns out they have revised their mounts at some point and I got the older style. Look at the first photo in my previous post and compare to what they have online and you can see the difference, they dropped the bolt holes down a bit on the newer style adapter plates. The motor fit easily with these new plates. I also have both energy suspension mounts installed unlike the photos show.
Here's a shot of the newer style plates, kind of hard to tell by the lower section of the plate has been extended to allow for the bolt holes for the rubber mounts to sit lower. Also here's what is required for the vacuum pump to be installed, see cut DS plate, you must also eliminate the most forward mounting hole and your dreams of using that position. There are three positions on these plates and from what I was told over the phone the most forward mounting holes are for the stock SBC position, middle is 1.625" forward and furthest is 2.25" forward from stock position. Not 100% sure on these measurements as I was writing them down while on the phone with them. I found that the middle position more closely resembled the position of my BBC. I really do not think the most forward position would work either, it would put the head either in the firewall or too close for my liking. I think something in the middle would work great. The motor is currently jacked up at the rear of the oil pan and the motor is sitting level. Whenever I lower the jack and the motor more closely resembles the actual operating angle it moves it really close to the firewall and rests on the AC box holted to my firewall. I guess another way to see where it sits is to compare the balancer to the subframe. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskargkenf.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psebwfrxxm.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxv6hvm49.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskvhnm3cr.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdudy5vrc.jpg |
I mocked up the fitment of the vacuum pump and it requires the stock subframe to be notched. I cut out the area and stuck some cardboard in the cut section and test fit the motor and it cleared. I pulled the motor back out and welded it up with the cardboard as a template.
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Now that I have the motor and vacuum pump settled I can focus on fitting the exhaust. I have always planned on using longtube headers but I mocked up the stock L86 manifolds to see if they would fit. The DS manifold hits the factory steering box, if you are not using the steering box you should have room to use these or grind them down a bit.
I spoke to Ultimate Headers as they seem to be the only vendor selling headers that will fit the 1st gen camaros with the factory subframe. They were really nice and sent me a set of headers tacked up for me to check clearances since I'm not in the factory location. Also picked up a Ricks Tanks Restomod Tank with a 6th gen ZL1 pump. This thing will sit on the backburner for a bit until I get some of the body work sorted. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps0ltqqcib.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pshmsmtjqc.jpg |
I got the headers installed and they need a little adjustment to fit. They hit just about where the factory manifolds were hitting on the steering box. These could be resolved with a few blows from a hammer but the header guys are going to revise this tube to make it clear. Here's a few shots of it.
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I got some photos fitting the hood and core support to check clearances, the motor seems to sit a little high but the hood still clears. Motor is just resting on the firewall.
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I took the car to a local shop and just got it back. I was going to have them install new quarters and a floor pan. After they looked into everything a little more they only wanted to patch the lower quarters, both toe boards on the floor pan and the PS floor rather than do full floors and quarters. The shop said it was not a rust bucked and doing it this way would save me money so we went that rout. I hate having a shop do work on the car that I can do but with my work schedule and family its hard making time and trying to get it back on the road sooner than later. With access to both sides of every weld they performed I was good with it and it turned out good.
While it was there they suggested I drop the motor down a bit and I had them raise the tunnel a couple inches to clear the big trans. The shop got me into a good position to continue and I got some time off to go on vacation with my family. We went to Utah and enjoyed some cold weather and stopped by Kindig It Design where they film Bitchn' Rides. I got limited photos on the showroom floor, no photos were allowed to be taken in the shop so we dont spoil the show. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psupqn7gxq.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskerbbiji.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psvsiism1b.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psa6qfjl2r.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psv5qvqr4f.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psb64jqnu7.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psixyhmkov.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psmyxgphaj.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psap5sjuvz.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps9hdqxarc.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps9wy4uuzu.jpg |
Here's a few photos of the work on the floor and trans tunnel the shop did. I put a little seam sealer on the jointed area and sprayed some more primer on the new metal. The tunnel looks real good, only problem is the Vintage air does not fit in the original location anymore, I'll need to slide it over a little.
I did not take any pics of the quarters but you can use your imagination. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psgpbhqoia.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psfxyghrbl.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psizwziaso.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps5nke3w3d.jpg |
After the shop lowered the motor the vacuum pump was too close to get the motor back in so they cut a hold in my notched frame to fit it. once the motor was all the way in it might have just contacted the frame by a hair. I ended up recessing the frame a little more with some more 1/8" plate, not the prettiest but it works.
I ended up cleaning up the frame real good with degreaser and a pressure washer then hit it with some paint. The shop dropped the motor by using the shorter engine stands. I had the tall engine stands with the short mounts. It now has the short mounts and short stands too. They welded some spacers on either side of each engine stand to account for the additional width needed to make the short and wide motor mount happy. The motor now sits roughly 3/4" lower or so it seems. The sway bar is now about 1/4" away from the vacuum pump pulley so I'll shim the swaybar down later on. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pspvpr5fh5.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psybtocvox.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskbfydm8i.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psnspsmodr.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psedews0ud.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps3t1kai2s.jpg |
Cool build!. looking good!
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Great looking build. Looking forward to seeing your car come together!
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Thanks man! I read up on yours yesterday and it looks sweet. Hopefully by my third time building mine it will be half as cool as yours. Keep up the good work!
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Now that I have my car back I can take over and start tearing it apart more. I started with the PS side cowl box. The previous owner/s patched up the rot on the bottom of the box with some sheet metal and screws along with some sealer. I started tearing it down and got it off.
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I cleaned up the surface rust leftover once I got the box out and found a two areas that had a little rot so I cut them out and addressed them while I was there.
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I installed the new inner box and seam sealed everything real good (no pics) then installed the new outer skin. It turned out good I think. With my lack of free time I'm not exactly skimping out on grinding down all the welds but I did in fact leave some as is due to the location. If I ever sell the car I could care less if someone finds where I patched something up nor do I care if I see the areas again. All the welds were cleaned after and sealed to prevent corrosion later down the road.
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Next up was the DS cowl box. This side was really not bad at all. There was a little rust on the bottom of the outer skin and along the lower flange were the outer skin sits on. I cleaned it up real good and then drilled out the spot welds and cut off the outer skin.
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