Ricks Restomod with Vaporworx
 

I’m considering upgrading my 408 SBC with a Sniper TBI. If I use a Ricks Restomod tank and vaporworx controller setup to run the sniper, will this fuel system still be usable if I decide to do an average NA Ls3 swap down the road?

Yes. You could double check with Carl. He’s very helpful.

Don

Agreed. Should be able to use it with no issue but Carl makes the process real easy.

The Rick’s Restomod tank, GM Gen5 fuel module, and VaporWorx controller will work well with both setups.

Though a bit more expensive the Gen5 ZL1 fuel module will allow room for up to 750NA HP with no drawbacks when combined with the PWM controller. It will also handle up to 650 supercharged horsepower, so if the forced induction bug hits you're likely covered.

The PWM kit that should work well: https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/pwzl13b-tm/

Helpful fittings that usually make installing the fuel pressure sensor into the fuel line easier: https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/produ...outlet-kit-45/

Feel free to reach out at any time with questions.

Thanks Carl (and Don) Glad to hear the fuel system might be one part I don’t have to re-do if this SBC doesn’t work out!

If you think that ya LS3 swap is in your future, I suggest getting the Terminator X Max Stealth instead of the Sniper. Something like this:

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...parts/550-1013

You will be able to use it now and in the future, you will have to get the LS3 harness and DBW harness, but keep the same ECU.

I recommend the Terminator X Max even with a manual transmission, because it has DBW support and easier integration for VSS with a manual transmission.

If I can be of service with the tuning, please let me know.

Andrew

Thank you for that Andrew, that’s an option I hadn’t considered. I’ve been doing the analysis that I’m sure many have, weighing the cost of keeping an existing SBC vs going LS. I’m all about spending a little more now if it leaves options in the future. I’m a dumbass when it comes to anything above bolt-ons so this is great info!

You’re the first call I’ll make when it comes to getting the EFI stuff running. The 408 hasn’t been run since...2010, so I’m gonna try to make it work but who knows how that will go. I’m not rebuilding an old-school small block on a highly modified car when I know an LS3 will meet my goals for the car.

Putting together my shopping list for adding EFI to my existing 408SBC and ran into a couple questions I’m hoping you guys can help with. I’ll start with this one:

I have a Dakota Digital HDX gauge package so it seems like it’s wise to add the BIM-1-2HLLY module to pull some parameters from the Terminator X Max, but I’m finding there were past issues with that module not being able to pull over the Oil Pressure number. Anyone figured that out yet? Will the handheld still work with the BIM plugged in? Anything else I should be thinking of for using the HDX?

I have red the same but I believe they have been resolved. Dakota Digital was very helpful when I called with a few questions.

As for the handheld working, they make a "splitter" cable that you can have two plug-ins (one for handheld and other for BIM). There have been some issues with that I've seen on the forum but seems very hit and miss. Also have seen a few that are working with no issues. I plan to give this a shot when I get into my swap.

Thanks Will. At least now I can ask about the splitter when I call DD to ask about the module.

I’ve got an email out to MCB about the Ricks Tank. Need to figure out from them if the Ricks sending unit should be used or if a ZL1 pump with the sending unit built in can be combined with a block off plate for the sending unit hole in the tank.

If you have a programmable fuel level gauge, the sending unit that comes with the pump module will be more accurate.

Andrew

Sounds like the Dakota digital HDX setup is programmable, at least to a degree.

FUEL
Select sensor type
(BIM, SW 240-33, GM 0-30, GM 0-90, 63 VETTE, GM 40-250, GM 250-40,
FORD 73-10, FORD 10-150, VDO 10-180, ASIA 112-4, MANUAL ADJ)
Calibrate manual adjust fuel sensor

The sender in the pump module is 40 ohms full, 250 empty.

Andrew

Sweet! Thx Andrew. There’s a canned setting for that! Gotta take the wins where you can get ‘em!

I know mine is pretty dang accurate but it's fully programmable through the Racepak and I'm using the one the Rick's tank came with. When it has 5% left, it's damn near empty. When it's 30-40% left, I cant make hard hits with the big pumps.

Tank is on the way along with a block off plate for the sending unit hole. I got a fuel pump module with integrated sending unit on the way as well (MU2101).

While shopping, I ran across an M100281, brand new, from AC Delco, cheap! it’ll be interesting to see if they cancel the order due to the pricing error. If it goes through, since I’m using the one with a sending unit, I may just sell to someone here who needs it...cheap...or keep it as an emergency backup...

Let me know the cheap cheap price on the MU2101. I got the SS pump but ended up upgrading a lot so may just go for the ZL1 pump to be safe. I'll pass on the SS pump for those looking to stay around 450hp...

I bought the MU2101 for my project, the other one just cause it seemed like a deal. Turns out I think that’s the part # for a Cobalt pump, lol. Oh well, only cost me $35, lol.

Pulled the trigger on the Holley Terminator X Max Stealth and all the Holley ignition components. Paired with the restomod tank, ZL1 pump and vaporworx controller, I’m hoping my foray into fuel injection will go smoothly! I’ll be calling Andrew for tuning help once I get it all plumbed, wired and fired.

Hey Jeff. Looking forward to hearing from you. Shoot me an email when you're ready. projectgattago at Gmail dot com

Andrew

Not that he needs it but I will vouch for Andrews knowledge and ability to remote tune.. and his patience with EFI challenged people like myself.

I see the Vaporworx materials say that no post-pump filter is needed, but Holley prescribes a 10 micron filter post pump, anyone feel it’s necessary? I don’t want to add the restriction if the pump module’s filter is sufficient…

I have a 10 micron inline filter on mine with Carls Vaporworx controller. Carl did recommend the filter being as far back towards the tank as practical, but he didn't have a problem with me running one. I've always had them, and been in the 900-950 rwhp range without issue.

Same I have a 10micron in-line close to the tank. No issues at all beyond making sure compatible with e85.

Same as the above guys...I have a 10 micron filter as well with my Vaporworx too.

Perfect! Thanks for the input gents!

A bit of clarification.......

When using an OEM fuel module like the Gen5 SS, ZL1, CTS-V, etc., no inline filter is needed or recommended.

Most all modern OEM fuel modules have pre and post pump filters. There are no inline filters present in most modern chassis. The Gen3 Coyote GT500 is an exception.

The problem with using an inline filter is that some have an internal check valve. At key-off, heat soak will cause the fuel pressure in the line to go up. If there is a check valve in the filter there is no pressure release mechanism. That's what the 85psi pressure regulator/safety valve in the fuel module is for, heat soak pressure release. Once the line pressure goes over about 100psi the injectors will not work. Just a few weeks ago a customer had this exact problem and was measuring 190psi in the fuel line, hence leaving him stranded since the car would not start. If this happens the simplest way to get the car started is to release a bit of pressure through the fuel rail diagnostics port/Schrader valve. But, many aftermarket fuel rails lack this feature. I recommend to everyone to install one in an easily accessible location since it will also tell you if there is no fuel pressure.

There is no drawback to putting a filter in, but it's redundant. I've not run an inline filter in the Camaro since starting VaporWorx back in 2010.

For other pump types, where essentially the pumps are hung on a stick inside of the tank (Aeromotive, Tanks Inc., etc.) an inline fine element filter is mandatory. However, if a pressure regulator is plumbed upstream of the filter, the same heat soak overpressure condition will occur if a check valve is inside the filter body.

Carl, if we do have an in-line filter after a GM (CTS-V2) pump, should your vaporworx fuel pressure sensor be before or after that filter?

From a practical standpoint, it won't matter since the external filter will never become enough of a restriction to create a pressure delta.

For stand-alone pumps it's best to have the sensor just downstream of the filter as long as the filter is in the back of the car near the pump.
If the sensor is too close to the engine it will pick up the injector pulses and chase them, creating an unstable idle fuel pressure. In some cases, even with the sensor in the back, a Radium pressure damper is needed. This is most common in throttle body type injection systems where fewer, quite large, injectors are used.

Glad to hear you are back on this project. Holler if you ever need any help or an extra hand with anything...I'm right around the corner.

Be careful, I’ll probably take you up on that ;) I’ve gotta break this habit of getting momentum (and parts) just in time for summer to arrive.

When grounding the sending unit for the ZL1 pump, should I route a ground from the pump connector to the chassis AND split that ground to run along a twisted pair to the Dakota Digital HDX box? I’m basing my question off the second bolded section in page 11 of the gauge instruction:
https://www.dakotadigital.com/pdf/HDX_manual_main.pdf

Run the sending unit ground directly to the Dakota Digital box.

Thanks Donny. Makes sense, the actual pump is grounded to the battery, that’s what DD is telling you not to ground to their box, which, who would do THAT?