1970 Coronet Super Bee a.k.a Project Plan Bee
 

Hey all,
Happy new year 2022.

First, bare with my english, I live in Finland. The land of SISU,
also country with most world champions in motorsports and of course Santa Claus = Father Christmas = Joulupukki .

I thought its time to post my project.

Bought as a roller, disassembled left to rot, father-son project from South Carolina about 10 years ago. Then it sat in my yard for years. Been slow going project for past 6-7 years now.
Running own fabrication shop and building customer cars took toll on my own. I also make custom cooling products, you will see that in this.

Now past 5 years been working as hired help, been having more time to build this. Now days work as an foreman at local trade school machineshop. Have almost all the equipment it the world to make my parts.

SO I started looking one years earlier for new project.
Vision was some how clear. To build really one off, powerful Grand Tourer. Been saing that I'm driving it gross Europe to Monaco when its done.

It will be low, has hidden tube frame inside its body, inside roof frame,
inside frame rails, double rails at rockers and in the middle, around transmission and drive shaft.
Removable main hope, cross- and door bars.
Many body panels will be hand made from aluminium, by me. Ofcourse
Fluss front and back glass, one piece door glass.
As you can see in the photos, body has cutted / drilled open,
brassed and sandblasted with home made rotesserie, then I put my frame table together
and installed body on it so that top of the table as ground,
ride hight set to 4", as you can see, front rails dont work with that.
They may be relocating or changing

Engine: Brand new gen 3 Viper 8.3L, (how many knows that its build by ILMOR)
Modified Ilmor crank, my own tool steel main caps,
custom made one off Auto-Verdi connecting rods, Diamond pistons,
Autoverdi 5 stage drysump pump, custom ATI super damber,
ported heads, custom cam, home build intake manifold
with (+2000hp) water to air intercooler,
two cores stacked in one set off head plates. 4"x4"x20"
4.9L Kenne Bell twin screw supercharger,
twin 82mm Bosch electric throttle bodies and much more.
Almost all one off custom pieces.

ECU and Fuel:

Maxxecu Pro-ecu, seq fuel with 10x1500cc/min Bosch EV-14 injectors,
Aeromotive 6 gal/min mechanic fuel pump,
seqvental ignition, IGN-1A coil per cyl.
Ecu controlled boost control. (secret stuff still)

Cooling:

Total of 12 cores, all the usual and then some. 2 Piesburg pumps
Even some experimental stuff.

Transmission:

Reactor product custom made SFI flexplate,
build Mercedes W5A900 trans out of 57 Maybach,
(same used in SLRMcLaren Mercedes),
my own adapter/midplate, paddles, OFGear controller.
Dana-Spicer aluminium 4" driveshaft

Front axle:
Corvette C4, moved 3" forward, fast ratio rack,
mounted stock points on the tube frame,
double adjust coil-overs and air lift cups.

Rearend:

Ford 9.75 with true trac, 3.08:1 gears,
own design floater axle system, modern wheel bearing pack,
Self machined (from MoC410m) axles. 3-link, d a coil-overs and air lift cups.

Brakes:

front 15" 6 pot Brembo
rear 14.5" 4 pot Brembo

Wheels and tires:
Custom ordered OZ Racing HTS Leggera
front 8x19 245-40-19 Bridgestone
read 12x19 345-35-19 Bridgestone

Electronics:

State of the art CAM bus system by my good friend,
SPLeinonen (dotcom)
Gauges: Tablets, another good friends Real Dash app.
realdash(dotnet)

join the ride, its gonna be epic...

From oldschool hand fabrication (like Pullmax) and welding to 3d world (printing, scanning designing) to cnc-machining.

To be thought and build, not bought and assembled.

to be continue..

I LOVE those cars!! Definitely will be following this one. :thumbsup:

Following for updates

Sounds like it's going to be an amazing project. These cars are so cool since you simply don't see them often let alone modified like you have planned. Best of luck and keep us update.

Interested

70 Bee
 

Always had a thing for the 70 Bee...I'm looking forward to watching the progress of your build.I had a 70 383 4spd Roadrunner about 6-7 years ago so I have a soft spot for those b body cars...cheers

that looks like its going to be an awesome car looking forward to seeing this one progress

Well, lets show some progress.
Actually wanted to show what I did before sand blasting.
Back panel was shoot, I knew that,
had another panel ready, trunk gutter where also rutted, those I got repo but had to fab quarter edge lid that folds to gutter.
I also had to make the gutter
front corners. Tig weld them on and hammered
flat.
Seam between quarter and sailpanel, usual a rust spot in Mopar, well cut that off and welded a piece there.

Last one is a bonus, jump ahead abit and show have is coming. I took a shapping class in Sweden. Per the Metalman Sweden. Mechammer inventor Ben was there also as a tutor, luckily he became my tutor. Made one rear corner piece there and another at home, few years later. They will be welded on. So one seam less.

Dont know why some of the pics are sideways or can I adjust them. Maybe Jody can..

Fixed... Yeah, that happens sometimes usually when a pic is taken in portrait instead of landscape like off a cell phone. Seems to be happening with Iphone pics only. If you take all your pics in landscape mode there's no issue. The solution to fix them when sideways is to download them from the thread onto your computer, rotate them correctly, and re-attach to the thread. For some reason it seems to only happen with cell pics taken vertically, and only Apple products.

https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...+Landscape.jpg

Getting low. -er.

as the plan is to get this car low, put still driveable low.
pre-measures shows it could be around 126cm/ 46" of total height.
Wheels and tires will effect it of course, but we'll see.

I got an idea to rise the rear frame rails above the rear axle.
To be able to rise the axle with out loosing suspension travel.
when mounted the body on the frame table,
I fab'ed adjustable stands, like jack stands.
Cut'ed the frame rails from rockers and from trunk edge.
Loose the original wheel tubs at this point also.

Leaving the trunk floor to stock location for now.
Then jacked it up 3".
Made pieces to fit the caps,
bead roller the edge to give same curve as stock rails..

After they where welded on, supported the rear panel from table.
I cut'ed the rear frame rails off, and floor under rear seat.
they where is good shape but they where too narrow for my plans.
Made new wider ones with magnetic brake. Again, with same kind of radius as stock ones. Now I can fit a tube in. Tube frame. That's coming, as are the bigger tubs.

Very nicely done on the raised frame rail kick-up & transition pieces.

Looking good Juhani!

I was wondering about your build a couple of months ago

Thx guys,

Hey Joe,
Project is moving ahead.

As a Mopar Or Nocar guy "Love It".....

Wheel tubs time.

Making card board temples, tryed some patterns, settle for this. Make one piece, with three step beads, 1/2" radius at edge, easier to weld together. Making tubs in three pieces, again easier to bead roll them, then tig weld them together. Not too big and grazy, want to run with back seat. This is Grand Tourer..

Good friend loaned his '06 Ford GT rear wheel to mock up. I just imported set of one off Asanti's for him. Really like how low its coming. Put also shows, need to turn on my plasma again. Open up opening more.

Was thinking should I also widen those quarters now? Would be easy...

That looks killer! :king:

Thanks Jody!

updates...

So I scored big time. Wasn't cheap but bought it anyway. Brand new gen 3 8.3l "crate" engine fell in my lap.
Let just say its left over from some motorsport-program. (Cant tell more)
Oh boy do I have some plans for this...

Its time to start building the tube frame. Building it from 1 1/4 DOM tubing. Was calculation for a long time should I build it from that new high strength tubing, Swedish Docol R8. Actually all are made by SSAB here in Finland but shipped to Sweden and sold from there. SSAB is Swedish company. But I decided to go with familar DOM. I may have to compesate weight with more power..
Raising the floors 3" so first tube goes to upper inner part of rockers. Then small pieces between ans second tube under those. Should be stiff piece. Next cross tube and bended tubes to inside rear frame rail. All to way to back panel. From there forward one pair as "subframe connectors". Frame rails and all inside is painted with industrial grade gray 2-k epoxy before hand.

Another score, cheap roller C4 Vette, I bought it just for front suspension. One of my friends needed the rest. So kind of free be for me. Luckily I've a dually and large enclosed trailer also my company is one of few GM Performance centers around here so I have access to GM files. Body dimensions. Front axle mounting dimensions and angle.. Do you guess by now where this is going...

Then after some measurements, turned on my plasma and cutted off the whole front windshield forward off. Where we are going, we don't need torsion bars..

Then another score, came across craigslist-add. Light rear end crashed Maybach 57 parting out in Florida. Got my good friend to go and check that the trans was good and right number one. (722.649) Not so popular in US but widelly used in Europe, many kind of motorsport. Holds a lot of tq. Even in stock form. Of course it can be beefed up and this will be.
This has two reverse gears (Aftermarket controller can run both).
Modern Mopars NAG-1 is same family Mercedes trans.
NAG-1 =W5A580 (580Nm) mine W5A900 (900Nm)
Have no idea how to connect this to V10 but I'm sure I'll sort it out some how..(spoiler alert, I will)

Engine is disassembled and mated to trans. Still no glue what thickness need to be at this point, so made plywood adapter extra thick. To make sure I'll have exrta space from trans to frame.
Made a installing frame/jig for drive train. Easy to move on top of the table. Get it centered. Front suspension pick up point jig started but that will change. More from that later update..

Roll cage fab.
I wanted to hide tubes inside roof frame. That means that I need to support and cut roof frame to many pieces. Trick is to get everything line up later. Use original roof skin and drilled spot welds as guide. Main hood will be removable
(I know its not inside NHRA or FIA rules but I don't care. Doing an roadcar.)
and l come under those front to back roof tubes. Locking bolted with machined shoulder tabs. Roof frame tubes are bended one piece from floor frame near door lower hinge to back to truck frame rail tube right after wheel tub.
They will be tie up with removable (with roll cage clamps) horizontal tube.
Floor center lower tubes will come under rear end and connect to same point at trunk rails. Also with boltable locking clamps.
Front upper cross tube fitted to fit roof skin and windshield channel, witch will revolve to flush glass channel.

Last pic shows center section of the frame. Kind of drag car douple frame but more smoother shape. Wheel tub has been trimmed for quarter to be cleco'd for test fit.

This is gonna be one bad mofo!!

Lets talk little about this oddfire odd engine.

I was close to use 6.1 Hemi for this. But when opportunity to buy this dropped to my lap, choice was made. Hemi was put to side (for wife Challenger project). First idea was to use couple Holset-custom turbos. I've taken partin gen 2 twin turbo build earlier, so I know what kind of power and tq numbers these monster will put out, easilly.
But my love to twin screws starts back at 2000. I was in Florida, looking would I relocate there to live. My cousins friend had supercharged street race Fox-body Mustang. That was a wild ride. I've builded turbo- and roots blown engines since '93.
So I made decision that I should do what I advice other to do.

So started to do research and quickly found that Roe-racing was only one.
But they didnt have intercooler and used small head unit (mainly because bigger ones didnt fit under Vipers hood.) My good friend Johan (poweredbyjohan.com) in Sweden, has gen 2 with Roe kit. Same guy was in US tour with his blood red '68 Charger RTR. Viper has 750hp, witch is plenty for street car. But ofcourse I wanted more.

Idea came to build my own intake, with custom two row core. (I build custom cooling systems, European factory hand makes cores for me.). So I drawed up the needed core size and asked factory to build it as high power as size allows. They calculated that this core will support 2200hp. ( w/ ambient cooled coolant temps with front mounted heat exchanger)

Then came time to get strong enough parts. Main caps was no brainer. Those where made by my friend with cncmill, from our local steel. Imatra Imaroc (Moc) 410m tool steel. Tolerances where left tight, little left to line bore and hone. ARP hardware is used.
Was looking for stroker crank but ($6000+shipping) was out of my budget. Here no one was interested to off set grind the stock crank, more cubs that way. (I've two stock ones). Fixed the oiling problem same time. Actually I do that for a lot around Scandinavia. I'm known to do that. Customers from Finland, Sweden, Estonia, Russia.
Looked around for con.rods. Twin screw is second hardest to beat rods.
Cylinder pressures are high from low rpm. I called around the world,literally.
Stopped calls at legendary Auto-Verdi, in Sweden. Company that makes rods for ex. Nascar, NHRA Pro-stock, Porsche classes, Köenigsegg and F1 power boats. (autoverdi.com)
Stefan was really cool and helpful guy. He was ready to help me after I told what I was building. After all, no one has ever done this. He was sure he can make me a set of forged billed rods that could handle 200hp/each. More than enough.
So I packed block, crank, one rod-piston set and all other needed so they can rotate and calculate what can be done.
Roadtrip took me 4 days, 2 ferry rides. But it was forth it. After talked with Stefan, I desided to turn my engine to dry sump.
After all Auto-Verdi also makes world best dry sump pumps. Those also are used by the PROs around the world.
Time that engine was in Stefans shop, I cut'd resently builded front frame off again and started to plan a new, wider one.

At first picture is Kenne Bells 4.2L unit, but after I visited the supercharger factory and talked about my project, showed my custom intercooler core I came back with their newer, bigger 4.7L head unit. Got really good information about intake design and cooling system. Have revisited them few time after that one. They are following this with great intress. I have some new, never seen stuff coming.. Funny story about my IC core, I'd give it ispection to boss man. He looked it long and closely. Asked where did I get my it. Chinish one, perhaps? He sad that after 3 decades he havent seen one like that. Not sure was I really smart or stupid...

Stick around and we both will see that..

Last pic show how you can spot 4.7 and new 4.9L head units. They have already build in watermeth injection nozzle port.

I don't have much to add other than I love where this build is going. Keep it up and good luck!

Front frame time.

I've always disliked front overhang.
From front egde to the wheel arch to front bumper is ludicrous half a meter.
50cm~20".
Made desicion that I'm gonna move
front axel forward 3" to to compensate that. And get more room for all the things that are coming on the front part of the engine. As I told last update that I'll build this as an drysump.
Need room for the huge Auto-Verdi 5 stage pump and up coming custom ATI Superdamper. Behind the steering rack.
Now its time to do it. So new frame needs to be wider than before as well.

Some of my pics are still sideways even I try to do as Jody guided. Sorry about that.

Like I previously told, my company was for years a GM Performance Center, (gave it up) so I got my hands on C4 Corvette frame/ control arms pick up points and all the angles.
So I made an installing jig on based them.
Here it is in action. Front cross members is mounted at its new location in Vettes specs,
them an negative jig is made to show the pickup points of the control arms.
The plan is not to use original cross member.
Double tube frame coming.

This is a good time to show my tube notcher, Baileighs TN-250 with a Finnish twist. I soon realized that you cant make notches to tight bented pieces. Cant turn them down, they will hit angle meter and cant turn them pointing up. Saw doesebt go upwards. Got me thinking...
So I cutted pieces of different thickness of flat stock and sheet metal. Chanced the axle housing mounting bolts to studs. Now I can rise the axle housing every millimeter from 0 to 35. So I can turn tube pieces pointing up and notch them spot on.

Bar between LCA is piece of solid bar, drilled and tapped so that LCA can be simple bolted on the ends. Made little U-pieces to get center frame piece to be bolted on and of. All will be tig-welded.

To be continue...

P.S. been thinking that this gets views but not much comments... come on fellas .. this must be different than the most... and it will get more different as we go on, I'll promise..

I'm diggin' the creativity on the build as well as the build tools.

I fixed them, not sure why it wouldn't work for you. One way to eliminate this issue is to take all pics in landscape. This is a real cool project, and it's great to see something different like this. Especially a Mopar, as they are very cool cars but don't have as many options for the chassis like some of the others.

Thx again Jody.

These are old pics, taken with Iphone, I guess.
I upload them, them remove them, turn them, save them and upload again. Did that so many times that my head started to spin...

Mopars, well they do have better front suspension geometry than GM or Ford. Even with torsion bars.
Not much needed to make them a corner rockets. Few bolt on's will do. Have done a few and they are super nice. Specially when loosing the t-bars and installing coil overs.

Aftermarket chassic does not do for me. They are copies either some gen Vettes or Mustang II for olders hot rod stuff. Why buy one when I can build my own as well.

As in many other things in this project, its not about buying other builded stuff and bolt them on. Its about coming up with design, result and building it. Myself (or some cases other pro, one of my friends maybe)

After I build that jig for C4, been using it to many different makes and models. '57 Crown vic (w/ different, an manual rack) '50 Buick, '68 Satelite and '56 Chevy pick up. Pick up with Vette rear axle also.
All have performed great. Only down side is design element that engine is behind the rack, almost mid engine car. Have had to mod firewall in many cases.

C4 is right width for most, around 60"
Newer generations grown too wide. You can still install one of them but geometry (acherman) goes out of the window with stock racks. They need custom racks and longer control amrs means less room for engine and stuff.

I've '69 Mustang in my shop with full DSE Alumaframe and q-link set up. Installed by me. Again, that based from Vette. More on that later.

But back to Plan Bee, it's coming along. Actually pretty far ahead. But we'll how fast updates will come here

Our car building regulations chanced a year ago (again) this time not so favor for my project. On the supercharger part. With old rules, it was a favor for me. But ongoing projects have transition period to end of next year 2023. So I need to get this thing through the inspection and plated before that. Going to be busy 20 months..

Later..

I got the pics dilemma sorted. Editing them to square form seems to do the trick..

So back to front frame.

Wanted to do alot of triangles, the most strongest tube design. Connecting A-pillar tubes to front frame tubes from two places. before and after the front suspension.

Here is a trick I use im my tube bending jobs. Eliminates most of directional errors. Couple different lengths of soft 1/2" aluminium fuel line. Easy to bend, even back to straight.

UCA mounting base also from seamless tube, top piece from braked 6mm (1/4") steel.

I didnt take any pic when building rack mounting base. Or I do but would give up too much for now..

Also I had to install my new wheels on to check how much I've room on full lock.

Next go to get engine back from Sweden, installing engine to frame. Also start to design my own intake manifold.

Stay tune..

Nice work!

Rods are here. Went back and picked up the engine from Auto Verdi, Sweden.

Rods are totally one off, made from very special swedish military (not grade, but real military steel) steel, forged and cnc-machined billed pieces. Ready to balancing. European precision. For this engine and for twin screw supercharger. Cylinder pressure rises fast at low rpm. These are made and guaranteed for 200hp per rod. But have to use 1/4" wall wrist pin with full wall. Cant have any lighten one.

Really nice shop, hospital grade clean. Stefan is super cool guy. Provides rods for many Nascar, Pro Stock and F1 power boat teams. Those Koeningsegg rods where sexy. Sorry that I can show any pics from inside the shop.

Same time picked up my dry sump oil pump. Also from Auto Verdi. 5 stage, all sucktion stages are internally channeled, to back of the pump to oil air separator so one stage can be used as an vacuum pump. Provides 99.99% airless oil back to tank. Mounting tabs are also custom ones, designed to fit Viper engine block. But not like Competition Coupe, not putting this under oil pan, but to passenger side of the block. Had to make room for it, loose lower water hose connection, belt automatic adjuster and oil filter housing. They need to be relocated. I got a plan...

Had nice suprise when arrived home, my own design mail caps arrived. One of my friend took the task of machining them from our local steel factory tool steel Imaroc 410 M. (MoC410m) new ARP hardware. Next to linebore.

Had to install empty block to se how it fits my new frame.. had steering rack/engine cradle finished. More that later.

To be continued...

Next task is to make outterskin of rear wheel tubs. Have glued tubs to quarters on earlier builds but now wanted to make them "right". Made them with flance to match the lip in original wheel archs. Glued again but now with 2k body adhesive.

Paper template, bead rolled edge and some stifnings. Tig welded and hammered. Used mig to hang them on. Hard to do by you self.
Made them as big as possible. Even had to cut down the top most outter corner so that quarters would fit.

Gray stuff is industrial grade epoxy paint. Body will be painted all over everywhere with that stuff.

Little tip again. Flancing hand tool. Just an old 1/2" socket T-handel, one end cutted off and slotted with 1mm cutting wheel. Piece of squar tube and small hose clamp make a easilly adjustable back stop. Just bend in little steps and go back and forward. Works great.

Now I can start hanging new quarters..

Very cool,love everything about it:thumbsup:

Thanks guys for kind words.

Time to hang the quarters.

All is build so that the new repro stock width will fit. Now days all is about wide body.

Should I do that..?

No, I'll "massage" just a little, for the rear tubs. 1/2" wider from the middle. Just used kick shrinker to shrink pie cuts to the top flance. Tricky to get them done and then copy to other side.

First thing is to sand them clean and paint inside with same 2-k epoxy as everything else. Left strip at the edge without paint. Will paint after welding and hammering. Also installed some sound deadening. Got carried away abit. Nobody will ever see, but had to do it..

Tig welded all around. Exept the wheel arches. Those I glued with 2-k body adhesive. Really strong stuff. Area of finger tip (1cm2/ 0.15sq in) will hold 200kg (440lbs). Glue is closed cell stuff. will not absorb moisture. Also fitted quarter extensions witch I made years ago in Per the Metalman Sweden's shapping class with Ben, father of the Mechhammer.

Need to finish the seams, slapper, shrinking disc, hammer and dolly to get everything straight and smooth.

Next is time to modified the front fender wheel arches and I already have started to with rear end, full floater.. again some thing different.. When some careful calculations and I can order my wheels..

Rear end time.

Have build few 9" good and pro versions
(read expensive and bonkers expensive)
I dont have that kind of money or dont want to spend them on those.
Also I need low ratio gears. Low 3 something.
Trans dont have long overdrive (0.83) and engine will not turn high rpm.
So if I want car to have any kind of higher (expected) top speed, I need gears. And when Gear Vendor has not return my enquiring.. LoL
-"I need GV-OD to SLR MCLaren Mercedes.." 8)
Have seen many times that all 9" low gears sets without FORD stamping will be loud, sooner or later.
So 9 inch was out.

So something else...

Started looking strong alternative. One of the first looked Dana 70.
But I chosed Ford 9.75". From F150 with 3.08:1. Will be with True-trac.

Some of you may remember that I discuss about this at rear end section with my first design.

Idea is to build full floater with modern easy to get new, affordable parts. Had to forget single bold systems, dont want to start fab wheel arches. Actually they went to my customer project.

After rear end arrived from States,
I disassembling it and started to design needed parts/ tools. Had local laser shop cut parts, local machine shop machine turned tools for me. Years biggest car show was around the corner and had to spread workload. And I fractured my index finger at work.
Tools is to get tolerance grinded 50mm /2" solid bar in the middle of carrier side bearings place.
Inserting tools to fit in tolerance machined wheel bearing hubs, so that 50mm bar is in the middle and can be used to verify hub to be at axle center line.
Installed heat to slide on axle tube, shrank to lock hubs to correct width, tig weld them with using insert tools. Also use them to check that hubs still where in the middle of the axle center line.. Wheel bearing hubs are from Cadillac CTS-V, so is backing plate, parking brake, 4 pot Brembo calibers and 14.5" aftermarket rotors.



Axles will be done by me with 4axle cnc lathe..
From 300M high strength steel, again from our local steel factory.
Ford has 34 splines, Caddy has 33 splines.
They actually are done in now, real time. Yesterday did first tool paths for them.

Wheel bearing hubs still need to be lighten, will do that when welding brake caliber brackets on them. Also fab more stiffing to the link brackets and axle tubes..

Rear end will be hang with double adj. coil overs, 2.5" air jacks and 3 link, was easy to calculate bar lines, angles and lengths when car is on the frame table. Bars are made from that Docol R8 high strength tubing, CNC machined threaded ends.

Forged M20 spherical rod ends are modified, bearing halfs and balls are pressed off, made simple molds and took them to my friends company. They will cast polyurethane buslings on them. More about them later. Another great idea for sure.. I just hate solid rod ends, all the noise come straight through. Great for race car but not for Grand Tourer.

Drive shaft will be another challenge. Trans has fixed flance( from IRS rear), drive shaft would need to have slide and hold around 1500 ft lbs of tq.
But I've an idea.. (an wild idea)

Havent decided whether to buy the diff cover or make my own... I do have many cnc machines at my disposal now days..

Now I can measure and order my wheels... Something different for sure, again..

Thanks for continuing to post updates. This is an incredible build!

I’m have to start checking this build out from the beginning when I get time. It’s badazz

Wheels are here.

I wanted european supercar style, no 2 to 4" lip for me.

from OZ Racing, Italy. No super $$ 3 piece forged for this, again this is gonna see road alot. But these are real racing grade heat threaded wheels, not anyway any "oriental cheap suprises"..

Fronts are basic list wheels 8.5 x19. Wanted to run with 18" but those brakes that "dropped" to my lap don't fit in. Had to upgrade to 19s.

Rear one are custom ordered 12x19". Had to settle for 5x130mm bolt pattern (911 Porsche CUP blank) but ordered same time 15mm (¨1/2") boltable spacer/pattern changers. 5x130/5x114.3. TUV- proof so I can run them here in the street.

Tires are 245-45-19 and 345-35-19
Front ones are brand new Continentals but I choose them by close matching thread pattern.
Rear ones are Bridgestone Potenza, kind of funny case:
bought outdated ones from Europe. When arrived, was confused why sticker says Enzo '02- and "SCUDERIA" embossed on the side of the tire.
After some google research: "RE050 scuderia" founded out that these are Enzo factory installation tires..got 2 pairs of them. They where dirty cheap, so no problems burn them setting and testing traction control..

Brakes are made by Brembo.
381mm/ 15", 6 piston fixed mounted front calibers and
368mm/ 14.5", 4 piston fixed mounted rear calibers. Parking brake shoes inside rotors as shown at rear end post.

Last pic is tease about what to come.. if you have followed, you may remember that I've moved front axle 3" forward.. Have to make those fit..

Later..

The wheels and brakes look great.

Looks great, love the wheel choice. Tulee vitun hieno!

Some cool stuff going on here,keep you the good work.

Wow is this an awesome build.

Thank you for sharing this build.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Front fender time.

Since I moved front axle 3" forward, I need to modified my steel fenders to fit.
And with 19" wheels, stock wheel arches (for 14") doesent fit quite right.
Now is good time to make the chances, plan how to cut is critical.
Want to keep side markers, one thing that makes musclr car different than our "normal" euro- or japanise cars.
New wheels and modded frame forged me to rise arches 2" to clear wheel when turning. Also arches looked tobe little too long for my taste so I nipped 1" way from the middle. That turned me to add 4" add the back cut line.

Good fitment, tig welding, relentless hammer and dolly work and you dont see the seams anymore. I could slap and shrink them to smooth but why? they will get coated/ bondo'ed (even thin skin)/painted anyway.
Driver side fender have had some kind of fender bender so I chanced front part, so many screw pulley hammer hoses that no point to weld them.

In one pic you can see how I fix are when it has got "fed up" cant shrink anymore. Cut round circle out and weld new piece. Try to avoid sharp corners. Doesent shrank so much...

Is it just me or those 19" wheels and 15" rotors dont look that (mean too) big anymore...

Now I can start planning side skirts.. Dont want too much but want something.. One idea is to make Viper like side exhaust inside rockers... Mufflers, yes you guested. Have to be made...

Again, I will leave something coming to last pic.

After I made brakets and bolded fender on, I realized: HOLLY CRAP!!
there will be 90cm (3ft!!) from grill to water pump pulley..
I have some real estate for my serios cooling systems...
Tell me, should I post teaser, what I have come up..

up to next one..