Ford Steering rack
 

I have a modified 66 C10 with a custom chassis. It has a front steer 80's Ford mustang power steering rack in it. I see it in a lot in other custom chassis. Not really thrilled with how it feels. Looking to replace it. Anyone have suggestions from experience?

What don't you like about how it feels?

What is the flow rate in gallons per minute and pressure of your power steering pump?

Front tire size and alignment specs?

I have already changed out the pump that came with my Drive Junky pulleys. At a stop it wouldn't turn the wheels. Replaced it with a Turn one pump, 1500psi/3gpm. Fronts are 22 x 255/35. 1/16 toe in, camber is pretty close to straight up and caster is about 5 to 6. It drives fine but just don't like the feeling driving straight down the highway. Almost feels like a dead spot off center when adjusting left to right.

Is the steering wheel centered on the rack?

Did you do the alignment?


To your question I have had good luck with the DSE rack in other applications but it is stupid expensive.

The steering wheel is not centered on the rack, about 1/2" more on one side that the other. Could that be an issue and why?
Don't see a DSE rack listed for 80's Mustang.

1/2" more what? Rack travel or wheel travel? Just like steering boxes, rack and pinions are tighter in the exact middle of their travel. It is important to get the steering wheel centered to the steering mechanism, not the external steering stops or the tire rubs.

You glossed over my alignment question.

This one. https://www.detroitspeed.com/product...parts/090221DS

Yes, I did the alignment. I just went out and measured. It wasn't as bad as I thought. As measured on the exposed tie rod threads, there is 1" on the passenger side and 7/8" on the drivers side. 1/8" difference. From what I understand I should make both sides exposed threads the same? My custom steering wheel has screws on the hub where I can move in 10 degrees increments to get close, but as I have paddle shift it would nice to have it straight up.

Just my experience, I've been using the 84 T-bird rack on a 67 Camaro going on 20 years now. It works great. My sub frame uses Mustang II components. Compared to what's available now it's a bit outdated.

It goes down the road like it's on rails and is very responsive. I spent considerable time on the alignment. Tire wear is minimal and it handles well. The chassis builder included an optional control valve for the GM pump, but noticed no difference.

https://live.staticflickr.com/4025/4...f6275507_o.jpg

A dead spot in steering could be your u joints out of phase, or if you have a high angle on one it could be trying to bind. You should be able to turn the wheel with a single finger. Steering wheel size can also play a role in steering "feel"

Measuring exposed threads can be an indicator that something is way off but past that it is a meaningless measurement.

Centering the wheel to the box, or in this case, the rack and pinion:

First, make sure that the turn signal canceling cam is in the proper location in relation to the hub with the wheel steering wheel straight. Correct that first.

With the tie rods disconnected or the pitman arm removed count the total number of turns in the steering box or rack. We disconnect those parts to ensure that we are not hitting something external like a steering stop or frame rail with the tire. Remember, we are centering the wheel to the box.

Divide total number of turns in half. If you are 2.5 turns lock to lock, then you 1.25 turns each way off of center. The actual number is less important than having the same amount of steering wheel travel in both directions. This is non negotiable, spend the time to get it right.

If you are off there are several ways to adjust. If the you have stock column you really can't make the adjustment at the wheel so you have to do it at the box or rack. If you have an IDIDIT column you can easily reclock the hub and canceling cam by just turning it. GM columns are 26 spline at the wheel, most racks are 36 spline so the rack will give you a finer adjustment. Some columns are also splined and that gives you another shot at getting it perfect. I have adjusted all three before to get where I wanted to be.

Get a real alignment. It is pretty hard to measure toe on a 29" tire to .060" with a pair of tape measures.

To expand on musclerodz point. Any bind in the system, from a U joint to a hub rubbing on the column will make a difference in feel. Some cars, if you tighten all the linkage with the car hanging from a two post lift, the linkage will be bound up on the ground.

Thank you. Have my work planned for today.

Mission accomplished. Had the truck wheels straight ahead. Popped the tie rods then centered the rack. Then adjusted the tie rods to fit the steering arms, without moving the tires. Exposed threads at the tie rods went from 1/8" difference when I started to 1/4" once the rack was centered. Not sure it means anything? I have a alignment scheduled. Picture shows under the rack boot. The piece with the set screw, could it be a factory adjustable limiter?

Attachment 78726

Nope, that is the rack extension. I am guessing your track width is wider than the stock Mustang II 56.5" so they use those extensions to widen the rack by moving the inner tie rod further out.

Remember that if you decide to change the rack to something else. You will have to swap those pieces over to your new rack along with the longer boots.

Factory steering stops are the inner tie rod end bottoming out in the rack. You can adjust those with plastic clip on bushings to get less rack travel. They are a factory piece and still available from most of the mustang suppliers and were OE on the 93 Cobras

Good to know. Thank you. My track width is around 62". I am useing the clips, but in my case they are up against the rack extensions.