LT4 delema
 

Have a LT4 8L90 connect and cruise pkg. in my 66 pickup. Had a drive idler seize which took out both belts. Parts coming next week. Part of a belt wrapped around the crank pulley. Took a lot of effort to pull out the belt. Delma- I could not get a small 3/16" piece of belt out from behind the hub. Do I leave or go through the process of pulling the hub?

That was the right call. :thumbsup:

I guess nothing is easy. On closer inspection I still have a few threads of belt at a small relief at crank hub. Doesn't look like it is wrapped around hub. Just a small piece about 3/4 inch by about less than 1/8 thick. Kinda think once I run the engine it will spit out, hoping, maybe? Original question stands?

If that piece of belt somehow got between the crank hub and seal is the only problem that comes to mind. Seems unlikely though. You could always do a quick fire up and see if it spits it out.

Parts should be here this week to do the idler. Thinking just that, fire it up, then recheck.

Well nothing is easy. Reassembled accessory drive and replaced MAF plug. Started up and ran for a couple minutes. My little piece of belt spit out. Took for a 8 mile drive. Thought I could smell rubber. Checked under hood and all looked well. Came home (another 3 miles) and just when I started to back into the garage, large oil leak out of crank pulley.....sigh. Looks like I have to pull the pulley and replace the seal. Must have been some belt in there that I couldn't see. Anyone pull the pulley? Wondering the best way to lock the engine so I can loosen hub bolt?

You can get a flywheel holding tool that replaces the starter. Here’s one example

https://www.amazon.com/ICT-Billet-Fl.../dp/B081VXWJJP

Don

I like that, but its there and I'm here. I was looking at something little more crude. There is a small inspection cover for converter and flywheel on the A8 where I can place a bar which would catch a converter bolt to stop rotation.

Attachment 80538

Attachment 80539
So to take the crank hub off I heated the bolt for 1 minute then hit with impact. Bolt came right out. Used a puller to take off hub. Pictured is the big piece of belting that got behind the hub and damaged the seal.

That was my fear, but hoped the odds were on your side. Like I tell myself, "gave me something to do" lol.

It was a risk, but not really any more work..........and it could of been good. Lol

Installed new seal and slid in the crank hub and seated with a longer bolt. Installed the new torque to yield bolt. GM spec is 110ftlb then back off 1 rotation, 59ftlb then 125 degrees. I used a 4 foot floor jack handle on my breaker bar. 100 degrees was all I could get. I will use a white marker to mark bolt and hub so I can monitor, but I don't think its going anywhere. :wacko:

So truck is back together. I installed new updated idler and belt, assembled MAF plug checking and rechecking wiring. It had thrown multiply codes because of wiring pulled out of MAF plug, so reset. Two of the original codes remain, P2227 and P2228, both to do with barometric pressure. I believe the MAF (multi sensor) has this. I have rechecked my wiring to the plug against a friends LT4 plug and have wired the same. The MAF sensor doesn't look like it took any damage, just the original plug, but could it be faulty? My connect and cruise package has a engine fuse box (mounted under seat), no blown fuses, but would think one fuse gone would cause more codes? Thoughts?

Found a broken wire just back from the plug. Re terminated. Whala!