Leaf and g BAR set up
 

If I decide to go with the Leaf spring set up with off set shackles and the DSE mini tubs, and later down the road change to a G BAR or Quad link what will have to be changed on the rear housing?

Iam doing the same thing (change to Qlink or G bar latter on)the only problem I have is I have to buy a narrowed tank to work with the off set shackles but I don't need it with the 4 links.
So in the long run its almost cheaper to buy one of the 4 links right of the bat.

mike a

Do you know if the perches are the same?

On the G bar the perches have to be in the stock location its direct bolt in.

The only modification you will need to make is welding 4 tabs on your housing.
The system is designed as a bolt-in deal other than those tabs, so nothing else will need to be changed. Check back in a few months, and we will have a system with a bolt-in Fab9.

I took the dive and ordered the G BAR.

This is the same information I got before I ordered my G-bar however, it's not accurate. This picture is from the instruction manual of the Air-bar.
The instructions tell you to use a 5/16" drill bit to make the holes, then use the provided self taping bolts to secure to the frame.

Attachment 8333

Your G-bar will come with two sets of instructions. One for Airbar and one for G-bar. The G-bar instructions tell you to weld that main bracket to the frame.
This contradicted everything I was told prior to purchasing the G-bar, I called chassisworks to find out which method to use.

I was told that the G-bar had to be welded to the frame. The screws are not enough to hold the suspension in place. When you mock up the new parts you will agree. A few screws are not enough to hold your rear suspension together.

I have a few welders in my garage so the welding didn't bother me. What did bother me was the fact that the unit comes powder coated and after you weld around the entire perimeter of the bracket the powder coating will be ruined.
You will have to remove any paint from your frame also. For those guys who's frames were previously powder coated, they will have to remove the paint from the frame area prior to welding.

I think you could eliminate the welding on the frame by drilling 1/2" holes, inserting sleeves and through bolting the bracket horizontally.

Other than the extra welding on your frame, you will be pleased with the simple installation and quality of the product. I would recommend it to anyone.

I hope this clears up the "simple welding issue" for everyone considering this product.

here is a link to the Air-bar instruction sheet: CLICK

Freddiecrouger; the information you posted was the very same info the sales guy at Alston's shop told me on the phone.
I learned the truth when I called tech support about the two different set of instructions.

Rich

The package was originally designed to be bolt in only but ChassisWorks services a more hardcore performance/drag racing crowd than AirRide as a rule. They`d like to see it welded in addition to the bolts to take a belt and suspenders approach and add some additional strength. Not a bad idea at all. Bolt in only should be fine for cruising and general street use but if you`ve got 750hp and a 6 speed by all means weld it in too. Mark SC&C

I guess the part I'm really confused about is mixing it with the mini Tub. the mini tub notches out a part of the frame. Is this anywhere close to where the G bar is mounted?

The DSE offset shackles moves the rear of the leafs toward the gas tank about 1-1/2" and they use the same under body mount in the front.

The G-bar also uses the original front mount however, the G-bar is only 1" in dia. The leafs are 3" or so inches wide. In theory, you should gain more clearance using the G-bar than the offset shackles.


Hope this helps.


Rich