Lateral-g Forums - Project "Drain Me Dry" Update

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Project "Drain Me Dry" Update

The car went to body work about 6 weeks ago and we are really close to welding metal. After the panels are welded up, the DSE mini tub kit goes in. We did find a major surprise on the passenger side sail panel as you can see in the pictures below. I'm trying to locate a quarter right now that I could use to patch it. If anyone has one laying around PLEASE let me know. I hate to buy a full quarter just for the patch, but I may have to. I should have more pictures in the next couple of weeks.

Chris

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...2391864_25.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...2391864_31.jpg

We've got a little work to do here where the quarter and the weatherstrip gutter meet. From what I hear, this is pretty typical on the repro 68 LH quarter.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...2391864_26.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...2391864_28.jpg

Here the surprise!!!

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...2391864_33.jpg

If the rust perforations are the only major rust problems on that panel, why not lead/bodysolder the repairs instead of trying to locate a 1/4 panel to cut up to repair it. I had similar problem with holes on my 1/4's where there had been a vinyl roof fitted at some time. It's far easier/quicker to lead/bodysolder the area & it'll be a permanent repair without the worry of rust re-occuring. Here's some pics of my repairs, hth:thumbsup:

more pics here https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=6340

My body man wanted to media blast the area, etch prime it, and then fill it with metal filler. He guarantees that it will hold, but I don't agree with him. The solder repair sounds like the perfect fix, but I'll have to see if he's comfortable with this type of repair. He's not from the "old school" and is probably not familiar with it.

If the area is sandblasted CLEAN then Duraglass or All Metal filler will be no problem for you. I understad your concern. As long as the rust spots aren't holes you will be OK.

Brent

When we restored the car 15 years ago, I had the luxury of getting the car to bare metal for the bodyman to do his part. I remember there being bondo in that area, but I didn't grind it out b/c I figured the bodyman would take care of it. Well he did, but he obviously didn't prep the metal correctly. He used All Metal filler and then bondo over that. After about a year, the pits started showing through. This is what I DON'T want to happen this time around. Looks like I've got two options...now which one? New metal or lead? Decisions decisions.

New metal is definatly gonna be the best result.

New metal will be easier to locate that someone to do the leadwork...lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyG

New metal will be easier to locate that someone to do the leadwork...lol

You're kidding right??:lol: :lol: Either way will be just as good to be honest, but it'd be far cheaper & quicker to lead it, plus in my opinion it'd be a better job as the pinholes & indents in the metal get filled with lead & bring the panel thickness back to where it should be. Plus with lead you do away with the need for bondo as a repair, just needing priming & maybe some stopper for any small surface defects.
The worry is that in cutting out a section of the 1/4 panel & stitching in a new section, firstly you have to locate a section of 1/4 panel & then, unless the weld is continuous/seam welded, (depending on how good your bodyman is) there maybe pinholes in the weld which could let moisture through, plus the heat generated by welding could warp or distort the panel requiring more bondo than you'd like to repair it. hth:thumbsup:

edit: to avoid excessive heat distortion, if you do decide to weld it, use a heat band or heat dissipation paste.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky67

I talked to Jack a little later on your problem. He has around 56 years experience in doing bodywork on cars. Jack was hesistant on on doing lead work on sail panel in this area. Anyway, he said that the best option is replace the quarter panel with a NOS quarter panel. Although, it is more expensive option. Just that it will take less work in fitting the NOS quarter panel to you car, compared to using a repro quarter panel. From the photos, it looks like you have some fitment problems with repro quarters.

Anyway, I planned to keep my car a number of years, since it is my first car that I bought in 1983. I don't mind spending a little more on quality NOS parts, as long it will last in the future.

Jeff

http://www.kodakgallery.com/67rscamaro

I was actually quite impressed with the fit of the repro panel. There's one area around the trunk gutter that needs a little work, but that's it. The photos you're seeing are of the new metal literally pulled out of the box and thrown on the car. The body man hasn't even started massaging the metal yet. I look for it to fit even better once he tweaks it a little. I can tell you that all the gaps line up exactly like the original. i had him take measurements on the rear glass area as well as the trunk gaps, and it matched the original exactly. Maybe I just got lucky with the panel I received.

I'll probably be buying a new quarter this week. I've contacted every resto shop and builder I know of trying to locate a patch, but it's not looking good. I guess I'll just have to pull out the old check book...again!

Chris