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Well here a chassis for a chevelle
This may be the route I will go if finances get better here soon....
http://roadstershop.com What have any of you all think about this? Blessings, |
I saw the orange car autocross pretty hard at the Run thru the hills event last week, It made it into the top 5 shootout. The car looked like it had a push in it, but that is probably more a tire stagger issue (too big on back) then anything. I could not say it is the best thing since sliced bread or not, but I have to say to perform like it did, it was not bad. Only based on what I saw, it looked like smaller rar tires may make a better balance, assuming you cannot put more front tire on it which I only ASSUME you cannot or it would seem they would have it on the test car.
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If the car is tight, regardless of tire sizes, basic chassis changes like a lower front spring rate, higher rear spring rate, less sway bar and raising the panhard bar would help, if not correct the problem. These are basic principles of race car chassis setups (not counting tire pressures, shock settings, etc), but they should also be the basics when setting up a street car.
I know this post doesn't add much to what the original thread was about, but the topic of tire sizes and understeer comes up from time to time and I wanted to add my two cents. |
Thier test car, running the subframe, was out a the Run Through The Hills autocross event and did VERY well. I think it was in the top 3, maybe even top two, times for cars on street tires (non-R-compound)
They also tested the car out here in CA at the El Toro Marine base. I can't release the numbers but the car did very good. I think it almost got a 1g on the skidpad. Again, on non-r-compound tires. Their chassis uses a lot of DSE parts including chuncks of thier hydoformed subframe. Anyways, it's a cool car and beat the snot out of it. lol http://picsorban.com/upload/coner.jpg |
In all honesty, you can get equal geometry improvements with bolt-on parts on your stock chassis for a LOT less money. The only real benefit I see over the right combination of bolt-ons is the added chassis rigidity.
The big rear tires are cool if you're not serious about road-racing/track days (which most of us aren't but if you are...), they will come up to temp much slower than the smaller fronts, effecting the balance of the car differently throughout the run... if it starts neutral, when the fronts get sticky it will go loose, then the fronts get too hot as the rears just start to get sticky and it goes tight. They also require running the springs/shocks further inboard negatively effecting the motion-ratios. Edit: ...should add the big tires may help on a tight course such as an autocross, but likely a hinderance on a big course. |
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I bet that thing weights 4,000 pounds.. |
One thing is for sure. As the day passed they were able to tune the push out or drive through it. I was not watching them to see if they tuned on it. But the car absolutly improved through the day. And yeah, it is probably damn heavy. As was the Air Ride Chevelle that won.
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I agree with Derek 100% . Not worth the money over modified stock.
I've also see the car in person, and I thought the front crossmember was too low to the ground, especially since that car really doesn't sit that low. I'd do an AME or keep stock. |
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Of course, with street tires, this is just about pointless. lol But if you're serious about competing (in sanctioned racing), nothing is left out of the equation. I still say that tire sizes differences from front to rear can be dialed in with the right chassis setup. |
they were out of the top 5 until they got to hot lap it 4-5 extra laps to knock the last 2-3 10ths off, at the end before the top 5, the car is cool and did well for a boat..
cool chassis, and they were nice guys too. |
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