Full float rearends
 

Does anyone know of any reason NOT to run a full float 9" style rear end in a street car? My 69 camaro is set up for road race/street and FF axles seem to be the best way to go. I don't think anyone makes a bolt in version, though, so I guess I'd have to weld on mounts for myself.

I cant think of one. Then again... I have been putting them into street cars for quite some time now.

Yes there is a bolt in version for the first Gen F-body. Its not your typical GN hub or wide five set-up... but it actually uses a bearing cartirdge from a late model GM chassis.

As for the perches, I am sure that they could be installed in the stock location... at the stock 4* angle... or, they could be left loose for the end user to set the angle to their peticular driveline package. Which is what I would recommend for most.

Chicane- who makes the rear you're talking about? I'd like to keep the 4 3/4" bolt circle and as close to stock width as possible. I think Moser makes something that may work, but not bolt in. I have no problem welding on the mounts myself if I need to. Thanks.

That would be me.

It starts off with a Ford Motorsport HD fabricated kit housing, 4130 tubes and 4340 (or 300M) axleshafts. It maintains the 4.75" bolt circle... as it utilizes the Corvette C5/6 wheel bearing cartridge.

The housing and axles can be made to fit any width, at the time of manufacture, and the leaf perches can be welded or left loose for the end user.

:willy: Moser :willy: ... now that is a scarry thought.

To All:

Are there a number of semi-floating rear ends Breaking Axles while being used in PT Cars?

Drag Racing with 800+ HP maybe.

I guess I'm not following why go to a full floating rear end for street or track use with <600 RWHP?

With a good housing from Strange or Moser and Quality 31 splined Axles, are you in danger of breaking an axle even on a road race track with our cars?

Even, "Hard" driving requires the driver to be smooth as not to disrupt the balance of the car.

Help me, what am I missing, other than getting one for the coolness factor?

Sincerely,

Ty O'Neal

Ty,

It's really only partially an axle strength issue. The horespower transmitting capability is not at all at issue. It has to do with the bending loads high "G" cornering exerts on the axle at the bearing. The Bearing (Bearings, there are 2) are much larger on the floater hopusing. This gives you the strength and longevity for those high speed, high "G" turns. It also gives you the benefit of changing center sections without having to pull the wheels off. (Assuming no center caps on the track) Pop the axle covers off, pull the axles and away you go. Circle track guys use floaters almost exclusively. Check Coleman, Stock Car Products, Winters, Franklin to name a few for applications. They can be made any length or offset. The down side is, I don't think anybody is making a street brake "Kit" for them at this point. Could be wrong. You will probably have to build your own "Kit". Hope this helps.

I'm going to pull the n00b card here and ask if someone can explain what a full float rear end is, vs. other types. I'm still learning here.

are these available already? and do you have pricing. I will be in the market for a rear for my nova in the coming months and you have my attn:

A full floater, is a rear end that has axles that only transmit torque, The lateral loads on the wheels are transmitted to the two conical roller barings on the Hub... much like spindle on a rwd car.. except the spindle i shollow.. and the axle protrudes thru it and connects the axle to the hub via a driveflange..

the idea is that since no bending losda are being put on the axle it can handle more HP for a given weight.. and is you should break an axle the wheel will stay on (and of course the fact that it olny requires pulling the axles out a couple of inches to change centersextion.... without removing the wheel, or calipers to remove the discs...
http://www.mittlerbros.com/images/20...mplete_kit.jpg
cool huh?

So essentially you have the wheel on a separate bearing that it freely rotates on, and the axle comes inside and spins it, but is not holding the wheel to the hub, correct? So the wheel isn't pulling on the drive axle at all. That is cool!