setting pinion angle for g-bar
 

Ok,, starting completely over on my suspension in the rear.. The guy that did has the pinion angle so far off, car shakes real bad at 70..

So, what is everyone running degree wise, and any helpful tips since i'm now doing this on my back in the garge..

Good news is, I got my double adjustable lower control arms finally finished, so getting the rear centered should be a lot easier now.

Read the post 4 below this one
 

Titled "pinion angle question"

Go to the link posted and all questions should be answered.

I know it helped me a lot!

if its vibrating, you need to point pinion down more, go in 1 to 1.5 degree increments, this is where the g bar stinks because the upper links are not double adjustable, they only have one adjustable end which means you need to pull link out, adjust re-install then check,
also does it vibrate under hard acceleration? or just cruising? if its just cruising its a driveshaft/wheel out of balance,
goodluck

I dont think its the driveshaft, didn't have problem before g-bar install.. and tires are the same as well..

I'm starting tonight since all prep is done.. let you know how it goes..

was just checking, try setting pinion angle, if under load you need more pinion angle, if just at cruise you need less.
with a 4 bar, if tranny points 4 down, set pinion at 2 down,, or just have difference 2 degrees

ok.. now i'm really confused..

so if the tranny is -5 degree at the yoke, I want to get the yoke on the rear at +3 degree to get -2?

sorry, if tranny is -5 you want rear to be -3 for a 2 degree difference as under load the pinion will want to come up, on a 4 bar is alot less then a leaf spring set up
if tranny is 5 down put rear at 3 down

Thank you.. after reading the other link I was so lost lol...

Thank you for simplfy..:bow: :bow: :thumbsup:

Does anybody make a turn buckle upper link for the G Bar? if not why? I'm thinking for strenth but I'm not sure.

not sure but a local fab shop or you could easily make some links up, just measure distance between mounting points and minus 3 inches, that gives you link length, then get rh,lh rod ends or even bushed ends. not rocket science, but would make life alot easier when making adjustments
strength?? no way there is nothing wrong with rod ends,bushed ends etc has nothing to do with strength it was easier to build and cheaper to the final user to make only one end adjustable.