Painless wiring problem?
 

Ive got a painless wiring harness on my 68 and ive been having a few problems with the alternator not putting out good current back to the battery at idle once the car gets hot. I went back into the instructions and noticed that wire #915 which goes to the output on the alternator is a 12 guage wire instead of the 10 guage the instructions have it labeled as. My theory is that as the car and that wire gets hot the wire is too small and builds up to much internal resistance to carry the sufficient current. Does anyone have any advice or know what i may be able to do to fix this problem?

I noticed that the wire looked a little small when I installed my harness so I ended up running a seperate wire on mine back along the frame to the battery in the trunk. At first I had the alternator wired as a one-wire setup, but changed it and used the wiring harness wire as the sensing wire for the alternator. Seems to help a little, but I still get some gauge bouncing when I have the headlights on, driving lights on, turn signal going, high amp fuel pump running, etc... I might go back and clean it up some by running the heavier wire through the bulkhead and back to the battery through the inside of the car.

Yea i get the same bouncing on my voltmeter when the blinkers on, i did run an 8 guage wire from my positive battery post to the output of the alternator and that helped some, but i was just curious if there was a better fix for it that anyone had come up with

I didn't use the wire that was supplied in my AAW kit, and used a #4 battery cable instead, works perfect. Mine is set up as 1 wire.

Jody

Make sure you have a good ground strap as well. I have my negative battery cable and my body strap grounded on the bell housing.

I checked my ground straps and their good and tight on the block down by the fuel pump