335'S Cutting the wheels well, FRANK?
 

OK a few last minutes things before paint. I will be putting 335's on the rear with DSE mini Tub and narrowed rear. Frank advised me to cut the upper wheel well about a 1/2 inch. Should I cut it clean or do I need to roll the lip?
I was thinking I did not need to cut anything for 335's but I want to do what ever before paint. I'm just concerned about the spot welds. How much will a rear axle really travel? Thanks Frank if you get this.

Can you still see the spot welds? How much can you cut before you get into the welds?

I wouldn't think you would need to trim them much if at all...but since you don't have your wheels yet it might be a good idea!

It should only be around a 1/2 inch. I'm just not sure if I should roll the edge or cut it staight. I really don't want to roll it and take a chance cracking the primer or body work.

I borrowed a friends eastwood lip roller and rolled mine after it was painted.didnt hurt anything

It varies a little per car. I'm going through all these scenarios right now, as well. What size rim are you going with? I believe Frank told me the 335 on a 12" rim has a section width of 13.5" and on an 11.5" rim it has a section width of 13.2". I've heard to trim anywhere from 1/4" to 1/2", but it's better to cut a little too much than not enough, of course...especially before paint. I have the same question. I have repro quarters, so the factory spot welds are history and it's hard to tell the plug weld after is has been ground.

My car measures 14-1/8" from the inner DSE tub to the quarter lip at the 12o'clock position.

i would trim it 1/4 to 1/2 then roll at least from 10 o clock to 2 o clock as that is where it will rub, but if you have gone this far with the details in your car, i would roll the entire lip and body work it so it looks custom, not just a rolled lip
bodywork is alot easier now then blending in basecoat and re clearing back half of car.
goodluck
when doing a full build, i like to cut all but 1/4 inch of it, thenn form 3/16 round stock to wheel well and weld in, looks super, easy to weld and metal work and way cleaner then just rolling lip.

I'm picking up a lip roller today. is the metal going to be to thick to roll where the 1/4 and outer wheel well meet?

yeah its thick, tony rapin just did his with jodys roller, he posted pics so you can see what it will look like.

No need to roll if you trim though. The outer wheel house is you first interference if you trim the lip to 1/2" or so. As for mounting your wheel well moulding, same problem weather you tim or roll, you still going to be relocating the top WW molding screw.

On 69s especially, because of the squareness of the wheel openiing, I have had outer panel damage trying to roll the lip. A 67 / 68 is much rounder and much more freindly to roll. If you try to roll instead of trim, you will need to relieve it at 10 and 2, then your going to have a ****ty looking tranasition, but I guess no one would see it.

If it were me I would trim, if you cut out the spot weld you could do a couple quick stitch weld on the inner / outer edge with a water rag on the outer panel. Maybe less chance of damage then rolling

I just went in the garage and poped you a quick pic showing exactly what I was telling you. 10 - 2 trim to 1/2". This is with a 345 / 30 / 19, it dont come no bigger or ride height no lower. Tire look fine to me.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...s/DSC00175.jpg

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u.../RTTHIV092.jpg

where is the post, I tried a search under Trapin