Something for all the Gbody guys diagram/drawing
 

I have been searching the net to make rhym or reason of the various braces they put on Gbodys.

They vary from none on the Malibu up to GNX only bushing/braces.

I got some line drawings and added the "stock" braces as well as a few "aftermarket" ones.

Short of boxing the frame, these do a real good job.

I can tell you adding them changes the car in dramatic ways.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...979frame-2.png

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...yofAAAAAAA.jpg


Last an overlay of the two.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ofAAAAAAAA.jpg

Are these all bushings/braces that you have added? Can you give a little more in depth description of the +/- to adding these.

It's all factory stuff that was available on all the different g-body cars, with the exception of the "yellow" bar that ties the rear of the frame.

I understand they are all factory, he said they change the car in a dramatic way. I'm more curious as to what adding (A) or not adding (A) will do for the car itself and so on. The benefits of adding each brace/bushing as opposed to not adding them or having them at all.

The frames on these cars are wet noodles with the ends floating in space.

I have a few gbodys.

On my driver 83 Malibu Wagon, the front triangulation braces, fender to rad and radiator X brace were all installed at the same time.

It drove like a different car, with the slightest turn of the wheel,it turned. Had a solid feel.

The frame flexes where the steering box mounts , these stopped this.

It also had severe wheel hop problem.

Later installed the rear poly bushings and Class II trailer hitch, stopped 95% of it.

Again felt more solid and my back glass/tailgate rattles all but went away.

Have since added no-hop bars,she just hooks and goes now.

I can hit "35 MPH turns" at almost double that.

I just found the "GP" brace and long cowl to rad braces which will be being added as soon as they arrive.

On my 78 Cutlass race car, I did some testing while apart.

The frame/body tub was put on jackstands, measured various point, removed one jackstand , loaded with 250# of weight (ME) the frame and measured flex.

I added various braces and redid the whole procedure. Some areas the flex was cut by more then 1/2.

This car leaves wheels up (1.40z 60 ft) and straight. Goes 10.00 at 131 mph on what is more or less a "stock suspension".

So far I have found no downside for either a street/handling car or a drag car.

Whew, hope that helps.

Nice. Thank you very much for the diagram w/dimensions & sharing the knowledge you have gained during your builds.

Its all common things most g body owners do to there cars to make them handle better.Pretty much most of it you can pick up at junkyards or order online.

Great post... i can presonally highly recomend boxed frame and solid bushings...

i havent done the GNX rear seat brace and fender struts yet...

Another G-Body thing to remember is that many of the differing models had aluminum panels. Bring a magnet to the salvage yard and you might end up with an aluminum hood, core support, fenders, or trunk lid.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

I just did the GP brace install , painted the jounce bars while they were out. Went a little wild on the color!

It does help.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...2308_0_BG1.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...2308_0_BG1.jpg

Good tip on the aluminum parts.

I put an aluminum rad support in my Cutlass along with aluminum drums.Was thinking of an aluminum hood but did not want to cut up such a rare factory piece for a scoop.

I pulled the radiator X braces off a Grand Am and they were aluminum, only pair I ever saw that was not steel. They reside on my Wagon now.