Does this look right - dialing in scattershield
 

I know I had another thread started, but wasn't sure if anyone would look at it so I started another one. Just wanted to make sure this looks right. Unfortunately I my scattershield didn't have all the nuts with it so I have to wait until the morning to get them and tighten everything down. I got the dial indicator and base mounted and it looks to me like it will do the job. Hopefully I have it right. From this point what I understand is I need to zero the indicator, turn the engine to the 4 marks (every 90 degress) and get the readings. My dial indicator reads in 0.001 so what would be my acceptable readings?? Any advice would be great. For those that are also in this situation, once I have it all figured out, I will post a thread on how to do it with lots of pics. Thanks in advance.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/PICT0103.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT01082.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/PICT0104.jpg

You may have trouble with that much angle and the paint on the surface. All you need to be concerned with is your high and low spot. Find either your high or low spot and 0 the indicator, now rotate it around until you find the opposite of your high or low. That number divided in half is your runout. Anything under .005 is good. I had to use offset dowels and was able to achieve .0055 and said close enough!

I agree you need the indicator close to straight on with the hole. That much angle will give a false reading.

It would be easier with an indicator like these.

http://www.starrett.com/download/260_p139_145.pdf

I got the rest of the hardware I need to secure the scattershield. Once everything was tight, I was able to adjust the dial indicator to get it as flat as possible. I took two sets readings as I've seen it explained both ways. Doing it the way you mentioned Todd, my high point was 0.045 and the opposite was around .007, so giving me a difference of 0.038.

When I did it the other way, while looking at the scattershield my quarter readings were: .010 at 3 o'clock, 0.041 at 6 o'clock and 0.031 at 9 0'clock. The highest reading was at about 7 o'clock or so.

Now that I know I need new dowels, which sizes would you recommend? Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it.

Hope this looks right:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT01092.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../PICT01102.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/PICT0114.jpg

.019.......................+or- 2

Thanks for the help Todd. I just ordered some .21 dowels. The next ones down were 0.14. Hopefully I can get this done next week and get it ready to drop in the subframe. Thanks again.

Is that a Lakewood bellhousing?

You're on the right track. And people often skip this step - at their own expense.

I once had a guy 'help me' on this - he talked a good game - so I set him off in the corner to work while I did some floor mods... Well - I'm inside the hollow body - cutting etc - when I finish up and stop for a minute... I hear this moron banging on stuff and cussing - so I figure I better see what's up.

Well - he's jammed the offsets in the aluminum block - no anti seize etc - and they're in there HARD - and he's galled the aluminum now - and can't turn them with a screwdriver - so now he's got "water pump pliers" on 'em - and man - they're a mess... as in "extract and toss".

He hasn't been asked to help any more.

My rule is - if it doesn't fit or isn't working like it should - then stop and figure out why... Hammers are for carpenters. :>)

Scott - sure looks to be the right color for a Lakewood...