Tire gap to lip/inner tub
 

So my Rushforth Rated X arrived!!!!! Pix and updates to follow real soon....

I got them all mounted, and am getting everything mocked up to measure for the Dana 60...... Frank I hope to be giving you a call this week to order :)

So getting the rear wheel all centered in the back.....whats the recommended gap from tire to inner tub? and to the lip?

I havent rolled or cut my outer wheelhouse lip, and as of right now I may not need to. It looks like I have plenty of vertical height to sink the wheel deep into the tub and not have to have it far inside of the lip

I seem to remember someone saying they recommend 3/4- 1 inch... does that sound about right?

That way as you go up an uneven surfaces and one end of the rear goes up, the top of the tire doesnt arc inward and hit the tub.

So all you "Wheel and tire experts" and pro-shop fab guys....when you do the mock up, what do you shoot for?

With leaf springs you want 3/4" on either side of the tire. 4 link can run closer to 1/2". Make sure when you measure you have the toe set on the tires. measure the front and rear of the tires and make sure they are square to one another.

Ned, what size did you go with? 12's, and are you running 4 link or leafs in your set up?

Now there is a new measurement for me. The toe on a live axle. I never thought of checking toe for a solid axle housing. If its off how do you correct it? Im gonna check mine now that it sounds like a possible adjustment. If is off how do I correct it? Learning every day. I love this site!!! JR

I went with 20x12 in the rear and 19x8 up front....

Air Ride parallel 4 link.....but we "Customized" some of the brackets to get the ride height I wanted....

And yes I made sure the wheels were square to each other....no toe in or out :)

Frank is right on. Actually this is something everyone should do. If you do alot of welding on the tubes to mount brackets, it is not uncommon to warp a tube. You should check the "toe" as well as "camber". If you do have a problem, I recommend taking it to a rear end shop and they can straighten it in a number of ways. Press, heat and quench or in some extreme cases they may have to cut the ends off the tube and re-weld them in alignment. I have seen this hundreds of times while I was racing. It turns up when trying to do an alignment on the race cars only to find out you can't get everything square. This issue is usually the culprit. I was actually going to start a thread on this some time ago and then forgot. I see alot of people welding brackets to rear ends and then just installing them. I hope they are checking them before they move on. Just my 1.5 cents! You guys are building some sweet machines. Keep up the good work. :thumbsup:

theres a book out there that tells you where to apply heat to get a rear back in spec, but i just took mine to currie and they shortened it and put new 9" ends on my 12 bolt.

are your 20 x 12's 3 piece?

my plan was 1/2" on the inside and 1/4" on the outside since the axle cant get any longer but can get shorter in its movement. so all i am accounting for is lateral movement on the outside. there shouldnt be a lot with my watts. also, this is at full compression. there is a little more at ride height.

Tim

Great point. For some reason I was just picturing a stock axle housing that wasnt being modified. I was stuck on stupid. Happens to me alot, I prolly should re-boot the operating system more often :) Wish I had a simple button like my computer. But I still rely on shock treatments to re-boot the brain. Painful man!!! Ok, going to re-boot. Dont smell the smoke, its pretty bad. ZAP!!! JR

No, problem at all. I am in the same boat everyday. There are so many things to take into account building these cars. That is why this site is so awesome. There is alot of experience on these pages. I learn something every time I visit. Back on point!

I also agree with Frank's recommendation. We have a triangulated 4-link and we are shooting for 1/2". :lateral:

talked to jon today, and his numbers are 3/8 outside and 3/4 inside.