POR 15 question?
 

I just ordered the floor pan kit. I'am wondering how effective this stuff is? I have some pin hole rust spots on the driver and passenger toe board that i want to paint over with this stuff. Also is there any prep work that needs to be done such as grinding or sanding?

If you use it on bare 'clean' metal you need to use the marine clean and metal ready (I think its a zinc coating or something) and it will stick fine. If it is used on bare metal without the proper prep it will not stick well at all. On rust you just need to remove the scaly loose stuff. Also, if you use the flatter black, its inconsistant and you may end up with shiny and duller spots. I painted my entire cage with it after cleaning and prepping and it stuck great. After masking the whole cage off I had one tiny piece flake off. I must have missed a spot. Someone else painted over some paint around my back window and half of all the paint in that area peeled offf on the tape.
I would take the time to read the directions and you will be fine. If your not sure call them. I did. :cheers:

Also don't do it if its too humid. It actually dries faster with humidity and won't level out as well.

I'd stay away from using that junk, use Rust Bullet

I looked into that but I think you have to have a sprayer and i don't have a compressor.

Well on the web site and the floor pan kit comes with like 3 different coatings I think the marine stuff is included.

I've used it on my nova, works great and is rock hard. I tried chipping at it with a screwdriver, and it scratched it, but did not chip off, good stuff imo.

I used Rust Bullet in some areas behind the quarters and brushed it on. Doesn't have to be sprayed. Went on great. If I recall they say 2-3 coats gets the proper thickness. I like Rust Bullet better myself.

you can brush it on,but that would not be my choice for application of any material on any car I'm working on

Ya its just junk when applied via a 10c foam brush :lol:

Por-15 + Chevy Orange engine block kit:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...Engine001z.jpg

Por-15 + Chassis black on brand new trans case:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ssion016sm.jpg

Por-15 + Chassis black on brand new rear axle housing:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension017.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension018.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension021.jpg

Por-15 + Chassis black on heater box:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ension015e.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ension015f.jpg

And again Por-15 + Chassis black:
Before:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension004.jpg

After:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...pension020.jpg

Its only junk if you don't do the prep right. And yes the prep is killer but like all things you get out of it what you put into it. I can hammer, and wipe down with Lacquer thinner any of those surfaces, try that with anything else short of powder coat.

I am planning on doing my floors too and I'll use the same 10c foam brushes from OSH to do so with Por-15 + Chassis black.

As far as the prep goes, get as much as possible off down to bare metal if you can. Get the metal as clean as you can, use Marine Clean then Metal ready, then apply Por-15. I can't stress "as clean as possible" enough. Repeat cleaning steps at least 2-3 times to make sure you have a clean surface. Even the slightest oil and Por-15 won't stick / bond.

If POR-15 is junk -- I sure wish someone would come get that junk off my concrete floor 'cause I can't!! :rofl: