LS7 427 or ZL1 427??
 

I am at a crossroads of sorts with what to do about the power plant my 69 Camaro. As I get closer to completion on the bodywork, the last piece of the puzzle, the motor, needs to be addressed. I have a carb'd stock 396 in the car currently. I have been debating about going to a new GM ZL-1 based 489 or go to a MAST Motorsports LS7 swap. The ZL-1 would be a straight change over for me into my current set-up. The LS7 would need more supporting mods to make it a viable choice. Both would be around the same hp. Any input?

Ls Ls Ls Ls!!!!

ls7!!:thumbsup:

Paul

I have several ZL1's and they are cool but if you want to really enjoy your car go thru the extra trouble and switch over to LS. No more overheating, better mileage, no oil leaks and on and on and on.

No way would I consider a big block for any application under 650HP. I say 650 Hp because once you cross that HP threshold, you get into aftermarket LS blacks / heads, and at that point things get expensive. Under 650HP, I would do a LS motor but would not mess with the dry sump LS7. For a LOT less money you can do a wet sump LS3 based motor, make the same power and save a ton of plumbing and expense. For just the cost of the LS7 engine you can do a wet sum based 600HP motor including all the goodies needed to install it and make it run.

I love old school but If I was to do it again It would be LS all the way.

I agree with Frank, save a boat load of cash and do a simple Ls3 setup and spend the money elsewhere.

My ZL-1 doesn't leak or overheat. I'd like to inject mine someday. Not sure that will happen as I'm tired of spending money on my car. I'd rather spend money using it.

The real question comes down to what you intend to do with the car and what suits your budget and taste.

Thanks Frank,
That's exactly what MAST Motorsports does with their LS7 427SS package. They convert to a wet sump to simplify the swap.

http://www.mastmotorsports.com/2010/...ew.php?cat=Hot Rod Muscle Car Handbuilt N/A&id=79

LS7 427 SS 650HP
Specs:
Type: LS7 7.0L
Displacement: 427 Cubic Inches
Compression Ratio: 11.4:1
Bore x Stroke: 4.125 x 4.000
Rev Limit: 7250 RPM
Crank: Callies Forged
Rods: Callies H-Beam
Pistons: Mahle Motorsports
Cam: Mast Custom 3-Bolt Core Cam
Heads: Mast CNC LS7 Heads
Intake: GMPP LS7 Intake
Valve Springs: Mast Premium Nitrided Dual Springs
LS7 Aluminum Block
Plateau Honed to 4.125
True Surfaced Deck
Engine Block Debured
Blueprinted Shortblock
ACL Rod and Crank Bearings
Callies Forged 4.000” Stroked Crankshaft
Callies Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods
Custom Mahle Motorsports Pistons
Mast Motorsports CNC LS7 Cylinder Heads
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Main Studs
Cometic Headgaskets
Mast 3 bolt Core Custom Hydraulic Roller Cam
GMPP Cadillac Hydraulic Roller Lifters
Mast Black Label Pushrods
Mast Premium Nitrided Dual Springs
Mast Hollow Stem Intake Valves
Mast Exhaust Valves
Titanium Retainers
Machined Locks
M-90 Calibrated ECM
Main Wiring Harness
Dash Harness
Air Mass Harness
Trans Harness
EGO Harness
Bosch EGO Sensor
Fuel Pump Harness
Fan Harness
LS7 Intake Manifold
GM 2010’ 90mm DBW Throttle Body
Bosch Dead Headed Fuel Rail
Bosch LS7 Fuel Injectors
Mast 8 Layer Air Filter with IAT Bung
Intake Air Temperature Sensor 560-2218 | info@
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor
Oil Pressure Sensor
Oil Temperature Sensor
Engine Coolant Temperature
Engine Knock Sensors
Manifold Air Pressure Sensor
Ignition Coils
Spark Plugs
Plug Wires
GM Foot Pedal
GM Starter
GM Oil Filter
Mobile 1 Synthetic Oil
Engine Break in Oil Additive
Your choice of F-Body, Y-Body, or Truck Water Pump,
Balancer, and Oil Pan
Runs on Premium 91-93 Octane

If you want to go al bbc, why not get the Brodix block?

It appears it will more easily support extra cubic inches . At least go 540 if you're going to buy a rotating assembly anyways.

Weight, the brodix block is 60-70lbs heavier.