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-   -   Sanded engine bay to bare metal, what primer? (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=30469)

baggins 01-29-2011 09:48 PM

Sanded engine bay to bare metal, what primer?
 
Like the title says the engine bay is down to bare metal and I am wondering what the best thing that comes in an aerosol can is to put on it and the fenderwells? Thanks Nick

elitecustombody 01-29-2011 10:20 PM

Why strip it all the way down to metal only to spray it with rattle can? Buy some epoxy primer if you don't want to deal with rust,paint peeling,chips,e.t.c. down the road

baggins 01-31-2011 01:31 AM

i was hoping to just do an aerosol can primer for now then do the entire car all together down the road, will the spray primer not seal it for now?

elitecustombody 01-31-2011 07:50 AM

I use GBP 988 on small stuff,it's good product

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/pr...fm?product=988

cacwyo 02-06-2011 03:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baggins (Post 329937)
i was hoping to just do an aerosol can primer for now then do the entire car all together down the road, will the spray primer not seal it for now?


Primers do not seal moisture out unless it is a type of epoxy primer, which in most cases will help seal out moisture but is not permanent as it will break down over time. I would recommend if your wanting to go a cheap route, just using a chassis black paint which is usually a epoxy formula.

But...keep in mind, the for the absolute "best" results, if you start with a bare area of metal, use an etch primer, then an epoxy then your top coat. So unless you want to re-sand everything 2 times, just spend the money to take care of it the first time around :thumbsup:

Jon Clough 02-22-2011 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cacwyo (Post 331095)
Primers do not seal moisture out unless it is a type of epoxy primer, which in most cases will help seal out moisture but is not permanent as it will break down over time. I would recommend if your wanting to go a cheap route, just using a chassis black paint which is usually a epoxy formula.

But...keep in mind, the for the absolute "best" results, if you start with a bare area of metal, use an etch primer, then an epoxy then your top coat. So unless you want to re-sand everything 2 times, just spend the money to take care of it the first time around :thumbsup:

I second the use of an etch primer over bare steel, if you don't the paint may come off.

64skylarkls1 03-07-2011 09:21 PM

I second the need for rattle can help!
 
Does the etch primer require that all paint be removed before using it? I'm doing and LS swap and am in the middle of cleaning up the firewall and blocking off the heater opening. I'm thinking of smoothing the firewall too - sanding - a little body filler? So there will be some bare metal but not all.

Is the etching primer still the way to go? Is it sandable? What brands? What is the best final coat? I don't want gloss.

Thanks to all.

TheCntrion 03-13-2011 10:05 PM

Doesn't por 15 have a satin black? You can brush that on and it seems not to look like you brushed it.

64impala 04-08-2011 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheCntrion (Post 338014)
Doesn't por 15 have a satin black? You can brush that on and it seems not to look like you brushed it.

I recommend KBS Rust Seal. Amazing product....but you must follow there prep process. Amazing on suspension parts, floor pans, ect.


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