4 -link Chassis For Pro Touring Use?
 

Hello to all i am new to this site , I currently own a 67 camao that i built 2 years ago ,it is a pro street car using chris alstons pro street urethane rod end 4 -link with a lower track locator bar is it possible to convert this car to a pro touring car? Also the car is using a 540 bbc and a turbo 400 with manual steering and manual disc/ drum brake set up . The car is tied together using sub frame connectors and a 10 point cage with the x -bracing . Tire size are 31x16.5 and the frame outsiside to outside is 30'', if this can be done i would have to replace the rear quarterpanels since i have stretched those 3 1/2 " . Thankyou for your time and advice to all

I think you would get some more responses if you had some pictures of what you are working with. Also knowing what you are going to use for wheels and tires in the future will help in regards to the clearance questions. I am by no means a suspension engineer but from what little I know it seems that 4-links of that type tend to bind very easily. This can be fixed a little bit by switching to a spherical type rod end. Now the problem with these are that they tend to rattle when they get worn. I have never experienced this but I hear that it is quite irritating. Another option is to use some of the new hybrid bushing that have a metal ball in the center but then have retaining race that is made out of an absorbent material such as delrin. A lot of guys run these and they are made by a variety of companies. Just to name a few roto-joints, del-sphere, and johnny joints. Take a look around and use the search bar there are plenty of guys that have made these types of 4-links work just dont expect to hang with the best on the autocross course

Ditto on posting pictures. A picture is worth a thousand words. :thumbsup: Pictures are worth even more. :unibrow:

There are a few companies that make 4 link kits, depends on what mods have already been made. Depends on how much you want to modify, or will need to put back into the car after Chassis Works Drag 4-link is removed. A few others are using 3 link / torque arm set ups, seem to do just as good as 4-links. Most mods are limited to the back seat area of the car. Tubs might impact your install. Got mini-tubs or full tubs? Or plans to install them?

Wouldn't be a bad idea to see the cage set up too, might impact the install, depending on the bracing behind the back seat, or near the front spring hangar/perch area.

Pics On Car
 

HERE ARE SOME PICS OF THE CAR

I will second the roto-joint/johnny joint option as a way to reduce bind and to increase articulation on road race /autoX designed suspensions,but If I'm not mistaken the 4link suspension you are currently using already uses heim joints(or as some would call them)rod ends.The bind issues you will run into are a result of the design of the suspension itself.It was designed to put the most traction to the ground in a straight line and lend itself to some adjustability for different track conditions among other things.It was never designed to work well around corners and in directional transitions.You may be able to use some of your brackets and /or shock mounts ,but it is very likely that it will have to be repositioned on your rearend housing as you have narrowed the rearend by the looks of the pics.You'll likely have to do a lot of looking for places where the two different styles of suspension have an impact on such as was said previously.