Current draw and alternator charging problem
 

Hello guys

I need help to resolve the issue with the current draw and the alternator that seems to be not charging.

My new red top optima battery dies if the car is not driven for a few days. I checked for a current draw using a multimeter, and there was a current draw of 0.12 amp. The reading dropped to zero when I pulled the horn relay from the Painless Wiring fuse panel. The horn relay was tested later and found OK. I wonder what else can cause this current if the horn relay is good?

The other problem is that the alternator (1 wire alternator) is not charging the battery. I am ruling the battery problem out as it is always hooked up to a CTEK charger. The voltage is 12.6 when the engine is not running. According to Optima the maximum voltage on Red Top Batteries is 12.85V. With the engine running, the voltage barely increases to reach 13V and it drops to below 12.6V reaching 12.2V when the engine reaches operating temperature. The voltage reached even below 12V when the alternator was on load, AC running and headlights on. At 2000rpm, the voltage on the multimeter was fluctuating between 12.7 and 13.01V. Also, the turn signals blink for a few mintues then stop blinking.

Is this an indication of a bad alternator or is it the ECU that is not giving a command to the alternator to charge the battery? The alternator is off a 2002 C5 corvette. The plug connector at the alternator has 3 wires,one of which is connected.

Guys your input is highly appreciated.

I can't speak to the altenator issue but I am finishing a 73 Z28 L92 install and had a problem with the blinker/hazard flashers.

Using a Painless 18 circuit universal GM column kit any time I hit the blinker switch or the hazard push pull it would blink 2-3 times and then blow the fuse. I've used the Painless kit on other vehicles and no problems.

Checked everything. Replaced turn signal switch. Replaced all sockets after talking to Painless. Had my side cutters in hand so I could pull out the kit and replace with another new kit. Thought what could it be? I unbolted the fuse block from the fire wall and tried the blinkers and volla it worked perfectly. I can only guess with the mass of wires coming out the back of the fuse block was stressing the wires creating a slight separation or restaistance so the the fuse would blow. I made two 1 inch spacers that moved the fuse block away from the firewall. Works great.

I'm by no means an electrical guy just basic understanding of all things electrical.

I'm using the computer to "excite" the alternator per my Howell harness. And then a 8 guage wire from the starter terminal to the stud on the alternator.

Hope this helps a little.

The turn signals blinking is what scares me? I dont know what that is. Ditch the one wire alternator, self exciting alternators are terrible all around, the regulators cant sense battery voltage and dont react properly. As to the current draw you have none at all with the horn relay pulled? This is odd, every car has some, if your ammeter has a high enough resolution to catch it. Back to the known draw, what kind of relay is it? 4 prong?

Actually it is a 3 wire alternator that was converted by some idiot to a 1 wire alternator. The relay is 4 prong that supplied by the painless wiring circuit. I know it is odd that there is no zero draw when the relay was pulled. Unfortunately I am not an electrical guy to conduct further diagnosis.

I believe I am having the same set up as yours, the thick wire from the alternator stud goes to the starter, and the 1 wire is connected to the Painless brown wire, which could be connected to the ECU..